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Big Disappointment: SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE – Spring/Summer 2013 Collection

 

Want to dress like rich kid wannabe Rockstars in their teenage years in 2005 next spring and summer? Well then you should go buy the entire Menswear collection by SAINT LAURENT. Everyone else, don’t touch it.

 Because you see, in those years the new SAINT LAURENT designer, Hedi Slimane, dedicated his efforts and time to taking pictures of scrawny boys, men’s fashion evolved.

The times when Slimane invented the men’s collections for fashion label DIOR with it’s ultra slim cut trousers that prompted Karl Lagerfeld to go on a strict diet are over.

Now, others set the tone in the industry, including Slimane’s arch rival Raf Simmons. His menswear collection for JIL SANDER even sold better than the women’s fashion and he just took over as Creative Director at DIOR. A job Slimane would have wanted to do as well, insiders say. This, in turn was probably prevented by Karl Lagerfeld. Slimane once said he doesn’t care much for Lagerfed’s opinion. The white-haired godfather wasn’t exactly happy about that and subsequently followed up with Bernard Arnault, LVMH CEO, i.e. ruler of  DIOR and FENDI (head designer: Karl Lagerfeld) to intervene and prevent Slimane from getting appointed. Since then he’s been pointing out relentlessly that it was him who established the skinny look for men, and not Raf Simons, his enemy.

Maybe it’s the obsession with his own legacy that’s making him blind for current trends and change – and for a new image of men.

Today we’re seeing an increase in more defined silhouettes again in men’s fashion. While Slimanes  boys are still wearing narrow-shouldered leather jackets in the SAINT-LAURENT designs for 2013, the shoulders in the other designs in the industry are moving outward and become broader. And while the entire world of fashion world is working with sneakers, Slimane is yet again recommending Chelsea boots for the upcoming year. That leaves a very outdated impression that’s almost anachronistic and somehow disgustingly self-referential.

What can we say? Besides the excellent gossip he’s currently producing Slimane is a huge letdown.

That’s too bad, but perhaps we’re in for something again. At some point.*

 

*After this blog post it’s most likely not going to be an invitation to his next show however. We’re aware of that.

Photos: Hypebeast.com

Von: Jakob

LOOKBOOKS

TRENDS

 

London’s Grime Revival

A few hours before the Brit Awards 2015, according to the legend, SKEPTA received a call by Kanye West.

YEEZUS asked the hottest UK Grime artist to collect his crowd, to be on stage with him during his song ‘All Day’ at the Brits. The underground-movement Grime reached mainstream.

Grime arose in the early years of 2000 in London, from UK garage, dancehall, hip hop and drum and bass. Grime means that MC’s are raggedly rapping, rapid-fire mode to 135 – 140 BPM sounds.

What is happening in London at the moment – music and fashion-wise – is a Grime revival. SKEPTA, who already in the beginning significantly influenced Grime with his ‘Boy Better Know’ crew, went from underground-hero to pop icon. The East London phenomena Grime is becoming a global export-good.

Fashion has always had an important role in Grime. In Garage, which is the origin of Grime, people always wore show-off labels as Moschino, Versace or Iceberg. Expensive brands, which East London kids couldn’t afford. Therefore they weren’t allowed to access clubs.

They wore the uniform of the street: caps, sweat-suits and sneakers and started their own movement – away from the Garage clubs – at Grime raves, which kept being stopped by the police.

‘The man’ of the revival – Skepta – has produced the soundtrack from the SS 2015 collection by NASIR MAZHAR. At the Nasir Mazhar after party, SKEPTA rocked the audience with his ‘Boy Better Know’ crew.

Music and fashion-wise, Skepta is role model for an entire generation. His look is exemplary for the second wave of Grime. He is wearing NIKE hoodies of the combat-line, New Era Lake Elsinore 59FIFTY Fitted cap (“That’s not me”), NIKE dealer-bags, Slazenger sweater, Helly Hansen jacket and NIKE Air Max 95.

One can study the look of Skepta and his gang by watching the video to ‘Shutdown’. SKEPTA himself is wearing COTTWEILER from head to toe in the music video. Besides there are items by Stone Island, Supreme, Adidas and again and again: NIKE, the probably most important brand of the Grime revival.

There are many overlaps with the internet phenomena Health Goth, where it is also mainly about black performance wear, but GRIME is more gangsta, less sporty, plus it is a movement, where the background plays an important role, also fashion-wise.

Von: Julian

NEWS

 

Zac Posen is the new Patron for the P&C ‘Designer for Tomorrow’ Awards

After Marc Jacobs, Stella McCartney and Tommy Hilfiger, the US-designer Zac Posen is going to be the new patron for the Peek & Cloppenburg “Designer for Tomorrow” awards.

Posen explained that his goal is to actively support the fashion offspring and to pass on his experience and perspectives.

Together with the jury, the New York based fashion designer will pick the top 5 of all the applicants and will announce the ‘Designer for Tomorrow 2015′ on the 9th of july during the Berlin fashion week.

Maybe Posen will succeed in what his famous predecessors failed: to announce a serious ‘Designer for Tomorrow’. Until now, no DfT-winner was able to establish him or herself as an independent designer in the fashion industry.

At the so-called “Hall of Fame”, on the website of the ‘Designer for Tomorrow’, one can look at the winners of the awards, which are happening since 2009. Sam Frenzel, for example, who won in 2009, is now the creative director at the glove manufacturer Roeckl. He is one of the DfT winners, which have had a career after their glorious victory.

Other ‘Designer for Tomorrow’ are sitting behind the sewing machines at Marc Cain or – similarly tragic – have disappeared into the nowheres-land of the industry. The schedule of the last Berlin fashion week only had the name of the largely unknown Iona Ciolacu on it, who won the DfT award in 2013 (and: the sponsored last years winner).

The comprehensible and legit goal of the award by Peek & Cloppenburg for young designers are the public relations for themselves. It would be good for the DfT award, also Peek & Cloppenburg, if one of the DfT-winners would actually ‘make it’.

Why is that?! Because of the selection of designers? The time period and the amount of the funding? Peek & Cloppenburg is supporting the DfT-winner for a year. Too short?

Maybe the P&C team should get consulting by the British colleagues at TOPMAN. TOPMANs young talent-support program MAN is succeeding and beards one hyped designer after the other: J.W. Anderson, Craig Green, Bobby Abley etc.

TOPMAN supports their designers for three seasons. Success on the long run – for the young designers, but also for the supporters themselves – is approached, whereas the shortly lasting PR-coup through a well-known patron is in the foreground at P&C.

But when the patron is becoming less and less spectacular and the success of the supported designers stays inexistent, the concept is doomed to fail. It is time, to rethink.

Photo: Michael Beauplet

Von: Julian

LOOKS

SPECIAL

VIDEO

FASHION SHOWS

 

New York Fashion Week: Hood by Air AW 2015

HOOD BY AIR presented their new collection ‘Daddy’ in a cellar-like setting at the Wall Street, the centrum of finance.

The mastermind behind HBA, Shayne Oliver, showed classics from the world of fashion, like button-down shirts, sweaters and polo t-shirts in the typical unisex Hood by Air Silhouette. Therefore it came to an hybrid between polo shirt and dress. Or camel coat and tank top.

The models wore locks in-front of their mouths and tights over their heads, like burglars. The soundtrack of the show, total freedom, was ended drastically, followed by jazz, underlined with the statement of the Empire:

“I wanna show you a faggot really can run this company”.

It becomes obvious how appreciated HBA is also in the art-world, when looking at the guests who attended the show, for example Klaus Biesenbach and Grace Coddington.

It seems that HBA, even after the diss by their once supporter A$AP ROCKY, is still very hip.

 

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