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Reading Tip: Front-Club – How We Danced (Zeit Magazine)

Pissed-off preambule: although the ZEIT-MAGAZINE’ has the most populist and hilarious Facebook account that’s ever appeared on timeline, it never held one back from buying DIE ZEIT. Still, reading every next post, i’m close to sending the social-media editors a maxi-letter full of shit .

Actual post: Anyways. This is now about something else, really – about an article on FRONT, the, as they say, legendary Hamburg house-club. That was, if we may believe the stylist Klaus Stockhausen, the first club in Germany, where house was played (by Stockhausen himself, of course).

On the occasion of the 30th anniversary of the club which has existed since 1997 ZEIT MAGAZINE asked some witnesses (hohoho!) – which wouldn’t be very interesting to our little fashion blog  if eyewitnesses weren’t big names in German fashion business now. Among others, Klaus Stockhausen (the fashion editor of German INTERVIEW MAGAZINE) and Christiane Arp (head of the German VOGUE) have their say.

The highly erotic Christiane Arp remembers it as follows: 

“I just danced though the night. Sometimes i took off the high heels, although i was actually born in them. I wore sweatshirts with collars cut out so that they’d hang on the shoulders. But comparing to guys, all of us girls looked pretty old..”

Also Stockhausen, who we find slightly less erotic, remembers of fashion in FRONT:

“I still remember pioneers dancing in Junior Gaultier and Yamamoto, in shoulder-wide suits that they refused to take off. It was a time when fashion occupied the streets. People saved up for a piece from Comme des Garçons or Mugler. British magazines like Blitz or Face were read. It was all non-german, just like the club: absolutely not German.”

You can read the whole article online (in German)- and find out after reading, that Berghain already once existed in Germany. In the eighties in Hamburg. 

Von: Jakob

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London Collections: Men – Schedule

On the 9th of january is is finally happening: the fashion show circus. 

As usual it starts with the London Collections: Men (9th – 12th of january). The LC:M has a gigantic potencial. It is growing year by year. For the AW season 2015, the LC:M is expanded by one day. 

All in all, 60 labels are taking part during the men’s fashion week. New in participating: the accessory-label Universal-Works, Nigel Cabourn and the Danish mens-wear label SOULLAND. Already last season, Silas Adler from SOULLAND resigned from hosting a show during the Copenhagen fashion week, now taking part in London. 

Here are the DANDY DIARY highlights during the London Collections: Men:

Friday, 9th of january, 3 PM: MAN Shows:                                                                                                                            The initiative by TOPMAN and Fashion EAST is the very platform for young talents. A complete list of today’s successful fashion-designers, who started with the MAN shows, would burst the blog-spot (among them: Astrid Andersen, JW Andersen, Agi & Sam and, and, and). In january Disney-fan Bobby Abley, Nicomeda Talavera and Liam Hodges, whom we introduced recently, are going to present their fashion during the MAN shows. 

Friday, 9th of january, 3.30 PM: KIT NEALE                                                                                                                                                        KIT NEALE is at the beginning of his career. But his installations and designs are bristling of the amount of ideas and humour, therefore a ‘Must-Go’ during the LC:M. Our favourite piece by KIT NEALE: a sweater, on which he – in the style of street-rug – eternalised his London hood Peckham. Let’s see, what funny things he thought of for his AW 2015 collection.     

Saturday, 10th of january, 12.00 AM, ASTRID ANDERSEN                                                                                                               ASTRID ANDERSEN designs sportluxe-designs. A mix of conventional sportswear-pieces (tank-tops, tracksuits and basketball-shorts) and luxurious materials, as mink. Her tank-tops with laces are legendary. A fusion between compressed man-hood and femininity. Since her design-cooperation with TOPMAN, there was another massive boom for the Danish designer when it comes to popularity. 

Sunday, 11th of january, 2PM, MOSCHINO                                                                                                                    We are not amazed by everything that is done by MOSCHINO‘s designer Jeremy Scott. Either his designs (and: ideas behind it) are extremely genius or crazily off target, but never boring, therefore don’t miss it. 

Monday, 12th of january, 11:00 AM, CRAIG GREEN                                                                                                     
CRAIG GREEN has earned his skills at the famous Central Saint Martins College. He originally studied art at the CSM, but at some point he discovered his – thank god – passion for fashion. His last fashion shows at the LC:M caused big emotions. The front-row was crying, fashion journalist Tim Blanks mentioned a ‘fashion moment’.

Monday, 12th of january, 5 PM, NASIR MAZHAR                                                                                                        
NASIR MAZHAR, London’s ‘KING OF COOLNESS’. The ex-hair-dresser has accomplished what other famous brands are after for decades: to create his own world (music, fashion. lifestyle). He influenced the chavy sportswear-look. Mazhar has been sending out muscular boys and ghetto-chics on the catwalk, while playing consequent hard hip hop tracks, for many seasons. ALL hip kids worship him. We do so too, of-course. 

The (complete) schedule for the London Collections: Men can found here.

Von: Julian

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Lumbersexuality – simply fat, old Hipster!

After metrosexuality and spornosexuality, is it lumbersexuality going to be in?

Media as The GuardianThe Daily Beast and Buzzfeed presented ‘lumbersexual’ as the ‘next big thing’. Men with enormous beards and bellies in lumber-shirts, in work-boots, with wool-beanies on their heads and a freshly tapped beer in their hand.

But is that really the new trend? Men, who combine checked patterns with checked patterns, and who look like they have chucked some trees in the wood. No, not really. The look has been existing in the gay-scene for years (‘bears’ or ‘cubs’).

Plus we already know about the core-elements of the look (beard, lumber-shirt) from the hipster-scene. The picture (view the photo), which was used to express lumber-sexuality in a photo, has also been used to present the usual example of a hipster to their readers.

The hipster already was an anti-movement to the metro. The man became a man again. Sun-studios, picked eye-browes or shaved chests – all in all a no-go for the hipster. ‘Lumbersexuality’ is therefore no new anti-movement to metrosexuality, as it is celebrated in the media, but simply a continuation of the hipster-movement.

Therefore an old, fat hipster, who is drinking beer the whole day and who is just to distinguish by experts of ‘gay bears’. Therefore: no ‘next big thing’!

Von: Julian

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Thanks to @kinderandtank for keeping us warm

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