Want to dress like rich kid wannabe Rockstars in their teenage years in 2005 next spring and summer? Well then you should go buy the entire Menswear collection by SAINT LAURENT. Everyone else, don’t touch it.
Because you see, in those years the new SAINT LAURENT designer, Hedi Slimane, dedicated his efforts and time to taking pictures of scrawny boys, men’s fashion evolved.
The times when Slimane invented the men’s collections for fashion label DIOR with it’s ultra slim cut trousers that prompted Karl Lagerfeld to go on a strict diet are over.
Now, others set the tone in the industry, including Slimane’s arch rival Raf Simmons. His menswear collection for JIL SANDER even sold better than the women’s fashion and he just took over as Creative Director at DIOR. A job Slimane would have wanted to do as well, insiders say. This, in turn was probably prevented by Karl Lagerfeld. Slimane once said he doesn’t care much for Lagerfed’s opinion. The white-haired godfather wasn’t exactly happy about that and subsequently followed up with Bernard Arnault, LVMH CEO, i.e. ruler of DIOR and FENDI (head designer: Karl Lagerfeld) to intervene and prevent Slimane from getting appointed. Since then he’s been pointing out relentlessly that it was him who established the skinny look for men, and not Raf Simons, his enemy.
Maybe it’s the obsession with his own legacy that’s making him blind for current trends and change – and for a new image of men.
Today we’re seeing an increase in more defined silhouettes again in men’s fashion. While Slimanes boys are still wearing narrow-shouldered leather jackets in the SAINT-LAURENT designs for 2013, the shoulders in the other designs in the industry are moving outward and become broader. And while the entire world of fashion world is working with sneakers, Slimane is yet again recommending Chelsea boots for the upcoming year. That leaves a very outdated impression that’s almost anachronistic and somehow disgustingly self-referential.
What can we say? Besides the excellent gossip he’s currently producing Slimane is a huge letdown.
That’s too bad, but perhaps we’re in for something again. At some point.*
*After this blog post it’s most likely not going to be an invitation to his next show however. We’re aware of that.
On a daily-bases, press-releases by labels are reaching us, which have specialised in the production of sunglasses out of wood.
They are boasting themselves with sustainability. Are praising their work with totally funny slogans like ‘Woody since 2012′, ‘In Wood We Trust’ or ‘Done by nature, designed for your eyes’.
All die Holzbrillen-Designs von Marken wie Kerbholz, Stadtholz, Wood Fellas, WOODONE, ROLF Spectacles, Eric Lauer, Enzo Forciniti, Scherler oder Zeitgeist Berlin tun das nicht.
The Berlin-based label with the original name ‘Stadtholz’ is assuring that one ‘really has a piece of nature on their nose’, when purchasing their glasses.
But does one want that?! Having a piece of nature on your nose, when it looks bad. Sustainability is great and all. But fashion is mainly about design. And that should look good.
Plus, there is nothing more annoying than labels, who are massively pining ‘sustainability’ on their flag. Most of the times it is exactly those labels, who have as much to do with sustainability as bumm-bumm-Boris with the smart usage of Twitter. Not a lot.
Kris Van Assche will mainly concentrate on his work for DIOR HOMME. The Belgian designer announced the end of his label through a hand-written letter which he gave to his business partners and the press.
‘Times are tough for independent labels.’, Van Assche said to WWD. ‘This wonderful adventure has reached a point where I feel the need to take a break and some distance to better think about how to develop my brand in the future.’
We will miss the sporty-but-buttoned-up aesthetics by KRISVANASSCHE!
Getting Bananas ¿+’!
Next big Thing: Grace Wales Bonner
HOOD BY AIR presented their new collection ‘Daddy’ in a cellar-like setting at the Wall Street, the centrum of finance.
The mastermind behind HBA, Shayne Oliver, showed classics from the world of fashion, like button-down shirts, sweaters and polo t-shirts in the typical unisex Hood by Air Silhouette. Therefore it came to an hybrid between polo shirt and dress. Or camel coat and tank top.
The models wore locks in-front of their mouths and tights over their heads, like burglars. The soundtrack of the show, total freedom, was ended drastically, followed by jazz, underlined with the statement of the Empire:
“I wanna show you a faggot really can run this company”.
It becomes obvious how appreciated HBA is also in the art-world, when looking at the guests who attended the show, for example Klaus Biesenbach and Grace Coddington.
It seems that HBA, even after the diss by their once supporter A$AP ROCKY, is still very hip.