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Bitch Fight: CATHY HORYN (New York Times) vs. HEDI SLIMANE (Saint Laurent Paris)

 

Cathy Horyn is a very well known but bland fashion journalist with a huge network. She writes for the New York Times, arguably the most important daily newspaper written in Latin characters. During Berlin Fashion Week every designer would surely sell their mom and more just to have Horyn watch their show. Hedi Slimane on the other hand wouldn’t do jack shit.

The new Yves Saint Laurent Designer didn’t even invite Horyn to his show, a terrible offense in our industry.

Horyn obviously wasn’t amused and directly contacted Slimane’s Boss, PPR-President Francois-Henri Pinault. However, he also couldn’t really do anything, or just didn’t want to. So Horyn went ahead and just wrote the entire story down, spicing it up with a review of the show after having looked through all the photos. And this story, she just published on the New York Times Blog.

Please find below a couple of the best passages to gain some unique insight into the mutual dependency of designers and journalists.

 “There was also a smattering of star photographers, editors and models, like Kate Moss. But many front-row editors, to their disgruntlement, were given second- and third-row seats, and some, including an editor from Le Monde, had to stand. While a lot of journalists don’t really care where they sit, the lack of professional courtesy smacked of ignorance or arrogance.

I was not invited. Despite positive reviews of his early YSL and Dior collections, as well as a profile, Mr. Slimane objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004 — not about him but Raf Simons. Essentially I wrote that without Mr. Simons’s template of slim tailoring and street casting, there would not have been a Hedi Slimane — just as there would never have been a Raf Simons without Helmut Lang. Fashion develops a bit like a genetic line.

Anyway, Mr. Slimane insisted that he was the first to show the skinny suit. It was a silly debate. Who cares?”

At the end Horyn then adds the brutal criticism clearly insinuating that Slimane has been more concerned with blach and white photography than fashion.

 “Considering that Mr. Slimane was an avatar of youthful style, I expected more from this debut. I had the impression from the clothes of someone disconnected from fashion of the past several years.”

This is how entertaining the fashion industry can be. More please!

photo: nymag.com

Von: Jakob

NEWS

 

Dam’n ugly Teddybear Adilettes: ADIDAS Originals x Jeremy Scott

As you all know, we are HUGE fans of those Adilettes, but this is going to far:

The frolicking Jeremy Scott has put on two of his, since-always, very ugly teddybear heads on the iconographic plastic sandals for ADIDAS ORIGINALS.

We think that that is really not beautiful and have been asking ADIDAS for centuries to stop the cooperation with Scott. It is just causing trouble.

Von: Julian

TRENDS

 

Trend: Baggy-Pants (and the End of Sweat-Pants)

Sweat-pants are still super hip. There is no high fashion-label, that does not offer one of these very expensive, un-formed pants. And especially also H&M, Zara and all the other affordable retailers. Everybody is wearing them and currently one can’t do anything wrong by wearing them. Who decides to stick the pants into his socks, is at the very front.

Even further are the cool-cats among you, who have already discovered the next pants-trend: Baggy-pants.

This trend does obviously have it’s origin in the raging 90s trend, therefore a time, before Hedi Slimane even explained to Karl Lagerfeld, that one is only allowed to wear very tight skinny jeans from now on, in the year of 2000.

SKINNY JEANS WERE COOL THE DAY BEFORE YESTERDAY, SWEAT-PANTS YESTERDAY, TODAY BAGGY-PANTS RULE

GUCCI and MARC JACOBS have presented rather wide, straight-cut pants at their shows for autumn/winter 2015 (view the picture), as well as the brands A.P.C. and BOTTEGA VENETA. And also the influential blog Hypebeast has recently reported about the shift of sweat-pants to baggy-pants (and it’s influence on wearing sneakers). The trend is a topic for several players in the fashion-industry – which is a good sign for seeing it soon on the street.

When exactly the look is going to be seen there, is mainly depending on the question if the massively hip Hip Hop scene os going to pick up on their old looks and is going to wear baggies instead of tight skinny jeans and comfortable sweat-pants. After-all, rappers like A$AP Rocky, the gang from ODD FUTURE and Kanye West are important promoters for new trends in men’s fashion.

We think that this trend – which should be clear – is definitely dam’n cool and will try everything to adapt our closets to the baggy pants trend.

Von: Julian

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As usual terrifc setdesign at Henrik Vibskov!

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VIDEO

FASHION SHOWS

 

New York Fashion Week: Hood by Air AW 2015

HOOD BY AIR presented their new collection ‘Daddy’ in a cellar-like setting at the Wall Street, the centrum of finance.

The mastermind behind HBA, Shayne Oliver, showed classics from the world of fashion, like button-down shirts, sweaters and polo t-shirts in the typical unisex Hood by Air Silhouette. Therefore it came to an hybrid between polo shirt and dress. Or camel coat and tank top.

The models wore locks in-front of their mouths and tights over their heads, like burglars. The soundtrack of the show, total freedom, was ended drastically, followed by jazz, underlined with the statement of the Empire:

“I wanna show you a faggot really can run this company”.

It becomes obvious how appreciated HBA is also in the art-world, when looking at the guests who attended the show, for example Klaus Biesenbach and Grace Coddington.

It seems that HBA, even after the diss by their once supporter A$AP ROCKY, is still very hip.