Pissed-off preambule: although the ZEIT-MAGAZINE’ has the most populist and hilarious Facebook account that’s ever appeared on timeline, it never held one back from buying DIE ZEIT. Still, reading every next post, i’m close to sending the social-media editors a maxi-letter full of shit .
Actual post: Anyways. This is now about something else, really – about an article on FRONT, the, as they say, legendary Hamburg house-club. That was, if we may believe the stylist Klaus Stockhausen, the first club in Germany, where house was played (by Stockhausen himself, of course).
On the occasion of the 30th anniversary of the club which has existed since 1997 ZEIT MAGAZINE asked some witnesses (hohoho!) – which wouldn’t be very interesting to our little fashion blog if eyewitnesses weren’t big names in German fashion business now. Among others, Klaus Stockhausen (the fashion editor of German INTERVIEW MAGAZINE) and Christiane Arp (head of the German VOGUE) have their say.
The highly erotic Christiane Arp remembers it as follows:
“I just danced though the night. Sometimes i took off the high heels, although i was actually born in them. I wore sweatshirts with collars cut out so that they’d hang on the shoulders. But comparing to guys, all of us girls looked pretty old..”
Also Stockhausen, who we find slightly less erotic, remembers of fashion in FRONT:
“I still remember pioneers dancing in Junior Gaultier and Yamamoto, in shoulder-wide suits that they refused to take off. It was a time when fashion occupied the streets. People saved up for a piece from Comme des Garçons or Mugler. British magazines like Blitz or Face were read. It was all non-german, just like the club: absolutely not German.”
You can read the whole article online (in German)- and find out after reading, that Berghain already once existed in Germany. In the eighties in Hamburg.
New York, New York!
One can say whatever he wants about the obsolete skinny-silhouette, the always-same leather jackets or the steady recourse to the 1970s and glam-rock: people are buying that shit.
Since Hedi Slimane became the creative director at SAINT LAURENT three years ago, the sales have doubled. Only in 2014 the annual sales climbed up to 27 percent to 707 million dollars – that has been released by the luxury concern KERING, to which Saint Laurent belongs.
For forward-approached and avant-gardistic fashion that is not much of a good sign.
It is going to be interesting to see, if GUCCI is going to proceed after the same principle. The Italian label is by far the biggest brand under the KERING-concern, with 3,5 billion dollars of sales per year – and has a new creative director, Alessandro Michele, since this year.
Our Hero: Pierre Debusschere
We are urgently asking for jackets, pants or sweaters, which carry an uncountable amount of patches.
Since we do not have time, nor the passion for a fabulous DIY-piece, were hereby want to ask all the PR-agencies on the planet to send us designs by their fashion-designers, which have patches on them (you can find the address in our legal info)
As often, Raf Simons was the pioneer of the trend ‘patches’. Or at least the designer, who’s influence can also be found in the collections by other designers. Simons showed designs in his SS 2015 collection, which showed images of personal memories (friends, family, astronauts, sharks etc.). He used the patches as some sort of mood board.
Kit Neale and Astrid Andersen have refined their pants with patches in their current collections (AW 2015). Sandro PARIS did the same with their already mega-hot leather jackets. And the Danish young designer Martin Mitchell made a jeans-vest.
The rule ‘the more the better’ counts of-course also for the patches trend! Go for it!
As usual terrifc setdesign at Henrik Vibskov!
HOOD BY AIR presented their new collection ‘Daddy’ in a cellar-like setting at the Wall Street, the centrum of finance.
The mastermind behind HBA, Shayne Oliver, showed classics from the world of fashion, like button-down shirts, sweaters and polo t-shirts in the typical unisex Hood by Air Silhouette. Therefore it came to an hybrid between polo shirt and dress. Or camel coat and tank top.
The models wore locks in-front of their mouths and tights over their heads, like burglars. The soundtrack of the show, total freedom, was ended drastically, followed by jazz, underlined with the statement of the Empire:
“I wanna show you a faggot really can run this company”.
It becomes obvious how appreciated HBA is also in the art-world, when looking at the guests who attended the show, for example Klaus Biesenbach and Grace Coddington.
It seems that HBA, even after the diss by their once supporter A$AP ROCKY, is still very hip.