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Big Disappointment: SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE – Spring/Summer 2013 Collection

 

Want to dress like rich kid wannabe Rockstars in their teenage years in 2005 next spring and summer? Well then you should go buy the entire Menswear collection by SAINT LAURENT. Everyone else, don’t touch it.

 Because you see, in those years the new SAINT LAURENT designer, Hedi Slimane, dedicated his efforts and time to taking pictures of scrawny boys, men’s fashion evolved.

The times when Slimane invented the men’s collections for fashion label DIOR with it’s ultra slim cut trousers that prompted Karl Lagerfeld to go on a strict diet are over.

Now, others set the tone in the industry, including Slimane’s arch rival Raf Simmons. His menswear collection for JIL SANDER even sold better than the women’s fashion and he just took over as Creative Director at DIOR. A job Slimane would have wanted to do as well, insiders say. This, in turn was probably prevented by Karl Lagerfeld. Slimane once said he doesn’t care much for Lagerfed’s opinion. The white-haired godfather wasn’t exactly happy about that and subsequently followed up with Bernard Arnault, LVMH CEO, i.e. ruler of  DIOR and FENDI (head designer: Karl Lagerfeld) to intervene and prevent Slimane from getting appointed. Since then he’s been pointing out relentlessly that it was him who established the skinny look for men, and not Raf Simons, his enemy.

Maybe it’s the obsession with his own legacy that’s making him blind for current trends and change – and for a new image of men.

Today we’re seeing an increase in more defined silhouettes again in men’s fashion. While Slimanes  boys are still wearing narrow-shouldered leather jackets in the SAINT-LAURENT designs for 2013, the shoulders in the other designs in the industry are moving outward and become broader. And while the entire world of fashion world is working with sneakers, Slimane is yet again recommending Chelsea boots for the upcoming year. That leaves a very outdated impression that’s almost anachronistic and somehow disgustingly self-referential.

What can we say? Besides the excellent gossip he’s currently producing Slimane is a huge letdown.

That’s too bad, but perhaps we’re in for something again. At some point.*

 

*After this blog post it’s most likely not going to be an invitation to his next show however. We’re aware of that.

Photos: Hypebeast.com

Von: Jakob

LOOKS

LOOKBOOKS

 

New collection: PALACE Skateboards

In the last years, skateboarding had had a gigantic revival.

The coolest of all the cool skateboard-labels is PALACE SKATEBOARDS. There is a true cult about the label by Lev Tanju.

Also celebs like A$AP Rocky love PALACE. Unlike conventional fashion labels, PALACE does not seem to be dependent of seasons.

A few days ago, pictures of the new collection were published on Style.com.

Furthermore, uber-boss Tanju announced that the first PALACE skateboard store, ‘eva’, will open on the 25th of april in London (Brewer Street 26).

Records, skateboards and PALACE designs will be available to shop at the store. Tanjus concept: ‘Real low numbers and really well made’.

 

NEWS

 

Design your Adilettes yourself ::: mi adidas

FINALLY! After the rapper Aykut Anhan, who we all just know as his much more dangerous name ‘Haftbefehl’, has his own bro-sandals in the adiletten-style, it is now also possible for ordinary mortals like us to do so – and even with the original:

ADIDAS has added the very hip adilettes to his ‘mi adidas’-program, which means that one can design the plastic sandals himself.

Letters are not available (yet?) as prints, but at-least the colours for the straps, soles and stripes can be individually designed. At-least.

Follow here to get to the configuration, bro. It only costs 34,95 euros. Para-para! ‘Ob 5er Bündel oder an Stücken Geld.’ (Haftbefehl, 2014)

Von: Julian

SPECIAL

 

‘Den Plettende Gris’ – A Visit to HENRIK VIBSKOVs Cafe in Copenhagen

The most beautiful cafe in Copenhagen is located at the up and coming island Papirøen and is owned by the fashion designer Henrik Vibskov. I know that, because I was there – and that is not obvious.

The long Danish man does not seem to care about people knowing about ‘Den Plettede Gris’ . Only a few insiders in the city and the cafes close neighbours, know about it.

Vibskov had to open the cafe a few months ago. It has not been his dream, but an obligation by his landlord. Because Vibs wanted to have his design studio in the same building, he had to promise the landlord to also make the house accessible for the public and therefore to open a cafe.

And the designer did so, even if he had some issues with that: During winter, the industrial area, which is located directly at the water, is hardly populated. Even the close-by design-university with it’s hundreds of hip students does not change that. The maximum of ten seats at the cafe are rather inviting for a short stay. The actual popular places are the outdoor places directly at the bridges platforms. But there one prefers to be during summer. Who has been at a fashion show by Vibskov during winter, at the close-by located warehouses, knows how brutally cold it can get.

Since he had no other choice, Vibskov still opened the cafe, despite his doubts. That he had to personally visit a hygiene-course and had to deal with the art of making coffee, has been grouchily accepted.

The special interior of the 14 square meter small cafe apparently has been the smallest issue. The inspiration came from the inside of a piano. That is why there are ropes everywhere, which are reminding one of strings and wooden pieces, which seem like a keyboard. Similar designs were presented at fashion shows by Vibskov in Copenhagen and Paris.

The menu of ‘Den Plettede Gris’ is similar Scandinavian direct, as the master himself. There is coffee, tea, water, beer and wine. No snack, no breakfast, no frills.

Vibskov preferes to drink his coffee black anyway.

Den Plettede Gris ::: Trangravsvej 5 ::: Copenhagen ::: Mo-Fr 9am-6pm ::: Sa-So 10am-6pm

TRENDS

 

Trend: Baggy-Pants (and the End of Sweat-Pants)

Sweat-pants are still super hip. There is no high fashion-label, that does not offer one of these very expensive, un-formed pants. And especially also H&M, Zara and all the other affordable retailers. Everybody is wearing them and currently one can’t do anything wrong by wearing them. Who decides to stick the pants into his socks, is at the very front.

Even further are the cool-cats among you, who have already discovered the next pants-trend: Baggy-pants.

This trend does obviously have it’s origin in the raging 90s trend, therefore a time, before Hedi Slimane even explained to Karl Lagerfeld, that one is only allowed to wear very tight skinny jeans from now on, in the year of 2000.

SKINNY JEANS WERE COOL THE DAY BEFORE YESTERDAY, SWEAT-PANTS YESTERDAY, TODAY BAGGY-PANTS RULE

GUCCI and MARC JACOBS have presented rather wide, straight-cut pants at their shows for autumn/winter 2015 (view the picture), as well as the brands A.P.C. and BOTTEGA VENETA. And also the influential blog Hypebeast has recently reported about the shift of sweat-pants to baggy-pants (and it’s influence on wearing sneakers). The trend is a topic for several players in the fashion-industry – which is a good sign for seeing it soon on the street.

When exactly the look is going to be seen there, is mainly depending on the question if the massively hip Hip Hop scene os going to pick up on their old looks and is going to wear baggies instead of tight skinny jeans and comfortable sweat-pants. After-all, rappers like A$AP Rocky, the gang from ODD FUTURE and Kanye West are important promoters for new trends in men’s fashion.

We think that this trend – which should be clear – is definitely dam’n cool and will try everything to adapt our closets to the baggy pants trend.

Von: Julian

VIDEO

FASHION SHOWS

 

New York Fashion Week: Hood by Air AW 2015

HOOD BY AIR presented their new collection ‘Daddy’ in a cellar-like setting at the Wall Street, the centrum of finance.

The mastermind behind HBA, Shayne Oliver, showed classics from the world of fashion, like button-down shirts, sweaters and polo t-shirts in the typical unisex Hood by Air Silhouette. Therefore it came to an hybrid between polo shirt and dress. Or camel coat and tank top.

The models wore locks in-front of their mouths and tights over their heads, like burglars. The soundtrack of the show, total freedom, was ended drastically, followed by jazz, underlined with the statement of the Empire:

“I wanna show you a faggot really can run this company”.

It becomes obvious how appreciated HBA is also in the art-world, when looking at the guests who attended the show, for example Klaus Biesenbach and Grace Coddington.

It seems that HBA, even after the diss by their once supporter A$AP ROCKY, is still very hip.

 

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