Want to dress like rich kid wannabe Rockstars in their teenage years in 2005 next spring and summer? Well then you should go buy the entire Menswear collection by SAINT LAURENT. Everyone else, don’t touch it.
Because you see, in those years the new SAINT LAURENT designer, Hedi Slimane, dedicated his efforts and time to taking pictures of scrawny boys, men’s fashion evolved.
The times when Slimane invented the men’s collections for fashion label DIOR with it’s ultra slim cut trousers that prompted Karl Lagerfeld to go on a strict diet are over.
Now, others set the tone in the industry, including Slimane’s arch rival Raf Simmons. His menswear collection for JIL SANDER even sold better than the women’s fashion and he just took over as Creative Director at DIOR. A job Slimane would have wanted to do as well, insiders say. This, in turn was probably prevented by Karl Lagerfeld. Slimane once said he doesn’t care much for Lagerfed’s opinion. The white-haired godfather wasn’t exactly happy about that and subsequently followed up with Bernard Arnault, LVMH CEO, i.e. ruler of DIOR and FENDI (head designer: Karl Lagerfeld) to intervene and prevent Slimane from getting appointed. Since then he’s been pointing out relentlessly that it was him who established the skinny look for men, and not Raf Simons, his enemy.
Maybe it’s the obsession with his own legacy that’s making him blind for current trends and change – and for a new image of men.
Today we’re seeing an increase in more defined silhouettes again in men’s fashion. While Slimanes boys are still wearing narrow-shouldered leather jackets in the SAINT-LAURENT designs for 2013, the shoulders in the other designs in the industry are moving outward and become broader. And while the entire world of fashion world is working with sneakers, Slimane is yet again recommending Chelsea boots for the upcoming year. That leaves a very outdated impression that’s almost anachronistic and somehow disgustingly self-referential.
What can we say? Besides the excellent gossip he’s currently producing Slimane is a huge letdown.
That’s too bad, but perhaps we’re in for something again. At some point.*
*After this blog post it’s most likely not going to be an invitation to his next show however. We’re aware of that.
Leisure Suit Dandies
The Italian power-labels have reached their zenith. Brands with a street-wear background are the spirit of the day. It also does not help, if one decides to print graffities on their designs, to earn some street cedibility, like JUST CAVALLI.
For the spirng/summer collection 2014 by JUST CAVALLI, Cavalli and his team stole graffities by the California-based Mad Society Kings Crew. So obvious, that the copycat-case has been pointed out to the MSK crew. The JUST CAVALLI team even used the acronyms (names) of the artists on their designs.
The MSK crew is sewing them because of violation of copy-right and unfair contest. It does not look bad for the graffiti-gang. At first instance the graffiti-artists Jason “Revok” Williams, Victor “Reyes” Chapa und “Jeffrey “Steel” Rubin, were entitled as rightful.
A mad world, what we are living in, in which used-to-be outlaws of the street are now engaging with the law, to protect their art.
As if we didn’t have had enough to do, our party, fashion week, bell-bottoms and those alpacas, there was also a camera-team following us in the middle of january, from the favourite tv-channel of all smarties: ARTE.
Well, well – therefore there are again nice Dandy-videos (including porno-extracts), unseen pictures of our crazily-wild scandalous party and finally also a close-up of the alpaca ‘Ferdinand’ to watch. Already for the last part, it was already worth it.
And hey, this is ARTE. Not ProSieben. That is gratifying. Even for us extreme haters.
You can watch the whole show here, for the next three months. Do it, homies, otherwise there is punishment!
P.S.: That we are in the very same show as the god of trouble and Liam-bro Noel Gallagher, is of-course nothing but the highlight of our career.
We are urgently asking for jackets, pants or sweaters, which carry an uncountable amount of patches.
Since we do not have time, nor the passion for a fabulous DIY-piece, were hereby want to ask all the PR-agencies on the planet to send us designs by their fashion-designers, which have patches on them (you can find the address in our legal info)
As often, Raf Simons was the pioneer of the trend ‘patches’. Or at least the designer, who’s influence can also be found in the collections by other designers. Simons showed designs in his SS 2015 collection, which showed images of personal memories (friends, family, astronauts, sharks etc.). He used the patches as some sort of mood board.
Kit Neale and Astrid Andersen have refined their pants with patches in their current collections (AW 2015). Sandro PARIS did the same with their already mega-hot leather jackets. And the Danish young designer Martin Mitchell made a jeans-vest.
The rule ‘the more the better’ counts of-course also for the patches trend! Go for it!
As usual terrifc setdesign at Henrik Vibskov!
HOOD BY AIR presented their new collection ‘Daddy’ in a cellar-like setting at the Wall Street, the centrum of finance.
The mastermind behind HBA, Shayne Oliver, showed classics from the world of fashion, like button-down shirts, sweaters and polo t-shirts in the typical unisex Hood by Air Silhouette. Therefore it came to an hybrid between polo shirt and dress. Or camel coat and tank top.
The models wore locks in-front of their mouths and tights over their heads, like burglars. The soundtrack of the show, total freedom, was ended drastically, followed by jazz, underlined with the statement of the Empire:
“I wanna show you a faggot really can run this company”.
It becomes obvious how appreciated HBA is also in the art-world, when looking at the guests who attended the show, for example Klaus Biesenbach and Grace Coddington.
It seems that HBA, even after the diss by their once supporter A$AP ROCKY, is still very hip.