LOOKS

 

Atelier Brume x Dandy Diary

In french ‘Brume’ means something like fog or vapour. So it made sense, that there was a fog-machine in use for the shooting of the current look-book of the label Atelier Brume.

We were there, and could wear the hot pieces by Atelier Brume while walking through the fog. And were posing next to the hot models for the new campaign of the collection Crepuscule. The pictures were taking by the Berlin based photographer Nadine Elfenbein. The styling was done by Paul Schlosser.

Atelier Brume is a designer-duo, that is living and working in Paris. The new collection was presented during Paris men’s fashion week. The process of manufacturing is very important at Atelier Brume. All pieces were produced in France.

The aesthetic of Atelier Brume reminds one of Boris Bidjan Saberi or Julius. A dark, powerful, masculine and mysterious world.

You can see for yourself at the Berlin fashion-convention Premium, where also Atelier Brume can be found, how much handwork is behind every piece of the French label.

NEWS

 

SPIEGEL about Berlin Fashion Week: ‘Stitched-Inn Doubts’

Next to what feels like 100 pages about the soccer WM cup, the current SPIEGEL is writing about Berlin fashion week.

Build on the case of fashion-designer Kostas Murkudis, it is described what is wrong in Berlin. Murkudis is – next to Wolfgang Joop, Jil Sander and Karl Lagerfeld – one of those designers, that is known also outside of Germany. 2011 was the last time that Murkudis presented his designs at Berlin fashion week:

‘Besides the Mercedes-Benz fashion week, he wanted to show, what could be possible, if the fashion-industry was putting an end to celebrating its provinciality’ writes the SPIEGEL, hard, appropriate.

Back then, Murkudis presented an impressing light-fashion-installation in cooperation with the artist Carsten Nicolai. But there was only this single show presented by Murkudis. ‘This way of national self-celebration in once city without any competition’, so Murkudis, ‘I don’t find that very exciting. I prefer to fail internationally.’

There are few cities, which are currently internationally that hip, as Berlin. Doesn’t matter where you are – Tokyo, London or New York – everybody loves Berlin. Berlin sounds promising as a creative, urban, wild city, with never-ending nights, in which everything seems possible.

The organisation-team of the Berlin fashion week has not succeeded within 7 years, to use the unique image of the city, to create something unique as well.

The SPIEGEL wrote about the dilemma the following:

‘With help from the politics and much tam-tam, they tried to impress the world from the city, which is beloved by it’s inhabitants and visitors because things are working without the high-heel-swells with VIP-lists and great as new fashion can be found in back-yard ateliers’

Big fashion-brands have left Berlin: Hugo Boss, JOOP! or Rena Lange. A bulk of the labels, which are still presenting at Berlin fashion week, prefer to show their fashion in an offsite, not in the Erika-Hess-ice-stadium in Wedding, the venue of this years fashion week.

The new venue, the Erika-Hess-ice-stadium promises hope for an unusual location, which has more originality to offer then the faceless tent at Brandenburger Tor. But the SPIEGEL has already been there and reports:

‘Instead of staging a spectacular fashion-place, the hosts are simply putting seats and a runway in the middle’.

More ‘Berlin’ would definitely be good for the Berlin fashion week. The fashion week, that has been tried to be established, could take place in Düsseldorf or Munich and it wouldn’t make a difference. The business-model has failed. It does not fit Berlin.

The massive escape of young talents and established German brands – gone from Berlin – should show the hosts, that a different way of thinking is necessary. Maybe next year. You can read the complete article in the current SPIEGEL.

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