Want to dress like rich kid wannabe Rockstars in their teenage years in 2005 next spring and summer? Well then you should go buy the entire Menswear collection by SAINT LAURENT. Everyone else, don’t touch it.
Because you see, in those years the new SAINT LAURENT designer, Hedi Slimane, dedicated his efforts and time to taking pictures of scrawny boys, men’s fashion evolved.
The times when Slimane invented the men’s collections for fashion label DIOR with it’s ultra slim cut trousers that prompted Karl Lagerfeld to go on a strict diet are over.
Now, others set the tone in the industry, including Slimane’s arch rival Raf Simmons. His menswear collection for JIL SANDER even sold better than the women’s fashion and he just took over as Creative Director at DIOR. A job Slimane would have wanted to do as well, insiders say. This, in turn was probably prevented by Karl Lagerfeld. Slimane once said he doesn’t care much for Lagerfed’s opinion. The white-haired godfather wasn’t exactly happy about that and subsequently followed up with Bernard Arnault, LVMH CEO, i.e. ruler of DIOR and FENDI (head designer: Karl Lagerfeld) to intervene and prevent Slimane from getting appointed. Since then he’s been pointing out relentlessly that it was him who established the skinny look for men, and not Raf Simons, his enemy.
Maybe it’s the obsession with his own legacy that’s making him blind for current trends and change – and for a new image of men.
Today we’re seeing an increase in more defined silhouettes again in men’s fashion. While Slimanes boys are still wearing narrow-shouldered leather jackets in the SAINT-LAURENT designs for 2013, the shoulders in the other designs in the industry are moving outward and become broader. And while the entire world of fashion world is working with sneakers, Slimane is yet again recommending Chelsea boots for the upcoming year. That leaves a very outdated impression that’s almost anachronistic and somehow disgustingly self-referential.
What can we say? Besides the excellent gossip he’s currently producing Slimane is a huge letdown.
That’s too bad, but perhaps we’re in for something again. At some point.*
*After this blog post it’s most likely not going to be an invitation to his next show however. We’re aware of that.
Today the people of Scotland are deciding in a referendum, if they want to be independent, or want to continue being a part of the British kingdom. Ex-corner-and-free-kick-specialist and fashion icon David Beckham has militated against the split-off of Scotland in an open later.
‘Becks’ says, watch out, get your tissues, because now it is getting emotional: that Scotland and England have more in common, then what separates them.VIVIENNE WESTWOOD apparently has a different opinion:
Westwood sent her models on the catwalk, at her Red Label SS 2015 show during London fashion week, with blue ‘YES’ buttons, which were pinned on hats and revers.
Westwood, who’s always used her fashion shows as a platform for political messages, also put notes on the chairs of the guests before the show, which had the following statement on them:
‘I am so excited. I hope that the Scots will win. It could be the turning point towards a better world. They could lead by example.’ Backstage, after the show, her words in-favour of the split-off of Scotland, were even clearer: ‘I hate England … I like Scotland because somehow I think they are better than we are. They are more democratic.’
The fashion by Vivienne Westwood – doesn’t matter in which line – has crossed its zenith. When Vivienne’s pieces become fashion (again), then it’s mostly old ideas, like the ‘Mountain Hat’, which are becoming successful again.
But – if you are not considering her fashion – it is fascinating with what kind of radicalness Westwood is combining fashion in politics, although her high age (73 years). She knows how to use fashion as a platform for her opinion, as well as hardly anyone else in the fashion business.
Opel-Gang in Riga!
DANDY DIARY X TRACHTEN ANGERMAIER – Oktoberfest Leather Shorts
At the beginning of the year, ADIDAS announced a collaboration together with Pharrell Williams, that shouldn’t be a one-season-thing.
The cooperation between the Herzogenaurach-based sports-article producer and the US musician is going to be a fixed thing, beyond a few season, is the declaration. The first pictures – more or less a preview – have been crossing the net today.
Two classics have been dared by Pharrell: the super-star training-jacket with the iconic Adidas-stripes and the Stan Smith – both items are going to be available in red, blue and black.
The jacket will cost about 1000 Dollar, the Stan Smith 150 Dollar. From the 20th of september on, the first pieces of the collaboration will be delivered to selected sneaker-stores, concept-stores and adidas originals flagship stores.