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Bitch Fight: CATHY HORYN (New York Times) vs. HEDI SLIMANE (Saint Laurent Paris)

 

Cathy Horyn is a very well known but bland fashion journalist with a huge network. She writes for the New York Times, arguably the most important daily newspaper written in Latin characters. During Berlin Fashion Week every designer would surely sell their mom and more just to have Horyn watch their show. Hedi Slimane on the other hand wouldn’t do jack shit.

The new Yves Saint Laurent Designer didn’t even invite Horyn to his show, a terrible offense in our industry.

Horyn obviously wasn’t amused and directly contacted Slimane’s Boss, PPR-President Francois-Henri Pinault. However, he also couldn’t really do anything, or just didn’t want to. So Horyn went ahead and just wrote the entire story down, spicing it up with a review of the show after having looked through all the photos. And this story, she just published on the New York Times Blog.

Please find below a couple of the best passages to gain some unique insight into the mutual dependency of designers and journalists.

 “There was also a smattering of star photographers, editors and models, like Kate Moss. But many front-row editors, to their disgruntlement, were given second- and third-row seats, and some, including an editor from Le Monde, had to stand. While a lot of journalists don’t really care where they sit, the lack of professional courtesy smacked of ignorance or arrogance.

I was not invited. Despite positive reviews of his early YSL and Dior collections, as well as a profile, Mr. Slimane objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004 — not about him but Raf Simons. Essentially I wrote that without Mr. Simons’s template of slim tailoring and street casting, there would not have been a Hedi Slimane — just as there would never have been a Raf Simons without Helmut Lang. Fashion develops a bit like a genetic line.

Anyway, Mr. Slimane insisted that he was the first to show the skinny suit. It was a silly debate. Who cares?”

At the end Horyn then adds the brutal criticism clearly insinuating that Slimane has been more concerned with blach and white photography than fashion.

 “Considering that Mr. Slimane was an avatar of youthful style, I expected more from this debut. I had the impression from the clothes of someone disconnected from fashion of the past several years.”

This is how entertaining the fashion industry can be. More please!

photo: nymag.com

Von: Jakob

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Cathy Horyn >>> Hedi Slimane – a Conciliation?

Cathy Horn has been the critical voice of the New York Times for a long time. Her, unusual for the industry, critics have not always brought her friends. With the designer of Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane, she still is in a clinch.

After a critical article by Horyn, Hedi Slima published a tweet, in which he complains, that her critic is unprofessional, that she has always preferred Raf Simons (oh dear, oh dear) and that she is never going to be invited to another Saint Laurent fashion show.

Back then, in her sum-up about the Parisian fashion shows of the season, in which she was not allowed to take a seat for the New York Times at SAINT LAURENT, Horyn wrote the following sentence about Slimane’s work at SL:

‘With the decision, to remove the ‘Yves’ out of ‘Yves Saint Laurent’, Slimane cut the connection to the founder of the brand, and everything he stood for, good taste and female power’

The sharp-tongued Horyn is writing in a current article, that she wrote for the T magazine, in comparison, in a conciliable way about Slimane.

In ‘The Signs of Time’ she is describing the upcoming commercialisation of high-fashion labels. What used to be a ‘No-Go’, is becoming place. Wearable, not necessarily innovative, fashion.

Slimane and his fashion for Saint Laurent, have been named as the example for the changes in the article:

“It’s as though he refuses to strive for the standard goals of a luxury designer — to make modern, conceptual or intellectually resonating clothes. Instead, he makes straightforward commercial fashion that a woman can instantly relate to. I’m no fan of Slimane’s, but he’s clever. In two years as creative chief, he has barely broken a sweat as he fetches another pussy bow from the ’60s time capsule. Last year, Saint Laurent led Kering’s three biggest luxury brands in revenue growth with an 18 percent rise, beating Gucci and Bottega Veneta. He has also defeated his critics, who no doubt sensed the futility of continuing to point out that he doesn’t seem to be trying very hard to be inventive.”

Fashion is an effigy of our times. And, that must be acknowledged by Horyn, Slimane is in tune with the times with his work for Saint Laurent. With his simplification for fashion, his triumphal branding.

Slimane is more of a marketing-genius than a designer. Maybe that is the future. Is the genius designer, who is craving after innovation, always searching after something ‘new’ a discontinued model? Is it going to be the marketing-experts, who are ruling the future of fashion. Currently it seems like it.

You can read the complete article by Horyn here.

Von: Julian

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C://LANA/DESKTOP/Collection

Lana Dumitru, the designer of this hot collection, earned worldwide fame through her Facebook dress. Who does not know the Facebook dress, please follow here.

For her current collection  C://LANA/DESKTOP, the native Romanian used symbolics of the virtual world again. She printed the trash-symbol, which you should also have on your desktop somewhere, as symbols for the loud-speakers and loupe on neoprene-sweaters with USB-cables.

Above the trash-print a daily question appears: Are you sure you want to permanently erase the Items in the Trash? (You can’t undo this action)?  In this context, printed on a sweater, worn by a human, this question nearly becomes philosophical.

You can view all collections by our favourite CYBERGIRL from Transylvania, here.

 

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mike3

Dandy of the Week: Mike the Ruler

“Mike the Ruler” is the Lord of TumblrKing of Instagram and, since today, for this week, also ‘Dandy of the Week’. He is the youngest man (maybe more so the first kid), whom we provide this honour.

About one year ago the fame of ‘Mike the Ruler’ started. The 14-year old upper-east kid was hanging around at events by VFiles and at raves by the A$AP mob, and presented himself on Instagram in Rick Owens total-looks.

The Instagram hype about ‘Mike the Ruler’ started. In an interview, which VFiles arranged with him, Mike showed his, unusual for his age, impressive knowledge about fashion. He talked about Rick Owens fashion shows in 2007 (!) and told that he just wrote his homework about the topic ‘Helmut Lang vs. Calvin Klein’.

His favourite brands are, next to Rick Owens, the New York-based street-wear avant-garde brands - #BEENTRILL, HBA, TELFAR and Eckhaus Latta, a brand, which fashion is described by the young expert as ‘conceptual’. The pocket-money for those high-fashion labels is probably provided by his mom. She works as a lawyer.

Mike found his passion for fashion in 2011. His dad took him to an Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition. Mike Hope then became the fashion-lover ‘Mike the Ruler’.

Whenever Mike goes to an event, then he always takes a second outfit with him in his backpack, which he puts on, when he is bored. He simply owns the selfie-game (Mike is posing with the A$AP Mob like he never did something else). And ‘the Ruler’ probably happens to know more about fashion then most German fashion-journalists.

Without questioning: ‘Mike the Ruler’ has more then earned, to be our youngest  ”Dandy of Week”!

Photos: via www.housetribeca.com