Cathy Horyn is a very well known but bland fashion journalist with a huge network. She writes for the New York Times, arguably the most important daily newspaper written in Latin characters. During Berlin Fashion Week every designer would surely sell their mom and more just to have Horyn watch their show. Hedi Slimane on the other hand wouldn’t do jack shit.
Yves Saint Laurent Designer didn’t even invite Horyn to his show, a terrible offense in our industry.
Horyn obviously wasn’t amused and directly contacted Slimane’s Boss, PPR-President Francois-Henri Pinault. However, he also couldn’t really do anything, or just didn’t want to. So Horyn went ahead and just wrote the entire story down, spicing it up with a review of the show after having looked through all the photos. And this story, she just published on the New York Times Blog.
Please find below a couple of the best passages to gain some unique insight into the mutual dependency of designers and journalists.
“There was also a smattering of star photographers, editors and models, like Kate Moss. But many front-row editors, to their disgruntlement, were given second- and third-row seats, and some, including an editor from Le Monde, had to stand. While a lot of journalists don’t really care where they sit, the lack of professional courtesy smacked of ignorance or arrogance.
I was not invited. Despite positive reviews of his early YSL and Dior collections, as well as a profile, Mr. Slimane objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004 — not about him but Raf Simons. Essentially I wrote that without Mr. Simons’s template of slim tailoring and street casting, there would not have been a Hedi Slimane — just as there would never have been a Raf Simons without Helmut Lang. Fashion develops a bit like a genetic line.
Anyway, Mr. Slimane insisted that he was the first to show the skinny suit. It was a silly debate. Who cares?”
At the end Horyn then adds the brutal criticism clearly insinuating that Slimane has been more concerned with blach and white photography than fashion.
“Considering that Mr. Slimane was an avatar of youthful style, I expected more from this debut. I had the impression from the clothes of someone disconnected from fashion of the past several years.”
This is how entertaining the fashion industry can be. More please!
New York, New York!
One can say whatever he wants about the obsolete skinny-silhouette, the always-same leather jackets or the steady recourse to the 1970s and glam-rock: people are buying that shit.
Since Hedi Slimane became the creative director at SAINT LAURENT three years ago, the sales have doubled. Only in 2014 the annual sales climbed up to 27 percent to 707 million dollars – that has been released by the luxury concern KERING, to which Saint Laurent belongs.
For forward-approached and avant-gardistic fashion that is not much of a good sign.
It is going to be interesting to see, if GUCCI is going to proceed after the same principle. The Italian label is by far the biggest brand under the KERING-concern, with 3,5 billion dollars of sales per year – and has a new creative director, Alessandro Michele, since this year.
Our Hero: Pierre Debusschere
We are urgently asking for jackets, pants or sweaters, which carry an uncountable amount of patches.
Since we do not have time, nor the passion for a fabulous DIY-piece, were hereby want to ask all the PR-agencies on the planet to send us designs by their fashion-designers, which have patches on them (you can find the address in our legal info)
As often, Raf Simons was the pioneer of the trend ‘patches’. Or at least the designer, who’s influence can also be found in the collections by other designers. Simons showed designs in his SS 2015 collection, which showed images of personal memories (friends, family, astronauts, sharks etc.). He used the patches as some sort of mood board.
Kit Neale and Astrid Andersen have refined their pants with patches in their current collections (AW 2015). Sandro PARIS did the same with their already mega-hot leather jackets. And the Danish young designer Martin Mitchell made a jeans-vest.
The rule ‘the more the better’ counts of-course also for the patches trend! Go for it!
As usual terrifc setdesign at Henrik Vibskov!
HOOD BY AIR presented their new collection ‘Daddy’ in a cellar-like setting at the Wall Street, the centrum of finance.
The mastermind behind HBA, Shayne Oliver, showed classics from the world of fashion, like button-down shirts, sweaters and polo t-shirts in the typical unisex Hood by Air Silhouette. Therefore it came to an hybrid between polo shirt and dress. Or camel coat and tank top.
The models wore locks in-front of their mouths and tights over their heads, like burglars. The soundtrack of the show, total freedom, was ended drastically, followed by jazz, underlined with the statement of the Empire:
“I wanna show you a faggot really can run this company”.
It becomes obvious how appreciated HBA is also in the art-world, when looking at the guests who attended the show, for example Klaus Biesenbach and Grace Coddington.
It seems that HBA, even after the diss by their once supporter A$AP ROCKY, is still very hip.