Lesetipp: Hymne auf den britischen Herrenschneider Anderson & Sheppard

Für die Vanity Fair hat David Kamp eine Hymne auf den britischen Herrenschneider Anderson & Sheppard geschrieben. Gentlemen wie Fred Astaire, Cary Grant, Baron Guy de Rothschild und Prince Charles, aber auch die Designer Calvin Klein, Tom Ford und Malono Blahnik ließen und lassen sich bei dem Londoner Ausstatter einkleiden.

Kamp schreibt über die Geschichte des Traditionshauses:

“The natural look. The sloped shoulder. The limp silhouette. The English drape. What to make of these curious phrases, all reliably used to describe the Anderson & Sheppard style? To the uninitiated, these words might suggest lightness and grace, but then again, they might suggest a strange clientele of invertebrates. Why the unrelenting emphasis on softness? To answer this question, it helps to know what the fledgling firm was rebelling against in its early decades.

Yes, rebelling. “Establishment” as Anderson & Sheppard is now thought to be, it was once the renegade of Savile Row. Its sign pointedly identified the firm as CIVIL TAILORS. For civilians, not the military—not the place to go for clothes that would cinch you up and make you stand at attention.

This was something of a radical stance in 1913, the year the young firm left its original space, in Sackville Street, and took its first address on Savile Row, at No. 13. At the foot of the Row, at No. 1, stood Hawkes & Co., military tailors of long standing. Just atop the Row, in Conduit Street, was J. Dege & Sons, uniformers of the cavalry. At Nos. 36–39 stood the firm credited as the first to establish Savile Row’s reputation as a bespoke mecca, Henry Poole & Co., which specialized not only in military tailoring but also in livery and court dress.”

Seinen schönen, langen Artikel schließt Kamp mit einem Zitat:

“Many years ago, Charles Bryant, Anderson & Sheppard’s managing director in the 60s and 70s, gave a rare interview to a newspaper. He declared that the company’s style is calibrated precisely for men who wish “to look right without giving the appearance of having studied their clothes.” Elaborating on this thought, Mr. Bryant summarized his philosophy, one that remains as much Anderson & Sheppard’s today as it was more than a century ago: “The minute a man is overdressed, he is badly dressed.””

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Bild: vanityfair.com

Von: Carl Jakob Haupt