Cathy Horyn is a very well known but bland fashion journalist with a huge network. She writes for the New York Times, arguably the most important daily newspaper written in Latin characters. During Berlin Fashion Week every designer would surely sell their mom and more just to have Horyn watch their show. Hedi Slimane on the other hand wouldn’t do jack shit.
Yves Saint Laurent Designer didn’t even invite Horyn to his show, a terrible offense in our industry.
Horyn obviously wasn’t amused and directly contacted Slimane’s Boss, PPR-President Francois-Henri Pinault. However, he also couldn’t really do anything, or just didn’t want to. So Horyn went ahead and just wrote the entire story down, spicing it up with a review of the show after having looked through all the photos. And this story, she just published on the New York Times Blog.
Please find below a couple of the best passages to gain some unique insight into the mutual dependency of designers and journalists.
“There was also a smattering of star photographers, editors and models, like Kate Moss. But many front-row editors, to their disgruntlement, were given second- and third-row seats, and some, including an editor from Le Monde, had to stand. While a lot of journalists don’t really care where they sit, the lack of professional courtesy smacked of ignorance or arrogance.
I was not invited. Despite positive reviews of his early YSL and Dior collections, as well as a profile, Mr. Slimane objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004 — not about him but Raf Simons. Essentially I wrote that without Mr. Simons’s template of slim tailoring and street casting, there would not have been a Hedi Slimane — just as there would never have been a Raf Simons without Helmut Lang. Fashion develops a bit like a genetic line.
Anyway, Mr. Slimane insisted that he was the first to show the skinny suit. It was a silly debate. Who cares?”
At the end Horyn then adds the brutal criticism clearly insinuating that Slimane has been more concerned with blach and white photography than fashion.
“Considering that Mr. Slimane was an avatar of youthful style, I expected more from this debut. I had the impression from the clothes of someone disconnected from fashion of the past several years.”
This is how entertaining the fashion industry can be. More please!
On a daily-bases, press-releases by labels are reaching us, which have specialised in the production of sunglasses out of wood.
They are boasting themselves with sustainability. Are praising their work with totally funny slogans like ‘Woody since 2012′, ‘In Wood We Trust’ or ‘Done by nature, designed for your eyes’.
All die Holzbrillen-Designs von Marken wie Kerbholz, Stadtholz, Wood Fellas, WOODONE, ROLF Spectacles, Eric Lauer, Enzo Forciniti, Scherler oder Zeitgeist Berlin tun das nicht.
The Berlin-based label with the original name ‘Stadtholz’ is assuring that one ‘really has a piece of nature on their nose’, when purchasing their glasses.
But does one want that?! Having a piece of nature on your nose, when it looks bad. Sustainability is great and all. But fashion is mainly about design. And that should look good.
Plus, there is nothing more annoying than labels, who are massively pining ‘sustainability’ on their flag. Most of the times it is exactly those labels, who have as much to do with sustainability as bumm-bumm-Boris with the smart usage of Twitter. Not a lot.
Kris Van Assche will mainly concentrate on his work for DIOR HOMME. The Belgian designer announced the end of his label through a hand-written letter which he gave to his business partners and the press.
‘Times are tough for independent labels.’, Van Assche said to WWD. ‘This wonderful adventure has reached a point where I feel the need to take a break and some distance to better think about how to develop my brand in the future.’
We will miss the sporty-but-buttoned-up aesthetics by KRISVANASSCHE!
Getting Bananas ¿+’!
Next big Thing: Grace Wales Bonner
HOOD BY AIR presented their new collection ‘Daddy’ in a cellar-like setting at the Wall Street, the centrum of finance.
The mastermind behind HBA, Shayne Oliver, showed classics from the world of fashion, like button-down shirts, sweaters and polo t-shirts in the typical unisex Hood by Air Silhouette. Therefore it came to an hybrid between polo shirt and dress. Or camel coat and tank top.
The models wore locks in-front of their mouths and tights over their heads, like burglars. The soundtrack of the show, total freedom, was ended drastically, followed by jazz, underlined with the statement of the Empire:
“I wanna show you a faggot really can run this company”.
It becomes obvious how appreciated HBA is also in the art-world, when looking at the guests who attended the show, for example Klaus Biesenbach and Grace Coddington.
It seems that HBA, even after the diss by their once supporter A$AP ROCKY, is still very hip.