Cathy Horyn is a very well known but bland fashion journalist with a huge network. She writes for the New York Times, arguably the most important daily newspaper written in Latin characters. During Berlin Fashion Week every designer would surely sell their mom and more just to have Horyn watch their show. Hedi Slimane on the other hand wouldn’t do jack shit.
Yves Saint Laurent Designer didn’t even invite Horyn to his show, a terrible offense in our industry.
Horyn obviously wasn’t amused and directly contacted Slimane’s Boss, PPR-President Francois-Henri Pinault. However, he also couldn’t really do anything, or just didn’t want to. So Horyn went ahead and just wrote the entire story down, spicing it up with a review of the show after having looked through all the photos. And this story, she just published on the New York Times Blog.
Please find below a couple of the best passages to gain some unique insight into the mutual dependency of designers and journalists.
“There was also a smattering of star photographers, editors and models, like Kate Moss. But many front-row editors, to their disgruntlement, were given second- and third-row seats, and some, including an editor from Le Monde, had to stand. While a lot of journalists don’t really care where they sit, the lack of professional courtesy smacked of ignorance or arrogance.
I was not invited. Despite positive reviews of his early YSL and Dior collections, as well as a profile, Mr. Slimane objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004 — not about him but Raf Simons. Essentially I wrote that without Mr. Simons’s template of slim tailoring and street casting, there would not have been a Hedi Slimane — just as there would never have been a Raf Simons without Helmut Lang. Fashion develops a bit like a genetic line.
Anyway, Mr. Slimane insisted that he was the first to show the skinny suit. It was a silly debate. Who cares?”
At the end Horyn then adds the brutal criticism clearly insinuating that Slimane has been more concerned with blach and white photography than fashion.
“Considering that Mr. Slimane was an avatar of youthful style, I expected more from this debut. I had the impression from the clothes of someone disconnected from fashion of the past several years.”
This is how entertaining the fashion industry can be. More please!
Great! New suitcases by SAMSONITE. Thanks, yo!
Dandy of the Week: Daniel Sturridge
A Dandy sees red
After metrosexuality and spornosexuality, is it lumbersexuality going to be in?
Media as The Guardian, The Daily Beast and Buzzfeed presented ‘lumbersexual’ as the ‘next big thing’. Men with enormous beards and bellies in lumber-shirts, in work-boots, with wool-beanies on their heads and a freshly tapped beer in their hand.
But is that really the new trend? Men, who combine checked patterns with checked patterns, and who look like they have chucked some trees in the wood. No, not really. The look has been existing in the gay-scene for years (‘bears’ or ‘cubs’).
Plus we already know about the core-elements of the look (beard, lumber-shirt) from the hipster-scene. The picture (view the photo), which was used to express lumber-sexuality in a photo, has also been used to present the usual example of a hipster to their readers.
The hipster already was an anti-movement to the metro. The man became a man again. Sun-studios, picked eye-browes or shaved chests – all in all a no-go for the hipster. ‘Lumbersexuality’ is therefore no new anti-movement to metrosexuality, as it is celebrated in the media, but simply a continuation of the hipster-movement.
Therefore an old, fat hipster, who is drinking beer the whole day and who is just to distinguish by experts of ‘gay bears’. Therefore: no ‘next big thing’!