We don’t know exactly how Stefano Pilati felt when he was left out in the cold at the big designer-castling in the beginning of the year. We recall: Jil Sander detached Raf Simons at JIL SANDER, Simons went to DIOR following John Galliano who got fired. At YVES SAINT LAURENT (YSL) Pilati was replaced by Hedi Slimane who unceremoniously erazed YVES from the brand name. In the end everyone had a new job except for one. Stefano Pilati.
That must have left highly respected by us Pilati pretty annoyed. And then Yves Saint Laurent’s loverboy Pierre Bergésaid he was happy Pilati wasn’t designing for YSL anymore. Not very nice altogether.
It may be due to all this offence that Pilati confirmed himself as a designer at two labels at once: the Italian living in Paris is gonna move to Milan and start working as head of womenswear department for ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA from 1. January 2013 and as a creative director for womenswear-line of AGNONA. Mhh. Well, yeah.
That doesn’t really affect us. As if a jilted man would stroll down with two women in front of his ex.
Unfortunately both new brides are slightly worn-down and not nearly as attractive as the lady who dumped him. Can also be that we’re mistaken and both ZEGNA and AGNONA are superhot top-brides. We’ll see.
On a daily-bases, press-releases by labels are reaching us, which have specialised in the production of sunglasses out of wood.
They are boasting themselves with sustainability. Are praising their work with totally funny slogans like ‘Woody since 2012′, ‘In Wood We Trust’ or ‘Done by nature, designed for your eyes’.
All die Holzbrillen-Designs von Marken wie Kerbholz, Stadtholz, Wood Fellas, WOODONE, ROLF Spectacles, Eric Lauer, Enzo Forciniti, Scherler oder Zeitgeist Berlin tun das nicht.
The Berlin-based label with the original name ‘Stadtholz’ is assuring that one ‘really has a piece of nature on their nose’, when purchasing their glasses.
But does one want that?! Having a piece of nature on your nose, when it looks bad. Sustainability is great and all. But fashion is mainly about design. And that should look good.
Plus, there is nothing more annoying than labels, who are massively pining ‘sustainability’ on their flag. Most of the times it is exactly those labels, who have as much to do with sustainability as bumm-bumm-Boris with the smart usage of Twitter. Not a lot.
Kris Van Assche will mainly concentrate on his work for DIOR HOMME. The Belgian designer announced the end of his label through a hand-written letter which he gave to his business partners and the press.
‘Times are tough for independent labels.’, Van Assche said to WWD. ‘This wonderful adventure has reached a point where I feel the need to take a break and some distance to better think about how to develop my brand in the future.’
We will miss the sporty-but-buttoned-up aesthetics by KRISVANASSCHE!
Getting Bananas ¿+’!
Next big Thing: Grace Wales Bonner
HOOD BY AIR presented their new collection ‘Daddy’ in a cellar-like setting at the Wall Street, the centrum of finance.
The mastermind behind HBA, Shayne Oliver, showed classics from the world of fashion, like button-down shirts, sweaters and polo t-shirts in the typical unisex Hood by Air Silhouette. Therefore it came to an hybrid between polo shirt and dress. Or camel coat and tank top.
The models wore locks in-front of their mouths and tights over their heads, like burglars. The soundtrack of the show, total freedom, was ended drastically, followed by jazz, underlined with the statement of the Empire:
“I wanna show you a faggot really can run this company”.
It becomes obvious how appreciated HBA is also in the art-world, when looking at the guests who attended the show, for example Klaus Biesenbach and Grace Coddington.
It seems that HBA, even after the diss by their once supporter A$AP ROCKY, is still very hip.