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Big Disappointment: SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE – Spring/Summer 2013 Collection

 

Want to dress like rich kid wannabe Rockstars in their teenage years in 2005 next spring and summer? Well then you should go buy the entire Menswear collection by SAINT LAURENT. Everyone else, don’t touch it.

 Because you see, in those years the new SAINT LAURENT designer, Hedi Slimane, dedicated his efforts and time to taking pictures of scrawny boys, men’s fashion evolved.

The times when Slimane invented the men’s collections for fashion label DIOR with it’s ultra slim cut trousers that prompted Karl Lagerfeld to go on a strict diet are over.

Now, others set the tone in the industry, including Slimane’s arch rival Raf Simmons. His menswear collection for JIL SANDER even sold better than the women’s fashion and he just took over as Creative Director at DIOR. A job Slimane would have wanted to do as well, insiders say. This, in turn was probably prevented by Karl Lagerfeld. Slimane once said he doesn’t care much for Lagerfed’s opinion. The white-haired godfather wasn’t exactly happy about that and subsequently followed up with Bernard Arnault, LVMH CEO, i.e. ruler of  DIOR and FENDI (head designer: Karl Lagerfeld) to intervene and prevent Slimane from getting appointed. Since then he’s been pointing out relentlessly that it was him who established the skinny look for men, and not Raf Simons, his enemy.

Maybe it’s the obsession with his own legacy that’s making him blind for current trends and change – and for a new image of men.

Today we’re seeing an increase in more defined silhouettes again in men’s fashion. While Slimanes  boys are still wearing narrow-shouldered leather jackets in the SAINT-LAURENT designs for 2013, the shoulders in the other designs in the industry are moving outward and become broader. And while the entire world of fashion world is working with sneakers, Slimane is yet again recommending Chelsea boots for the upcoming year. That leaves a very outdated impression that’s almost anachronistic and somehow disgustingly self-referential.

What can we say? Besides the excellent gossip he’s currently producing Slimane is a huge letdown.

That’s too bad, but perhaps we’re in for something again. At some point.*

 

*After this blog post it’s most likely not going to be an invitation to his next show however. We’re aware of that.

Photos: Hypebeast.com

Von: Jakob

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London Collections: Men – Schedule

On the 9th of january is is finally happening: the fashion show circus. 

As usual it starts with the London Collections: Men (9th – 12th of january). The LC:M has a gigantic potencial. It is growing year by year. For the AW season 2015, the LC:M is expanded by one day. 

All in all, 60 labels are taking part during the men’s fashion week. New in participating: the accessory-label Universal-Works, Nigel Cabourn and the Danish mens-wear label SOULLAND. Already last season, Silas Adler from SOULLAND resigned from hosting a show during the Copenhagen fashion week, now taking part in London. 

Here are the DANDY DIARY highlights during the London Collections: Men:

Friday, 9th of january, 3 PM: MAN Shows:                                                                                                                            The initiative by TOPMAN and Fashion EAST is the very platform for young talents. A complete list of today’s successful fashion-designers, who started with the MAN shows, would burst the blog-spot (among them: Astrid Andersen, JW Andersen, Agi & Sam and, and, and). In january Disney-fan Bobby Abley, Nicomeda Talavera and Liam Hodges, whom we introduced recently, are going to present their fashion during the MAN shows. 

Friday, 9th of january, 3.30 PM: KIT NEALE                                                                                                                                                        KIT NEALE is at the beginning of his career. But his installations and designs are bristling of the amount of ideas and humour, therefore a ‘Must-Go’ during the LC:M. Our favourite piece by KIT NEALE: a sweater, on which he – in the style of street-rug – eternalised his London hood Peckham. Let’s see, what funny things he thought of for his AW 2015 collection.     

Saturday, 10th of january, 12.00 AM, ASTRID ANDERSEN                                                                                                               ASTRID ANDERSEN designs sportluxe-designs. A mix of conventional sportswear-pieces (tank-tops, tracksuits and basketball-shorts) and luxurious materials, as mink. Her tank-tops with laces are legendary. A fusion between compressed man-hood and femininity. Since her design-cooperation with TOPMAN, there was another massive boom for the Danish designer when it comes to popularity. 

Sunday, 11th of january, 2PM, MOSCHINO                                                                                                                    We are not amazed by everything that is done by MOSCHINO‘s designer Jeremy Scott. Either his designs (and: ideas behind it) are extremely genius or crazily off target, but never boring, therefore don’t miss it. 

Monday, 12th of january, 11:00 AM, CRAIG GREEN                                                                                                     
CRAIG GREEN has earned his skills at the famous Central Saint Martins College. He originally studied art at the CSM, but at some point he discovered his – thank god – passion for fashion. His last fashion shows at the LC:M caused big emotions. The front-row was crying, fashion journalist Tim Blanks mentioned a ‘fashion moment’.

Monday, 12th of january, 5 PM, NASIR MAZHAR                                                                                                        
NASIR MAZHAR, London’s ‘KING OF COOLNESS’. The ex-hair-dresser has accomplished what other famous brands are after for decades: to create his own world (music, fashion. lifestyle). He influenced the chavy sportswear-look. Mazhar has been sending out muscular boys and ghetto-chics on the catwalk, while playing consequent hard hip hop tracks, for many seasons. ALL hip kids worship him. We do so too, of-course. 

The (complete) schedule for the London Collections: Men can found here.

Von: Julian

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Lumbersexuality – simply fat, old Hipster!

After metrosexuality and spornosexuality, is it lumbersexuality going to be in?

Media as The GuardianThe Daily Beast and Buzzfeed presented ‘lumbersexual’ as the ‘next big thing’. Men with enormous beards and bellies in lumber-shirts, in work-boots, with wool-beanies on their heads and a freshly tapped beer in their hand.

But is that really the new trend? Men, who combine checked patterns with checked patterns, and who look like they have chucked some trees in the wood. No, not really. The look has been existing in the gay-scene for years (‘bears’ or ‘cubs’).

Plus we already know about the core-elements of the look (beard, lumber-shirt) from the hipster-scene. The picture (view the photo), which was used to express lumber-sexuality in a photo, has also been used to present the usual example of a hipster to their readers.

The hipster already was an anti-movement to the metro. The man became a man again. Sun-studios, picked eye-browes or shaved chests – all in all a no-go for the hipster. ‘Lumbersexuality’ is therefore no new anti-movement to metrosexuality, as it is celebrated in the media, but simply a continuation of the hipster-movement.

Therefore an old, fat hipster, who is drinking beer the whole day and who is just to distinguish by experts of ‘gay bears’. Therefore: no ‘next big thing’!

Von: Julian

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Thanks to @kinderandtank for keeping us warm

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