Andrea Roedig is wondering in TAZ how the ‘almost offensively” simple equation of “Shopping equals party” of American chav fashion brand ABERCROMBIE & FITCH can work so well.
Moreover, she notices that ‘the show of lick spit model clones, advertising aesthetics and marketing strategy are a complete gay fest. A&F is virtually obsessed by the naked male chest. Shopping is set up like a dark techno party.’
“I have been wondering for a long time why it’s the wannabe tough guys and machos that usually consider ‘gay’ an insult on the school yard that are going crazy over these over-the-top homo aesthetics and gay shop openings, having taken it in to their macho lives.
On a daily-bases, press-releases by labels are reaching us, which have specialised in the production of sunglasses out of wood.
They are boasting themselves with sustainability. Are praising their work with totally funny slogans like ‘Woody since 2012′, ‘In Wood We Trust’ or ‘Done by nature, designed for your eyes’.
All die Holzbrillen-Designs von Marken wie Kerbholz, Stadtholz, Wood Fellas, WOODONE, ROLF Spectacles, Eric Lauer, Enzo Forciniti, Scherler oder Zeitgeist Berlin tun das nicht.
The Berlin-based label with the original name ‘Stadtholz’ is assuring that one ‘really has a piece of nature on their nose’, when purchasing their glasses.
But does one want that?! Having a piece of nature on your nose, when it looks bad. Sustainability is great and all. But fashion is mainly about design. And that should look good.
Plus, there is nothing more annoying than labels, who are massively pining ‘sustainability’ on their flag. Most of the times it is exactly those labels, who have as much to do with sustainability as bumm-bumm-Boris with the smart usage of Twitter. Not a lot.
Kris Van Assche will mainly concentrate on his work for DIOR HOMME. The Belgian designer announced the end of his label through a hand-written letter which he gave to his business partners and the press.
‘Times are tough for independent labels.’, Van Assche said to WWD. ‘This wonderful adventure has reached a point where I feel the need to take a break and some distance to better think about how to develop my brand in the future.’
We will miss the sporty-but-buttoned-up aesthetics by KRISVANASSCHE!
Getting Bananas ¿+’!
Next big Thing: Grace Wales Bonner
HOOD BY AIR presented their new collection ‘Daddy’ in a cellar-like setting at the Wall Street, the centrum of finance.
The mastermind behind HBA, Shayne Oliver, showed classics from the world of fashion, like button-down shirts, sweaters and polo t-shirts in the typical unisex Hood by Air Silhouette. Therefore it came to an hybrid between polo shirt and dress. Or camel coat and tank top.
The models wore locks in-front of their mouths and tights over their heads, like burglars. The soundtrack of the show, total freedom, was ended drastically, followed by jazz, underlined with the statement of the Empire:
“I wanna show you a faggot really can run this company”.
It becomes obvious how appreciated HBA is also in the art-world, when looking at the guests who attended the show, for example Klaus Biesenbach and Grace Coddington.
It seems that HBA, even after the diss by their once supporter A$AP ROCKY, is still very hip.