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Big Disappointment: SAINT LAURENT BY HEDI SLIMANE – Spring/Summer 2013 Collection

 

Want to dress like rich kid wannabe Rockstars in their teenage years in 2005 next spring and summer? Well then you should go buy the entire Menswear collection by SAINT LAURENT. Everyone else, don’t touch it.

 Because you see, in those years the new SAINT LAURENT designer, Hedi Slimane, dedicated his efforts and time to taking pictures of scrawny boys, men’s fashion evolved.

The times when Slimane invented the men’s collections for fashion label DIOR with it’s ultra slim cut trousers that prompted Karl Lagerfeld to go on a strict diet are over.

Now, others set the tone in the industry, including Slimane’s arch rival Raf Simmons. His menswear collection for JIL SANDER even sold better than the women’s fashion and he just took over as Creative Director at DIOR. A job Slimane would have wanted to do as well, insiders say. This, in turn was probably prevented by Karl Lagerfeld. Slimane once said he doesn’t care much for Lagerfed’s opinion. The white-haired godfather wasn’t exactly happy about that and subsequently followed up with Bernard Arnault, LVMH CEO, i.e. ruler of  DIOR and FENDI (head designer: Karl Lagerfeld) to intervene and prevent Slimane from getting appointed. Since then he’s been pointing out relentlessly that it was him who established the skinny look for men, and not Raf Simons, his enemy.

Maybe it’s the obsession with his own legacy that’s making him blind for current trends and change – and for a new image of men.

Today we’re seeing an increase in more defined silhouettes again in men’s fashion. While Slimanes  boys are still wearing narrow-shouldered leather jackets in the SAINT-LAURENT designs for 2013, the shoulders in the other designs in the industry are moving outward and become broader. And while the entire world of fashion world is working with sneakers, Slimane is yet again recommending Chelsea boots for the upcoming year. That leaves a very outdated impression that’s almost anachronistic and somehow disgustingly self-referential.

What can we say? Besides the excellent gossip he’s currently producing Slimane is a huge letdown.

That’s too bad, but perhaps we’re in for something again. At some point.*

 

*After this blog post it’s most likely not going to be an invitation to his next show however. We’re aware of that.

Photos: Hypebeast.com

Von: Jakob

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After Transition to ADIDAS: NIKE is suing three Ex-Employees for 10 Million Dollars

A few weeks ago, it was announced that three of the most important shoe-designers at NIKE are going to transit to ADIDAS. The hard bitch-move, on NIKE’s costs, had an effect:

NIKE is suing the designers Marc Dolce, Mark Miner and Denis Dekovic for, all in all, 10 million US-dollars. The accusation is that they have already been consulting ADIDAS while working at NIKE and stole company kept secrets, like the design for a new shoe-model and gave it to their new employer.

It is also interesting, that the three were accused of stealing documents from NIKEs ‘kitchen’, the strictly kept-secret design-lab that NIKE is running in Beaverton (Oregon, USA). A similar design-house is suppose to be build by Dolce, Miner and Dekovic, beginning in September 2015, for ADIDAS in Brooklyn. Coincidence? Well.

Insiders therefore suppose that ADIDAS is going to carry the costs for the trial, direct or indirect. Because even for a top-designer, 10 million dollars are a lot of cash, it is only a mild fart in the hand of ADIDAS.

The Portland Business Journal has created, based on the plaint by NIKE, a chronology of the incidents, which could also be a great screen-play for a nerve-racking economy-thriller:

October 3, 2005: Nike hires Dolce as senior designer for Active Life. He signs a non-compete and secrecy agreement.

November 2005: Nike hires Dekovic as a senior designer.

2007: Nike promotes Dolce to design director for Nike Sportswear.

March 2008: Nike hires Miner as a footwear designer in Women’s Training. He signs a secrecy agreement.

2011: Nike promotes Miner to senior footwear designer for running. He signs a non-compete agreement.

2012: Nike starts a $1.5 million effort known as “Keep It Tight” to prevent leaks of confidential information.

February 7, 2012: Nike promotes Dekovic to design director for Global Football (soccer). He signs a non-compete agreement. Dekovic also signed a secrecy agreement on April 16, 2007.

2014: Nike promotes Dekovic to senior design director.

March 2014: Brian Foresta, Adidas vice president of design for global basketball, contacts Dolce andDekovic to “discuss professional careers,” according to Nike.

April 2014: Nike claims the designers start a “plot” to leave and take trade secrets. Nike further claimsDekovic, Dolce and Miner bought “thousands of phony social media followers” in order to create “false perception of buzz and popularity” and make themselves more attractive to future employers.

April 29, 2014: Dekovic tells Miner and Dolce to use his personal email address for further communications, according to Nike.

May 18, 2014: Dekovic and Dolce agree on a plan to pay for Instagram and Twitter followers, according to Nike.

May 2014: Nike agrees to pay more than $50,000 in relocation expenses so Dekovic can more his family to Italy. Nike quotes an electronic communication from Dekovic in which he says Italy is one of those “countries where (Nike’s) non compete is difficult to enforce.”

June 2014: Dekovic, Dolce and Miner are “fully engaged” in discussions with officials at Adidas to start a design center modeled after Nike’s innovation lab, which is known as the Kitchen, according to Nike.

June 2014: Dekovic, Dolce and Miner start work for Adidas as consultants while still employed at Nike, according to Nike.

June 29, 2014: Dekovic meets with Adidas Vice President Brian Foresta to talk about the design center.

June 2014: Dekovic, Dolce and Miner raise concerns about legal consequences of consulting for Adidas, according to Nike.

June 21, 2014: Dekovic sends a copy of his Nike non-compete agreement to Adidas.

July 2014: Dekovic and his family move to Italy.

Aug. 22, 2014: Adidas presents Dekovic, Dolce and Miner “lucrative” employment offers, according to Nike.

September 16, 2014: Dekovic copies hard drive of his Nike-issued laptop, according to Nike.

September 19, 2014: Dolce emails confidential Nike design plans to his personal email account, according to Nike.

September 22, 2014: Last day of employment for Dekovic, Dolce and Miner at Nike.

December 8, 2014: Nike files $10 million lawsuit for breach of contract and misappropriation of trade secrets, among other claims.

Von: Julian

SPECIAL

TRENDS

 

No-Go: Coat Slinging!

 

A few years ago, streetstyle-experts started wearing their jackets or coats around their shoulders, instead of putting their arms through their sleeves. The technical term for that is ‘coat slinging’.

Recently, the german newspaper BUNTE (!) reported about the styling-trend. ‘Coat slinging’ therefore officially became a ‘no-go’. So: dear friends with good taste, please stick your arms in your sleeves from now on.

Because a sleeve without an arm, is like Justin O’Shea without Veronika, like Cara Delevigne without eyebrows: somehow not complete.

In 2008, Scott Schuman (aka: The Sartorialist) has revealed the first case of ‘coat slinging’ on his blog, afterwards an epidemic broke out, from which the fashion-world still has not recovered.

It has been enough: put your jackets on properly again! Otherwise you appear like a gay fashion-journalist from 2010 (who would put his arms into sleeves nowadays)

Von: Julian

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Casual Thursday Candy Jakob sporting some posttraditional Austrian gangster wear @adidasy3 pants, @gstarraw_official jacket, @nike sneakers and this White Russian hat from Moscow in between some deers.

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