Of course I watched the new JAMES BOND movie the other day. And of course I thought it was really good, even though they obviously forgot to put in an incredibly erotic Bond Girl this time.
And as is the case with an action-loaded movie with a very masculine lead actor: you want to be able to do all that stuff, too.
In order to be able to do all of that at some point, while the tailored suit has to be spot-on in any crazy situation (riding a motorcycle, firing a gun, hit on Asian girls) you’ll have to follow a few rules.
Which ones those are, Brooklyn bespoke tailor Peter Frew told VULTURE in an interview:
Have you ever had a customer who wanted a suit he could ride a motorcycle in?
Yeah. Usually, I recommend a little fuller in the back. Not overly full but just a little more room than normal. Armholes: really high. Buttons: high. And the sleeves are a little bit more full.
Why is that?
It comes with movement — you have to bend over and lean forward, so you have to give as much comfort as possible in the back.
How would you tailor a suit or tuxedo to make it fighting -ready?
Armholes would be high. That’s the key thing — armholes have to be high. The shoulders have to be natural, so as little shoulder pad as possible. Small armhole, but the sleeve has to be a little bit fuller, so you’re able to just raise your arms up. Also, it has to be the correct width for the arm. It shouldn’t be too wide or too close. There’s no general rule on how it should be – it depends on the customer’s arm.
And what about if someone needed to be able to kick. What alterations would need to be made?
Oh, they would definitely have to be comfortable wearing their trousers really high. Because if you’re wearing a low-cut trouser, then you’d have to wear a fuller cut in order to have that comfort. But if you want to wear a nice, skinny trouser, a slim-fitting trouser, then you have to be comfortable wearing your crotch high. Pretty much, the key for that kind of movement is the crotch. Like, the jacket would be the armhole, for the trouser it would be the crotch.
So you’re saying it needs to be higher up?
Yeah, I mean, not giving him a wedgie [laughs] but it should be high enough, you know, just touching your person.
The entire interview can be read here.
Von: Carl Jakob Haupt