Andrea Roedig is wondering in TAZ how the ‘almost offensively” simple equation of “Shopping equals party” of American chav fashion brand ABERCROMBIE & FITCH can work so well.
Moreover, she notices that ‘the show of lick spit model clones, advertising aesthetics and marketing strategy are a complete gay fest. A&F is virtually obsessed by the naked male chest. Shopping is set up like a dark techno party.’
“I have been wondering for a long time why it’s the wannabe tough guys and machos that usually consider ‘gay’ an insult on the school yard that are going crazy over these over-the-top homo aesthetics and gay shop openings, having taken it in to their macho lives.
Cathy Horn has been the critical voice of the New York Times for a long time. Her, unusual for the industry, critics have not always brought her friends. With the designer of Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane, she still is in a clinch.
After a critical article by Horyn, Hedi Slima published a tweet, in which he complains, that her critic is unprofessional, that she has always preferred Raf Simons (oh dear, oh dear) and that she is never going to be invited to another Saint Laurent fashion show.
Back then, in her sum-up about the Parisian fashion shows of the season, in which she was not allowed to take a seat for the New York Times at SAINT LAURENT, Horyn wrote the following sentence about Slimane’s work at SL:
‘With the decision, to remove the ‘Yves’ out of ‘Yves Saint Laurent’, Slimane cut the connection to the founder of the brand, and everything he stood for, good taste and female power’
The sharp-tongued Horyn is writing in a current article, that she wrote for the T magazine, in comparison, in a conciliable way about Slimane.
In ‘The Signs of Time’ she is describing the upcoming commercialisation of high-fashion labels. What used to be a ‘No-Go’, is becoming place. Wearable, not necessarily innovative, fashion.
Slimane and his fashion for Saint Laurent, have been named as the example for the changes in the article:
“It’s as though he refuses to strive for the standard goals of a luxury designer — to make modern, conceptual or intellectually resonating clothes. Instead, he makes straightforward commercial fashion that a woman can instantly relate to. I’m no fan of Slimane’s, but he’s clever. In two years as creative chief, he has barely broken a sweat as he fetches another pussy bow from the ’60s time capsule. Last year, Saint Laurent led Kering’s three biggest luxury brands in revenue growth with an 18 percent rise, beating Gucci and Bottega Veneta. He has also defeated his critics, who no doubt sensed the futility of continuing to point out that he doesn’t seem to be trying very hard to be inventive.”
Fashion is an effigy of our times. And, that must be acknowledged by Horyn, Slimane is in tune with the times with his work for Saint Laurent. With his simplification for fashion, his triumphal branding.
Slimane is more of a marketing-genius than a designer. Maybe that is the future. Is the genius designer, who is craving after innovation, always searching after something ‘new’ a discontinued model? Is it going to be the marketing-experts, who are ruling the future of fashion. Currently it seems like it.
You can read the complete article by Horyn here.
For her current collection C://LANA/DESKTOP, the native Romanian used symbolics of the virtual world again. She printed the trash-symbol, which you should also have on your desktop somewhere, as symbols for the loud-speakers and loupe on neoprene-sweaters with USB-cables.
Above the trash-print a daily question appears: Are you sure you want to permanently erase the Items in the Trash? (You can’t undo this action)? In this context, printed on a sweater, worn by a human, this question nearly becomes philosophical.
You can view all collections by our favourite CYBERGIRL from Transylvania, here.
Working on a new project!
About one year ago the fame of ‘Mike the Ruler’ started. The 14-year old upper-east kid was hanging around at events by VFiles and at raves by the A$AP mob, and presented himself on Instagram in Rick Owens total-looks.
The Instagram hype about ‘Mike the Ruler’ started. In an interview, which VFiles arranged with him, Mike showed his, unusual for his age, impressive knowledge about fashion. He talked about Rick Owens fashion shows in 2007 (!) and told that he just wrote his homework about the topic ‘Helmut Lang vs. Calvin Klein’.
His favourite brands are, next to Rick Owens, the New York-based street-wear avant-garde brands - #BEENTRILL, HBA, TELFAR and Eckhaus Latta, a brand, which fashion is described by the young expert as ‘conceptual’. The pocket-money for those high-fashion labels is probably provided by his mom. She works as a lawyer.
Mike found his passion for fashion in 2011. His dad took him to an Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition. Mike Hope then became the fashion-lover ‘Mike the Ruler’.
Whenever Mike goes to an event, then he always takes a second outfit with him in his backpack, which he puts on, when he is bored. He simply owns the selfie-game (Mike is posing with the A$AP Mob like he never did something else). And ‘the Ruler’ probably happens to know more about fashion then most German fashion-journalists.
Without questioning: ‘Mike the Ruler’ has more then earned, to be our youngest ”Dandy of Week”!
Photos: via www.housetribeca.com