Cathy Horyn is a very well known but bland fashion journalist with a huge network. She writes for the New York Times, arguably the most important daily newspaper written in Latin characters. During Berlin Fashion Week every designer would surely sell their mom and more just to have Horyn watch their show. Hedi Slimane on the other hand wouldn’t do jack shit.
Yves Saint Laurent Designer didn’t even invite Horyn to his show, a terrible offense in our industry.
Horyn obviously wasn’t amused and directly contacted Slimane’s Boss, PPR-President Francois-Henri Pinault. However, he also couldn’t really do anything, or just didn’t want to. So Horyn went ahead and just wrote the entire story down, spicing it up with a review of the show after having looked through all the photos. And this story, she just published on the New York Times Blog.
Please find below a couple of the best passages to gain some unique insight into the mutual dependency of designers and journalists.
“There was also a smattering of star photographers, editors and models, like Kate Moss. But many front-row editors, to their disgruntlement, were given second- and third-row seats, and some, including an editor from Le Monde, had to stand. While a lot of journalists don’t really care where they sit, the lack of professional courtesy smacked of ignorance or arrogance.
I was not invited. Despite positive reviews of his early YSL and Dior collections, as well as a profile, Mr. Slimane objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004 — not about him but Raf Simons. Essentially I wrote that without Mr. Simons’s template of slim tailoring and street casting, there would not have been a Hedi Slimane — just as there would never have been a Raf Simons without Helmut Lang. Fashion develops a bit like a genetic line.
Anyway, Mr. Slimane insisted that he was the first to show the skinny suit. It was a silly debate. Who cares?”
At the end Horyn then adds the brutal criticism clearly insinuating that Slimane has been more concerned with blach and white photography than fashion.
“Considering that Mr. Slimane was an avatar of youthful style, I expected more from this debut. I had the impression from the clothes of someone disconnected from fashion of the past several years.”
This is how entertaining the fashion industry can be. More please!
If you want to believe the hip stylists of the Florence-based luxury store LUISA VIA ROMA and if you were paying attention at our last fashion week opening party in january this year, you know it already: the 1970s are currently brutally hip.
In their new editorial ‘Backstage Pass’, in which the LVR-stylist Carmel Walsh is showing the hottest pieces of the spring/summer-collection 2015, we can see a lot of 70s glamour and glammy rockstar-styles by, among others, DRIES VAN NOTEN, DOLCE & GABBANA, LANVIN, SAINT LAURENT, HAIDER ACKERMANN and BALMAIN.
If 70s rockstar-chic, then please like that, we think. That one has to have at least as much cash as the Rolling Stones, is obvious.
Yes! White shoes are more important this summer, then for a long time. Everybody should have a pair, at least. Here counts: the whiter, the better.
Very handy therefore would be the model ‘Sock Dart’ from the sportswear-giant NIKE in ‘triple white’. Whiter is nearly impossible. Only the damn and apparently unavoidable ‘swoosh’ is black. Ugh!
When the shoe is going to be released, is ,according to the trade magazine Sneaker Freaker, which called the shoe ‘clean, minimal and ice cold’, not sure yet. We are guessing though, that the snow-white ‘Sock Dart’ is not thought of as an autumn/winter-shoe and is going to be released soon.
Beauties x BOND Hardware
The most beautiful cafe in Copenhagen is located at the up and coming island Papirøen and is owned by the fashion designer Henrik Vibskov. I know that, because I was there – and that is not obvious.
The long Danish man does not seem to care about people knowing about ‘Den Plettede Gris’ . Only a few insiders in the city and the cafes close neighbours, know about it.
Vibskov had to open the cafe a few months ago. It has not been his dream, but an obligation by his landlord. Because Vibs wanted to have his design studio in the same building, he had to promise the landlord to also make the house accessible for the public and therefore to open a cafe.
And the designer did so, even if he had some issues with that: During winter, the industrial area, which is located directly at the water, is hardly populated. Even the close-by design-university with it’s hundreds of hip students does not change that. The maximum of ten seats at the cafe are rather inviting for a short stay. The actual popular places are the outdoor places directly at the bridges platforms. But there one prefers to be during summer. Who has been at a fashion show by Vibskov during winter, at the close-by located warehouses, knows how brutally cold it can get.
Since he had no other choice, Vibskov still opened the cafe, despite his doubts. That he had to personally visit a hygiene-course and had to deal with the art of making coffee, has been grouchily accepted.
The special interior of the 14 square meter small cafe apparently has been the smallest issue. The inspiration came from the inside of a piano. That is why there are ropes everywhere, which are reminding one of strings and wooden pieces, which seem like a keyboard. Similar designs were presented at fashion shows by Vibskov in Copenhagen and Paris.
The menu of ‘Den Plettede Gris’ is similar Scandinavian direct, as the master himself. There is coffee, tea, water, beer and wine. No snack, no breakfast, no frills.
Vibskov preferes to drink his coffee black anyway.
Den Plettede Gris ::: Trangravsvej 5 ::: Copenhagen ::: Mo-Fr 9am-6pm ::: Sa-So 10am-6pm
HOOD BY AIR presented their new collection ‘Daddy’ in a cellar-like setting at the Wall Street, the centrum of finance.
The mastermind behind HBA, Shayne Oliver, showed classics from the world of fashion, like button-down shirts, sweaters and polo t-shirts in the typical unisex Hood by Air Silhouette. Therefore it came to an hybrid between polo shirt and dress. Or camel coat and tank top.
The models wore locks in-front of their mouths and tights over their heads, like burglars. The soundtrack of the show, total freedom, was ended drastically, followed by jazz, underlined with the statement of the Empire:
“I wanna show you a faggot really can run this company”.
It becomes obvious how appreciated HBA is also in the art-world, when looking at the guests who attended the show, for example Klaus Biesenbach and Grace Coddington.
It seems that HBA, even after the diss by their once supporter A$AP ROCKY, is still very hip.