Pissed-off preambule: although the ZEIT-MAGAZINE’ has the most populist and hilarious Facebook account that’s ever appeared on timeline, it never held one back from buying DIE ZEIT. Still, reading every next post, i’m close to sending the social-media editors a maxi-letter full of shit .
Actual post: Anyways. This is now about something else, really – about an article on FRONT, the, as they say, legendary Hamburg house-club. That was, if we may believe the stylist Klaus Stockhausen, the first club in Germany, where house was played (by Stockhausen himself, of course).
On the occasion of the 30th anniversary of the club which has existed since 1997 ZEIT MAGAZINE asked some witnesses (hohoho!) – which wouldn’t be very interesting to our little fashion blog if eyewitnesses weren’t big names in German fashion business now. Among others, Klaus Stockhausen (the fashion editor of German INTERVIEW MAGAZINE) and Christiane Arp (head of the German VOGUE) have their say.
The highly erotic Christiane Arp remembers it as follows:
“I just danced though the night. Sometimes i took off the high heels, although i was actually born in them. I wore sweatshirts with collars cut out so that they’d hang on the shoulders. But comparing to guys, all of us girls looked pretty old..”
Also Stockhausen, who we find slightly less erotic, remembers of fashion in FRONT:
“I still remember pioneers dancing in Junior Gaultier and Yamamoto, in shoulder-wide suits that they refused to take off. It was a time when fashion occupied the streets. People saved up for a piece from Comme des Garçons or Mugler. British magazines like Blitz or Face were read. It was all non-german, just like the club: absolutely not German.”
You can read the whole article online (in German)- and find out after reading, that Berghain already once existed in Germany. In the eighties in Hamburg.
DANDY DIARY Nature-Trip
A few weeks ago, it was announced that three of the most important shoe-designers at NIKE are going to transit to ADIDAS. The hard bitch-move, on NIKE’s costs, had an effect:
NIKE is suing the designers Marc Dolce, Mark Miner and Denis Dekovic for, all in all, 10 million US-dollars. The accusation is that they have already been consulting ADIDAS while working at NIKE and stole company kept secrets, like the design for a new shoe-model and gave it to their new employer.
It is also interesting, that the three were accused of stealing documents from NIKEs ‘kitchen’, the strictly kept-secret design-lab that NIKE is running in Beaverton (Oregon, USA). A similar design-house is suppose to be build by Dolce, Miner and Dekovic, beginning in September 2015, for ADIDAS in Brooklyn. Coincidence? Well.
Insiders therefore suppose that ADIDAS is going to carry the costs for the trial, direct or indirect. Because even for a top-designer, 10 million dollars are a lot of cash, it is only a mild fart in the hand of ADIDAS.
The Portland Business Journal has created, based on the plaint by NIKE, a chronology of the incidents, which could also be a great screen-play for a nerve-racking economy-thriller:
October 3, 2005: Nike hires Dolce as senior designer for Active Life. He signs a non-compete and secrecy agreement.
November 2005: Nike hires Dekovic as a senior designer.
2007: Nike promotes Dolce to design director for Nike Sportswear.
March 2008: Nike hires Miner as a footwear designer in Women’s Training. He signs a secrecy agreement.
2011: Nike promotes Miner to senior footwear designer for running. He signs a non-compete agreement.
2012: Nike starts a $1.5 million effort known as “Keep It Tight” to prevent leaks of confidential information.
February 7, 2012: Nike promotes Dekovic to design director for Global Football (soccer). He signs a non-compete agreement. Dekovic also signed a secrecy agreement on April 16, 2007.
2014: Nike promotes Dekovic to senior design director.
March 2014: Brian Foresta, Adidas vice president of design for global basketball, contacts Dolce andDekovic to “discuss professional careers,” according to Nike.
April 2014: Nike claims the designers start a “plot” to leave and take trade secrets. Nike further claimsDekovic, Dolce and Miner bought “thousands of phony social media followers” in order to create “false perception of buzz and popularity” and make themselves more attractive to future employers.
April 29, 2014: Dekovic tells Miner and Dolce to use his personal email address for further communications, according to Nike.
May 18, 2014: Dekovic and Dolce agree on a plan to pay for Instagram and Twitter followers, according to Nike.
May 2014: Nike agrees to pay more than $50,000 in relocation expenses so Dekovic can more his family to Italy. Nike quotes an electronic communication from Dekovic in which he says Italy is one of those “countries where (Nike’s) non compete is difficult to enforce.”
June 2014: Dekovic, Dolce and Miner are “fully engaged” in discussions with officials at Adidas to start a design center modeled after Nike’s innovation lab, which is known as the Kitchen, according to Nike.
June 2014: Dekovic, Dolce and Miner start work for Adidas as consultants while still employed at Nike, according to Nike.
June 29, 2014: Dekovic meets with Adidas Vice President Brian Foresta to talk about the design center.
June 2014: Dekovic, Dolce and Miner raise concerns about legal consequences of consulting for Adidas, according to Nike.
June 21, 2014: Dekovic sends a copy of his Nike non-compete agreement to Adidas.
July 2014: Dekovic and his family move to Italy.
Aug. 22, 2014: Adidas presents Dekovic, Dolce and Miner “lucrative” employment offers, according to Nike.
September 16, 2014: Dekovic copies hard drive of his Nike-issued laptop, according to Nike.
September 19, 2014: Dolce emails confidential Nike design plans to his personal email account, according to Nike.
September 22, 2014: Last day of employment for Dekovic, Dolce and Miner at Nike.
December 8, 2014: Nike files $10 million lawsuit for breach of contract and misappropriation of trade secrets, among other claims.
DANDY DIARY x KANGAROOS ‘Streaker Sneaker’ – Voo Store Launch
A few years ago, streetstyle-experts started wearing their jackets or coats around their shoulders, instead of putting their arms through their sleeves. The technical term for that is ‘coat slinging’.
Recently, the german newspaper BUNTE (!) reported about the styling-trend. ‘Coat slinging’ therefore officially became a ‘no-go’. So: dear friends with good taste, please stick your arms in your sleeves from now on.
Because a sleeve without an arm, is like Justin O’Shea without Veronika, like Cara Delevigne without eyebrows: somehow not complete.
In 2008, Scott Schuman (aka: The Sartorialist) has revealed the first case of ‘coat slinging’ on his blog, afterwards an epidemic broke out, from which the fashion-world still has not recovered.
It has been enough: put your jackets on properly again! Otherwise you appear like a gay fashion-journalist from 2010 (who would put his arms into sleeves nowadays)