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Bitch Fight: CATHY HORYN (New York Times) vs. HEDI SLIMANE (Saint Laurent Paris)

 

Cathy Horyn is a very well known but bland fashion journalist with a huge network. She writes for the New York Times, arguably the most important daily newspaper written in Latin characters. During Berlin Fashion Week every designer would surely sell their mom and more just to have Horyn watch their show. Hedi Slimane on the other hand wouldn’t do jack shit.

The new Yves Saint Laurent Designer didn’t even invite Horyn to his show, a terrible offense in our industry.

Horyn obviously wasn’t amused and directly contacted Slimane’s Boss, PPR-President Francois-Henri Pinault. However, he also couldn’t really do anything, or just didn’t want to. So Horyn went ahead and just wrote the entire story down, spicing it up with a review of the show after having looked through all the photos. And this story, she just published on the New York Times Blog.

Please find below a couple of the best passages to gain some unique insight into the mutual dependency of designers and journalists.

 “There was also a smattering of star photographers, editors and models, like Kate Moss. But many front-row editors, to their disgruntlement, were given second- and third-row seats, and some, including an editor from Le Monde, had to stand. While a lot of journalists don’t really care where they sit, the lack of professional courtesy smacked of ignorance or arrogance.

I was not invited. Despite positive reviews of his early YSL and Dior collections, as well as a profile, Mr. Slimane objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004 — not about him but Raf Simons. Essentially I wrote that without Mr. Simons’s template of slim tailoring and street casting, there would not have been a Hedi Slimane — just as there would never have been a Raf Simons without Helmut Lang. Fashion develops a bit like a genetic line.

Anyway, Mr. Slimane insisted that he was the first to show the skinny suit. It was a silly debate. Who cares?”

At the end Horyn then adds the brutal criticism clearly insinuating that Slimane has been more concerned with blach and white photography than fashion.

 “Considering that Mr. Slimane was an avatar of youthful style, I expected more from this debut. I had the impression from the clothes of someone disconnected from fashion of the past several years.”

This is how entertaining the fashion industry can be. More please!

photo: nymag.com

Von: Jakob

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After Transition to ADIDAS: NIKE is suing three Ex-Employees for 10 Million Dollars

A few weeks ago, it was announced that three of the most important shoe-designers at NIKE are going to transit to ADIDAS. The hard bitch-move, on NIKE’s costs, had an effect:

NIKE is suing the designers Marc Dolce, Mark Miner and Denis Dekovic for, all in all, 10 million US-dollars. The accusation is that they have already been consulting ADIDAS while working at NIKE and stole company kept secrets, like the design for a new shoe-model and gave it to their new employer.

It is also interesting, that the three were accused of stealing documents from NIKEs ‘kitchen’, the strictly kept-secret design-lab that NIKE is running in Beaverton (Oregon, USA). A similar design-house is suppose to be build by Dolce, Miner and Dekovic, beginning in September 2015, for ADIDAS in Brooklyn. Coincidence? Well.

Insiders therefore suppose that ADIDAS is going to carry the costs for the trial, direct or indirect. Because even for a top-designer, 10 million dollars are a lot of cash, it is only a mild fart in the hand of ADIDAS.

The Portland Business Journal has created, based on the plaint by NIKE, a chronology of the incidents, which could also be a great screen-play for a nerve-racking economy-thriller:

October 3, 2005: Nike hires Dolce as senior designer for Active Life. He signs a non-compete and secrecy agreement.

November 2005: Nike hires Dekovic as a senior designer.

2007: Nike promotes Dolce to design director for Nike Sportswear.

March 2008: Nike hires Miner as a footwear designer in Women’s Training. He signs a secrecy agreement.

2011: Nike promotes Miner to senior footwear designer for running. He signs a non-compete agreement.

2012: Nike starts a $1.5 million effort known as “Keep It Tight” to prevent leaks of confidential information.

February 7, 2012: Nike promotes Dekovic to design director for Global Football (soccer). He signs a non-compete agreement. Dekovic also signed a secrecy agreement on April 16, 2007.

2014: Nike promotes Dekovic to senior design director.

March 2014: Brian Foresta, Adidas vice president of design for global basketball, contacts Dolce andDekovic to “discuss professional careers,” according to Nike.

April 2014: Nike claims the designers start a “plot” to leave and take trade secrets. Nike further claimsDekovic, Dolce and Miner bought “thousands of phony social media followers” in order to create “false perception of buzz and popularity” and make themselves more attractive to future employers.

April 29, 2014: Dekovic tells Miner and Dolce to use his personal email address for further communications, according to Nike.

May 18, 2014: Dekovic and Dolce agree on a plan to pay for Instagram and Twitter followers, according to Nike.

May 2014: Nike agrees to pay more than $50,000 in relocation expenses so Dekovic can more his family to Italy. Nike quotes an electronic communication from Dekovic in which he says Italy is one of those “countries where (Nike’s) non compete is difficult to enforce.”

June 2014: Dekovic, Dolce and Miner are “fully engaged” in discussions with officials at Adidas to start a design center modeled after Nike’s innovation lab, which is known as the Kitchen, according to Nike.

June 2014: Dekovic, Dolce and Miner start work for Adidas as consultants while still employed at Nike, according to Nike.

June 29, 2014: Dekovic meets with Adidas Vice President Brian Foresta to talk about the design center.

June 2014: Dekovic, Dolce and Miner raise concerns about legal consequences of consulting for Adidas, according to Nike.

June 21, 2014: Dekovic sends a copy of his Nike non-compete agreement to Adidas.

July 2014: Dekovic and his family move to Italy.

Aug. 22, 2014: Adidas presents Dekovic, Dolce and Miner “lucrative” employment offers, according to Nike.

September 16, 2014: Dekovic copies hard drive of his Nike-issued laptop, according to Nike.

September 19, 2014: Dolce emails confidential Nike design plans to his personal email account, according to Nike.

September 22, 2014: Last day of employment for Dekovic, Dolce and Miner at Nike.

December 8, 2014: Nike files $10 million lawsuit for breach of contract and misappropriation of trade secrets, among other claims.

Von: Julian

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TRENDS

 

No-Go: Coat Slinging!

 

A few years ago, streetstyle-experts started wearing their jackets or coats around their shoulders, instead of putting their arms through their sleeves. The technical term for that is ‘coat slinging’.

Recently, the german newspaper BUNTE (!) reported about the styling-trend. ‘Coat slinging’ therefore officially became a ‘no-go’. So: dear friends with good taste, please stick your arms in your sleeves from now on.

Because a sleeve without an arm, is like Justin O’Shea without Veronika, like Cara Delevigne without eyebrows: somehow not complete.

In 2008, Scott Schuman (aka: The Sartorialist) has revealed the first case of ‘coat slinging’ on his blog, afterwards an epidemic broke out, from which the fashion-world still has not recovered.

It has been enough: put your jackets on properly again! Otherwise you appear like a gay fashion-journalist from 2010 (who would put his arms into sleeves nowadays)

Von: Julian

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Casual Thursday Candy Jakob sporting some posttraditional Austrian gangster wear @adidasy3 pants, @gstarraw_official jacket, @nike sneakers and this White Russian hat from Moscow in between some deers.

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