Want to dress like rich kid wannabe Rockstars in their teenage years in 2005 next spring and summer? Well then you should go buy the entire Menswear collection by SAINT LAURENT. Everyone else, don’t touch it.
Because you see, in those years the new SAINT LAURENT designer, Hedi Slimane, dedicated his efforts and time to taking pictures of scrawny boys, men’s fashion evolved.
The times when Slimane invented the men’s collections for fashion label DIOR with it’s ultra slim cut trousers that prompted Karl Lagerfeld to go on a strict diet are over.
Now, others set the tone in the industry, including Slimane’s arch rival Raf Simmons. His menswear collection for JIL SANDER even sold better than the women’s fashion and he just took over as Creative Director at DIOR. A job Slimane would have wanted to do as well, insiders say. This, in turn was probably prevented by Karl Lagerfeld. Slimane once said he doesn’t care much for Lagerfed’s opinion. The white-haired godfather wasn’t exactly happy about that and subsequently followed up with Bernard Arnault, LVMH CEO, i.e. ruler of DIOR and FENDI (head designer: Karl Lagerfeld) to intervene and prevent Slimane from getting appointed. Since then he’s been pointing out relentlessly that it was him who established the skinny look for men, and not Raf Simons, his enemy.
Maybe it’s the obsession with his own legacy that’s making him blind for current trends and change – and for a new image of men.
Today we’re seeing an increase in more defined silhouettes again in men’s fashion. While Slimanes boys are still wearing narrow-shouldered leather jackets in the SAINT-LAURENT designs for 2013, the shoulders in the other designs in the industry are moving outward and become broader. And while the entire world of fashion world is working with sneakers, Slimane is yet again recommending Chelsea boots for the upcoming year. That leaves a very outdated impression that’s almost anachronistic and somehow disgustingly self-referential.
What can we say? Besides the excellent gossip he’s currently producing Slimane is a huge letdown.
That’s too bad, but perhaps we’re in for something again. At some point.*
*After this blog post it’s most likely not going to be an invitation to his next show however. We’re aware of that.
Von: Carl Jakob Haupt