Cathy Horyn is a very well known but bland fashion journalist with a huge network. She writes for the New York Times, arguably the most important daily newspaper written in Latin characters. During Berlin Fashion Week every designer would surely sell their mom and more just to have Horyn watch their show. Hedi Slimane on the other hand wouldn’t do jack shit.
Yves Saint Laurent Designer didn’t even invite Horyn to his show, a terrible offense in our industry.
Horyn obviously wasn’t amused and directly contacted Slimane’s Boss, PPR-President Francois-Henri Pinault. However, he also couldn’t really do anything, or just didn’t want to. So Horyn went ahead and just wrote the entire story down, spicing it up with a review of the show after having looked through all the photos. And this story, she just published on the New York Times Blog.
Please find below a couple of the best passages to gain some unique insight into the mutual dependency of designers and journalists.
“There was also a smattering of star photographers, editors and models, like Kate Moss. But many front-row editors, to their disgruntlement, were given second- and third-row seats, and some, including an editor from Le Monde, had to stand. While a lot of journalists don’t really care where they sit, the lack of professional courtesy smacked of ignorance or arrogance.
I was not invited. Despite positive reviews of his early YSL and Dior collections, as well as a profile, Mr. Slimane objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004 — not about him but Raf Simons. Essentially I wrote that without Mr. Simons’s template of slim tailoring and street casting, there would not have been a Hedi Slimane — just as there would never have been a Raf Simons without Helmut Lang. Fashion develops a bit like a genetic line.
Anyway, Mr. Slimane insisted that he was the first to show the skinny suit. It was a silly debate. Who cares?”
At the end Horyn then adds the brutal criticism clearly insinuating that Slimane has been more concerned with blach and white photography than fashion.
“Considering that Mr. Slimane was an avatar of youthful style, I expected more from this debut. I had the impression from the clothes of someone disconnected from fashion of the past several years.”
This is how entertaining the fashion industry can be. More please!
Certified herewith, it finally seems to be over, the very-relaxed-ironic (and of-course also by-us publicised to the limit) adilettes-look, which, if possible, you wear in the most obnoxious ways (with a suit- hihihi, in winter – hihihi, to your sisters wedding – hihihi, to Yom Kippur – hihihi).
On this picture, the smoochy singer Sascha ‘Sasha’ Schmitz, who was already out, before we even had pubic hair, is wearing adilettes with a smoking. Therefore it is official and very clear: the adilettes-look has reached the deepest and worst low of mainstream – and is celebrated there with a twinkling smile. There is nothing worse.
Whoever is still serious (hihihi) about wearing ADIDAS-bathing-shoes, has not understood anything and should be punished with having to listen to Sasha’s new album for three days.
DANDY DIARY-Lederhose wins Prize of Honour at the Oktoberfest in Pune (India)
In august we first reported about the trend Health Goth.
The term for the trend was created by Mike Grabarek and Jeremy Scott – an R’n’B duo (Magic Fades) from Portland, USA – they created a #healthgoth Facebook Fanpage in april 2013.
They are posting everything what they connect with the Health Goth world on their Facebook page: black-and-white PORSCHE DESIGN performance-sneaker, campaign-pictures from the H&M x Alexander Wang cooperation, NORTHFACE etip gloves, bionic-futuristic body parts and fighting-outfits for the super-human of the far-away future.
The Health Goth fan page started growing quickly. The world of the HealthGothers seemed alright. But then the first evil mainstream-media – the French women’s magazine Marie Claire – and reported about the trend five days ago: Health Goth – the Latest Trend You’ve Never Heard of
Marie Claire explained the trend to their readers like that:
…it’s a very modern mix of gothic and punk sensibilities (think dark colours, figure-hugging silhouettes and heavy statement accessories) and futuristic sport-luxe. Weird? Very. Cool? Apparently.
The Health-Goth-scene (therefore: everyone, who is hanging around, underground-style, on the Health Goth Facebook page, was shocked. Their movement has been betrayed. Angry Health Gothers were typing, even angrier, R.I.P. Health Goth lines with the keys of their MACs:
Also the Australian Oyster Magazine, which, different from Marie Claire, belongs to the good ones, to the media, which are entitled to have insider-knowledge, titled: RIP The Trend That Never Was. But did the Marie Claire article really mark the end of Health Goth?
It is the beginning of the end, but not the end. The fashionable awareness (a hand-full of knowers) is going to move on quickly, to the ‘next big thing’, but the wide mass is just becoming alert through a media like Marie Claire. The trend therefore is about to just take off (Merci, Marie!).
Health Goth is a trend, which, like Seapunk, was created on the internet. It is the future-model of the development of trends (and as one can say already the common model of the presence). The internet is a gigantic multiplicator and accelerator. Back in the days it took years for a trend to become mainstream from underground. The entering-barriers to become part of a movement, were much higher:
One rebelled against the parents (Hippies). One would hang around, with black make-up and with creepy people at a cemetery (Gothic). Or would drink all-day, fight, bawl or tear holes in several parts of your body with piercings (Punk).
Today you sit at home, in-front of your laptop, upload pictures, comment, like and share (Health Goth). It never was easier to be part of a movement, therefore it is no surprise, that a movement becomes mainstream faster than a bunny could fuck.
A consequence of our time. Not the over-take of mainstream of the trend is objectionable, but the acted horror by the virtual underground, who feels betrayed.