We don’t know exactly how Stefano Pilati felt when he was left out in the cold at the big designer-castling in the beginning of the year. We recall: Jil Sander detached Raf Simons at JIL SANDER, Simons went to DIOR following John Galliano who got fired. At YVES SAINT LAURENT (YSL) Pilati was replaced by Hedi Slimane who unceremoniously erazed YVES from the brand name. In the end everyone had a new job except for one. Stefano Pilati.
That must have left highly respected by us Pilati pretty annoyed. And then Yves Saint Laurent’s loverboy Pierre Bergésaid he was happy Pilati wasn’t designing for YSL anymore. Not very nice altogether.
It may be due to all this offence that Pilati confirmed himself as a designer at two labels at once: the Italian living in Paris is gonna move to Milan and start working as head of womenswear department for ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA from 1. January 2013 and as a creative director for womenswear-line of AGNONA. Mhh. Well, yeah.
That doesn’t really affect us. As if a jilted man would stroll down with two women in front of his ex.
Unfortunately both new brides are slightly worn-down and not nearly as attractive as the lady who dumped him. Can also be that we’re mistaken and both ZEGNA and AGNONA are superhot top-brides. We’ll see.
Cathy Horn has been the critical voice of the New York Times for a long time. Her, unusual for the industry, critics have not always brought her friends. With the designer of Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane, she still is in a clinch.
After a critical article by Horyn, Hedi Slima published a tweet, in which he complains, that her critic is unprofessional, that she has always preferred Raf Simons (oh dear, oh dear) and that she is never going to be invited to another Saint Laurent fashion show.
Back then, in her sum-up about the Parisian fashion shows of the season, in which she was not allowed to take a seat for the New York Times at SAINT LAURENT, Horyn wrote the following sentence about Slimane’s work at SL:
‘With the decision, to remove the ‘Yves’ out of ‘Yves Saint Laurent’, Slimane cut the connection to the founder of the brand, and everything he stood for, good taste and female power’
The sharp-tongued Horyn is writing in a current article, that she wrote for the T magazine, in comparison, in a conciliable way about Slimane.
In ‘The Signs of Time’ she is describing the upcoming commercialisation of high-fashion labels. What used to be a ‘No-Go’, is becoming place. Wearable, not necessarily innovative, fashion.
Slimane and his fashion for Saint Laurent, have been named as the example for the changes in the article:
“It’s as though he refuses to strive for the standard goals of a luxury designer — to make modern, conceptual or intellectually resonating clothes. Instead, he makes straightforward commercial fashion that a woman can instantly relate to. I’m no fan of Slimane’s, but he’s clever. In two years as creative chief, he has barely broken a sweat as he fetches another pussy bow from the ’60s time capsule. Last year, Saint Laurent led Kering’s three biggest luxury brands in revenue growth with an 18 percent rise, beating Gucci and Bottega Veneta. He has also defeated his critics, who no doubt sensed the futility of continuing to point out that he doesn’t seem to be trying very hard to be inventive.”
Fashion is an effigy of our times. And, that must be acknowledged by Horyn, Slimane is in tune with the times with his work for Saint Laurent. With his simplification for fashion, his triumphal branding.
Slimane is more of a marketing-genius than a designer. Maybe that is the future. Is the genius designer, who is craving after innovation, always searching after something ‘new’ a discontinued model? Is it going to be the marketing-experts, who are ruling the future of fashion. Currently it seems like it.
You can read the complete article by Horyn here.