Cathy Horyn is a very well known but bland fashion journalist with a huge network. She writes for the New York Times, arguably the most important daily newspaper written in Latin characters. During Berlin Fashion Week every designer would surely sell their mom and more just to have Horyn watch their show. Hedi Slimane on the other hand wouldn’t do jack shit.
Yves Saint Laurent Designer didn’t even invite Horyn to his show, a terrible offense in our industry.
Horyn obviously wasn’t amused and directly contacted Slimane’s Boss, PPR-President Francois-Henri Pinault. However, he also couldn’t really do anything, or just didn’t want to. So Horyn went ahead and just wrote the entire story down, spicing it up with a review of the show after having looked through all the photos. And this story, she just published on the New York Times Blog.
Please find below a couple of the best passages to gain some unique insight into the mutual dependency of designers and journalists.
“There was also a smattering of star photographers, editors and models, like Kate Moss. But many front-row editors, to their disgruntlement, were given second- and third-row seats, and some, including an editor from Le Monde, had to stand. While a lot of journalists don’t really care where they sit, the lack of professional courtesy smacked of ignorance or arrogance.
I was not invited. Despite positive reviews of his early YSL and Dior collections, as well as a profile, Mr. Slimane objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004 — not about him but Raf Simons. Essentially I wrote that without Mr. Simons’s template of slim tailoring and street casting, there would not have been a Hedi Slimane — just as there would never have been a Raf Simons without Helmut Lang. Fashion develops a bit like a genetic line.
Anyway, Mr. Slimane insisted that he was the first to show the skinny suit. It was a silly debate. Who cares?”
At the end Horyn then adds the brutal criticism clearly insinuating that Slimane has been more concerned with blach and white photography than fashion.
“Considering that Mr. Slimane was an avatar of youthful style, I expected more from this debut. I had the impression from the clothes of someone disconnected from fashion of the past several years.”
This is how entertaining the fashion industry can be. More please!
A dick was enough to make the fashion world freak: RICK OWENS - sent out his models with coats and tunics, which were cut out at the crouch or had a hole, on the runway.
Under the designs of the ‘prince of darkness’ the models wore nothing, therefore the viewers, and a few minutes later also for the rest of world, could spot some penises.
Rick Owens told the i:D magazine backstage, how it happened that he broke that taboo:
“I thought it was the most simple, primal gesture-and you know I love a simply tiny, little gesture that packs the wallop. Not many people can do that. I mean, it’s a straight world now. And it also, I think, says something about being independent. Who else can really get away with that kind of stuff? It’s a corporate world.”
To show some balls – apparently a sign of independence. Rick Owens is one of the few independent designers, since his label does not belong to a luxury-conglomerate like LVMH or PPR.
The last time, that Rick Owens was shocking the fashion world is not so long ago: In 2013 he sent out raging dancers on the runway.
Dandy Diary Fashion Week Opening Party – Photos
A few years ago, streetstyle-experts started wearing their jackets or coats around their shoulders, instead of putting their arms through their sleeves. The technical term for that is ‘coat slinging’.
Recently, the german newspaper BUNTE (!) reported about the styling-trend. ‘Coat slinging’ therefore officially became a ‘no-go’. So: dear friends with good taste, please stick your arms in your sleeves from now on.
Because a sleeve without an arm, is like Justin O’Shea without Veronika, like Cara Delevigne without eyebrows: somehow not complete.
In 2008, Scott Schuman (aka: The Sartorialist) has revealed the first case of ‘coat slinging’ on his blog, afterwards an epidemic broke out, from which the fashion-world still has not recovered.
It has been enough: put your jackets on properly again! Otherwise you appear like a gay fashion-journalist from 2010 (who would put his arms into sleeves nowadays)