Natürlich habe ich neulich den neuen JAMES BOND-Film gesehen. Und natürlich fand ich ihn – obwohl offensichtlich ein unglaublich erotisches Bond-Girl vergessen wurde – total gut.
Und wie das nunmal so ist, wenn man einen actionreichen Film mit einem sehr männlichen Hauptdarsteller sieht: man möchte all das auch können.
Damit, wenn man das dann alles irgendwann mal kann, der maßgeschneiderte Anzug aber auch in jeder noch so wilden Situation (Motorrad-fahren, Pistole-schießen, Asiatinnen-anmachen) immerzu perfekt sitzt, muss man einige Regeln befolgen.
Welche das sind, hat der Brooklyner Maßschneider Peter Frew im Interview mit VULTURE erklärt:
Have you ever had a customer who wanted a suit he could ride a motorcycle in?
Yeah. Usually, I recommend a little fuller in the back. Not overly full but just a little more room than normal. Armholes: really high. Buttons: high. And the sleeves are a little bit more full.
Why is that?
It comes with movement — you have to bend over and lean forward, so you have to give as much comfort as possible in the back.
How would you tailor a suit or tuxedo to make it fighting -ready?
Armholes would be high. That’s the key thing — armholes have to be high. The shoulders have to be natural, so as little shoulder pad as possible. Small armhole, but the sleeve has to be a little bit fuller, so you’re able to just raise your arms up. Also, it has to be the correct width for the arm. It shouldn’t be too wide or too close. There’s no general rule on how it should be – it depends on the customer’s arm.
And what about if someone needed to be able to kick. What alterations would need to be made?
Oh, they would definitely have to be comfortable wearing their trousers really high. Because if you’re wearing a low-cut trouser, then you’d have to wear a fuller cut in order to have that comfort. But if you want to wear a nice, skinny trouser, a slim-fitting trouser, then you have to be comfortable wearing your crotch high. Pretty much, the key for that kind of movement is the crotch. Like, the jacket would be the armhole, for the trouser it would be the crotch.
So you’re saying it needs to be higher up?
Yeah, I mean, not giving him a wedgie [laughs] but it should be high enough, you know, just touching your person.
Das gesamte Interview gibt es hier.
Von: Carl Jakob Haupt