Till now, the American label hasn’t been present in the street where Prince Charles, Winston Churchill, Napoleon and probably every stylish Englishman bought their suits.
According to the British Vogue, city government has already spoken out against the establishment of A&F:
“Savile Row has a unique character — currently there are no high-street chains present (…). A management plan should be put in place to ensure this character is retained.”
To see half-naked A&F sellers, teenage-girls taking cell-phone pictures, and even louder screaming fags, in the “Golden Mile of Tailoring” would be a terrible stylistic inconsistency. Still, we can’t consider the management plan against new high-street reatailers new advocates of libertarian values.
We would be way more excited if the long-established menswear specialists put the new ABERCROMBIE-stores on fire in old-fashioned hooligan manner and, true to style, wearing three-piece suits, of course.
On a daily-bases, press-releases by labels are reaching us, which have specialised in the production of sunglasses out of wood.
They are boasting themselves with sustainability. Are praising their work with totally funny slogans like ‘Woody since 2012′, ‘In Wood We Trust’ or ‘Done by nature, designed for your eyes’.
All die Holzbrillen-Designs von Marken wie Kerbholz, Stadtholz, Wood Fellas, WOODONE, ROLF Spectacles, Eric Lauer, Enzo Forciniti, Scherler oder Zeitgeist Berlin tun das nicht.
The Berlin-based label with the original name ‘Stadtholz’ is assuring that one ‘really has a piece of nature on their nose’, when purchasing their glasses.
But does one want that?! Having a piece of nature on your nose, when it looks bad. Sustainability is great and all. But fashion is mainly about design. And that should look good.
Plus, there is nothing more annoying than labels, who are massively pining ‘sustainability’ on their flag. Most of the times it is exactly those labels, who have as much to do with sustainability as bumm-bumm-Boris with the smart usage of Twitter. Not a lot.
Kris Van Assche will mainly concentrate on his work for DIOR HOMME. The Belgian designer announced the end of his label through a hand-written letter which he gave to his business partners and the press.
‘Times are tough for independent labels.’, Van Assche said to WWD. ‘This wonderful adventure has reached a point where I feel the need to take a break and some distance to better think about how to develop my brand in the future.’
We will miss the sporty-but-buttoned-up aesthetics by KRISVANASSCHE!
Getting Bananas ¿+’!
Next big Thing: Grace Wales Bonner
HOOD BY AIR presented their new collection ‘Daddy’ in a cellar-like setting at the Wall Street, the centrum of finance.
The mastermind behind HBA, Shayne Oliver, showed classics from the world of fashion, like button-down shirts, sweaters and polo t-shirts in the typical unisex Hood by Air Silhouette. Therefore it came to an hybrid between polo shirt and dress. Or camel coat and tank top.
The models wore locks in-front of their mouths and tights over their heads, like burglars. The soundtrack of the show, total freedom, was ended drastically, followed by jazz, underlined with the statement of the Empire:
“I wanna show you a faggot really can run this company”.
It becomes obvious how appreciated HBA is also in the art-world, when looking at the guests who attended the show, for example Klaus Biesenbach and Grace Coddington.
It seems that HBA, even after the diss by their once supporter A$AP ROCKY, is still very hip.