PHILIPP PLEIN is one of the most successful German designers. This says a lot about Germany. In this country, a lack of style is celebrated.
If designers like GUIDO MARIA KRETSCHMER, HARALD GLÖÖCKLER or PLEIN, are seen as the best-known German designers, something is definitely wrong. One can even understand Lagerfeld (famous exception), who does not want to be seen as a ‘German’ anymore.
PHILLIP PLEINs first fashionable hit was an old military jacket, decorated with Svarovski-stones. Only thinking about this jacket makes me sick. It was a big hit in the swells of Munich. Nothing more to add.
Since his first selling success, a few years have passed. But PHILIPP PLEIN always stayed true to his style, or more so his lack of it. Work-wise and private:
PLEIN still puts kilos of studs and Svarovski-stones on his creations, got a tattoo of his own name on his right arm – and his son got punished with the name Romeo Prince.
PHILIPP PLEINs fashion would fit very well to the Berlin fashion week. But he decided not to show in the ‘glamorous tent’ with it’s ‘competent’ audience. PLEIN is showing in Milan. Also that fits, somehow. Because also in Milan a lack of perspectives and style rules. No young, talented fashion designers close. And – besides Prada – only bullshit on the schedule.
That is where Philipp feels comfortable, between DOLCE & GABBANA, ARMANI and the Canadian-siamese twins. He throws around with diamonds and is trying season after season to top himself with losses of style.
One time he sent male models with weapons (generally OK) on the runway, with written-on chests saying ‘only kill for real love’ and ‘life’s a game and it’s not fair’ (what?!?!) . Or – even worse – Plein is acting as a moralizer:
for his SS 2014 show he only hired black models. His ‘show’ was called ‘ONLY BLACK’. The room-taking video-installations showed the slogan ‘SHE’S BLACK’ and the recordings of a wild cat. A circus-like scenario. Is this a serious try to stand for more diversity in the fashion-industry? Not so much.
But if you think about it, Doc Plein(lich) is not the worst, but the German media, who is hyping him. Because they don’t know it better. Or simply don’t want to loose their advertiser Plein.
Von: David Kurt Karl Roth