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Bitch Fight: CATHY HORYN (New York Times) vs. HEDI SLIMANE (Saint Laurent Paris)

 

Cathy Horyn is a very well known but bland fashion journalist with a huge network. She writes for the New York Times, arguably the most important daily newspaper written in Latin characters. During Berlin Fashion Week every designer would surely sell their mom and more just to have Horyn watch their show. Hedi Slimane on the other hand wouldn’t do jack shit.

The new Yves Saint Laurent Designer didn’t even invite Horyn to his show, a terrible offense in our industry.

Horyn obviously wasn’t amused and directly contacted Slimane’s Boss, PPR-President Francois-Henri Pinault. However, he also couldn’t really do anything, or just didn’t want to. So Horyn went ahead and just wrote the entire story down, spicing it up with a review of the show after having looked through all the photos. And this story, she just published on the New York Times Blog.

Please find below a couple of the best passages to gain some unique insight into the mutual dependency of designers and journalists.

 “There was also a smattering of star photographers, editors and models, like Kate Moss. But many front-row editors, to their disgruntlement, were given second- and third-row seats, and some, including an editor from Le Monde, had to stand. While a lot of journalists don’t really care where they sit, the lack of professional courtesy smacked of ignorance or arrogance.

I was not invited. Despite positive reviews of his early YSL and Dior collections, as well as a profile, Mr. Slimane objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004 — not about him but Raf Simons. Essentially I wrote that without Mr. Simons’s template of slim tailoring and street casting, there would not have been a Hedi Slimane — just as there would never have been a Raf Simons without Helmut Lang. Fashion develops a bit like a genetic line.

Anyway, Mr. Slimane insisted that he was the first to show the skinny suit. It was a silly debate. Who cares?”

At the end Horyn then adds the brutal criticism clearly insinuating that Slimane has been more concerned with blach and white photography than fashion.

 “Considering that Mr. Slimane was an avatar of youthful style, I expected more from this debut. I had the impression from the clothes of someone disconnected from fashion of the past several years.”

This is how entertaining the fashion industry can be. More please!

photo: nymag.com

Von: Jakob

SPECIAL

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London Collections: Men – Schedule

On the 9th of january is is finally happening: the fashion show circus. 

As usual it starts with the London Collections: Men (9th – 12th of january). The LC:M has a gigantic potencial. It is growing year by year. For the AW season 2015, the LC:M is expanded by one day. 

All in all, 60 labels are taking part during the men’s fashion week. New in participating: the accessory-label Universal-Works, Nigel Cabourn and the Danish mens-wear label SOULLAND. Already last season, Silas Adler from SOULLAND resigned from hosting a show during the Copenhagen fashion week, now taking part in London. 

Here are the DANDY DIARY highlights during the London Collections: Men:

Friday, 9th of january, 3 PM: MAN Shows:                                                                                                                            The initiative by TOPMAN and Fashion EAST is the very platform for young talents. A complete list of today’s successful fashion-designers, who started with the MAN shows, would burst the blog-spot (among them: Astrid Andersen, JW Andersen, Agi & Sam and, and, and). In january Disney-fan Bobby Abley, Nicomeda Talavera and Liam Hodges, whom we introduced recently, are going to present their fashion during the MAN shows. 

Friday, 9th of january, 3.30 PM: KIT NEALE                                                                                                                                                        KIT NEALE is at the beginning of his career. But his installations and designs are bristling of the amount of ideas and humour, therefore a ‘Must-Go’ during the LC:M. Our favourite piece by KIT NEALE: a sweater, on which he – in the style of street-rug – eternalised his London hood Peckham. Let’s see, what funny things he thought of for his AW 2015 collection.     

Saturday, 10th of january, 12.00 AM, ASTRID ANDERSEN                                                                                                               ASTRID ANDERSEN designs sportluxe-designs. A mix of conventional sportswear-pieces (tank-tops, tracksuits and basketball-shorts) and luxurious materials, as mink. Her tank-tops with laces are legendary. A fusion between compressed man-hood and femininity. Since her design-cooperation with TOPMAN, there was another massive boom for the Danish designer when it comes to popularity. 

Sunday, 11th of january, 2PM, MOSCHINO                                                                                                                    We are not amazed by everything that is done by MOSCHINO‘s designer Jeremy Scott. Either his designs (and: ideas behind it) are extremely genius or crazily off target, but never boring, therefore don’t miss it. 

Monday, 12th of january, 11:00 AM, CRAIG GREEN                                                                                                     
CRAIG GREEN has earned his skills at the famous Central Saint Martins College. He originally studied art at the CSM, but at some point he discovered his – thank god – passion for fashion. His last fashion shows at the LC:M caused big emotions. The front-row was crying, fashion journalist Tim Blanks mentioned a ‘fashion moment’.

Monday, 12th of january, 5 PM, NASIR MAZHAR                                                                                                        
NASIR MAZHAR, London’s ‘KING OF COOLNESS’. The ex-hair-dresser has accomplished what other famous brands are after for decades: to create his own world (music, fashion. lifestyle). He influenced the chavy sportswear-look. Mazhar has been sending out muscular boys and ghetto-chics on the catwalk, while playing consequent hard hip hop tracks, for many seasons. ALL hip kids worship him. We do so too, of-course. 

The (complete) schedule for the London Collections: Men can found here.

Von: Julian

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Lumbersexuality – simply fat, old Hipster!

After metrosexuality and spornosexuality, is it lumbersexuality going to be in?

Media as The GuardianThe Daily Beast and Buzzfeed presented ‘lumbersexual’ as the ‘next big thing’. Men with enormous beards and bellies in lumber-shirts, in work-boots, with wool-beanies on their heads and a freshly tapped beer in their hand.

But is that really the new trend? Men, who combine checked patterns with checked patterns, and who look like they have chucked some trees in the wood. No, not really. The look has been existing in the gay-scene for years (‘bears’ or ‘cubs’).

Plus we already know about the core-elements of the look (beard, lumber-shirt) from the hipster-scene. The picture (view the photo), which was used to express lumber-sexuality in a photo, has also been used to present the usual example of a hipster to their readers.

The hipster already was an anti-movement to the metro. The man became a man again. Sun-studios, picked eye-browes or shaved chests – all in all a no-go for the hipster. ‘Lumbersexuality’ is therefore no new anti-movement to metrosexuality, as it is celebrated in the media, but simply a continuation of the hipster-movement.

Therefore an old, fat hipster, who is drinking beer the whole day and who is just to distinguish by experts of ‘gay bears’. Therefore: no ‘next big thing’!

Von: Julian

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Thanks to @kinderandtank for keeping us warm

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