While we announced the design-cooperation with TRACHTEN ANGERMAIER last week, full with pride, excitement and verve and presented our Dandy Diary Trachten leather shorts, we unfortunately have to tell: the trousers have been taken off the market.
TRACHTEN ANGERMAIER decided, to not sell the trousers anymore. Not in their online-shop and neither in the stores of the traditional-fashion-house. We find that: shitty.
We were booked as designers, presented our aesthetic inspiration openly and delivered a design, that had it’s blessing by all sides involved and went into production. We do not have anything to do with the distribution of the product – and we are not involved with the sales. If the product is taken off the market, is the exclusive choice of Angermaier. That that had to happen, is very taken with sorrow by us (keyword: ‘shitty’).
The reason for the extinction of the shorts from their assortment: the gangster-symbolism, that we used, of the drug-gang MARA SALVATRUCHA, which inspired us aesthetically (and which our partners at ANGERMAIER knew about since months – after all they printed those symbols on the trousers).
While we only received a rather harsh e-mail, in which TRACHTEN ANGERMAIER demands, to delete every reference to their house - and therefore the whole cooperation -, spoke the boss of ANGERMAIER, dr.Axel Muntz, more extensively with the FRANKFURTER ALLGEMEINEN ZEITUNG. There he let himself quote: ‘I was shocked. (…) We have taken the trousers out of our assortment, because I do not stand behind it. In comparison, I could also not allow swastikas, stitched on my leather trousers.’
We want to take the time to reject the comparison to swastikas, by far. Not only because the comparison is very limping, but also because we a) think that the crimes of Hitler-Germany, which happened under the swastika-flag, are not comparable to anything else (and every comparison equals a belittlement), and b) the usage of swastika-symbols is illegal. The usage of a cannabis-plant symbol isn’t (and also not of MS 13).
We would like to note again, that we only used the aesthetics of the MS13, the Latin-American drug-gang, not their ideology. The L.A.-rapper-look, used by the Maras, is currently in at many brands: Astrid Andersen, Alex Mattson, etc. The MS13 only has the most radical, the aesthetically most finished, due to authenticity, look, in this area.
Also, we found the communication about strict codes, to be interesting. The MS13 has also strict, unquestionable codes, which they communicate with aesthetically. Same as the bavarians with their traditional wear.
And that exactly those codes are not to be questioned, without a drastic punishment in each cultures, is shown beautifully with the trousers: we have broken the codes, used them ‘wrong’ – and that has been followed by the biggest punishment possible: we have been expulsed by a group, are denied and have been made invisible. Luckily without a machete.
See you at Oktoberfest – wearing: the scandalous trousers.
In front of the ‘muscular design’ of the Adam Rocks, we also played with our muscles and were posing in dangerous poses.
Jakob was wearing an ADIDAS twin-set and a jacket by ELEMENT, combined with sunglasses by KARL LAGERFELD Eyewear and his edgy-fresh-futuristic ADIDAS x RICK OWENS kickers.
Dandy Dave got the inspiration for his look at the CRAIG GREENs SS 2014 Collection. A collection, in which his models are wearing batik-coloured fighting-outfits. David was wearing a batik T-shirt and a sweater, an army-vest, a bucket-hat with a camouflage-pattern and shoes by DOC MARTENs.
Of-course there was enough time to take a stroll through Rigas nightlife. We were singing karaoke with russian oligarchs and were drinking ‘kamikaze’ with Opel-owners – a local schnapps, which – well – kind of strange taste causes uncanny facial expressions after drinking.
In fashion everything is about gothic currently.
First there was #ghettogoth. A trend on which DJane Venus X and HBA founder Shanye Oliver, both hosts of the legendary New York-based GHE20G0TH1K parties, have had a big influence. Thanks to Rihanna, Ghettogoth became famous world-wide.
Sexy RiRi used the hashtag #ghettogoth on Instagram for pictures, on which she posted ghetto-gothic-inspired looks. When fashion-magazines named Rihanna as the inventor of the ghetto-goth-look, drama-queen VENUS X freaked out and published it.
She felt robbed of her fame and wrote on twitter:
I will not be throwing any more #ghettogoth parties or djing. @rihanna thank you for teaching me a lesson. GOODBYE WORLD
I work so hard for some dumb industry sex slave bitch to come collect all the coins and credit for my brand? @rihanna #ghettogoth
Inspite of her threat, VENUS X is still earning her money as a DJane, also the GHE20G0TH1K parties are still on. A second gothic-inspired trend, which came up in the last years, is street goth.
Street goth was created as a backlash to the happy-flashy-colourful street wear-look, which became popular around 2009. Hip boys in Harlem began mixing street-wear with pieces of gothic-inspired high-fashion labels. Rapper and style icon A$AP Rocky ruled the look and made it famous also outside if his hood Harlem. He wore Rick Owens sneakers, Black Scale, Alexander Wang and SSUR hats. Also Kanye West – in black tank tops and leather jogging trousers – influenced the street goth look.
The new shit is called #healthgoth. As it happens very often, the fashionable movement existed before there was a description of it. The same with #healthgoth. The term #healthgoth was created by Mike Grabarek and Jeremy Scott – an R’n'B duo (Magic Fades) from Portland, USA – they created a #healthgoth Facebook Fanpage in april of 2013.
Here, they post everything that belongs to the world of #healthgoth: black and white PORSCHE DESIGN performance-sneakers, a tennis racket with a black NIKE hand-granate instead of a tennis ball, NORTHFACE etip gloves, black ADIDAS training suits, bionic-futuristic body parts and battle-outfits for supermen.
In-spite of the Normcore trend, which we recently addressed in the Berlin-based news-paper the TAGESSPIEGEL, #healthgoth is not about an ironic look with retro-aesthetic, but about a clean, futuristic, anti-nostalgic performance-look for the futuristic human-being.
Next to the performance-pieces of the sportswear giants ADIDAS and NIKE, it is mostly unknown labels, which are designing towards the health goth look. D.T.T.K, for example.
Behind D.T.T.K, stands the Japanese artist Detto K. He designs functional sportswear. D.T.T.K has been chosen by Vfiles, next to two other labels, to present their current collection under the frame of the Vfiles fashion show during New York fashion week.
Another label, which presents the healthgoth-look, is the London-based label COTTWEILER. A luxury-sportswear label, that has specialised in function, cut, material and conscious reduction.
Fashion-journalist and Dandy Diary buddy Tim Neugebauer has interview Grabarek and Scott, the inventors of the term healthgoth, for the COMPLEX UK Magazine. They firstly recognised the stronger presence of black-white-performance-fashion on the internet and then later on in the clubs of their home-town Portland.
Therefore healthgoth is another trend, like Seapunk, that was not created on the street or in the clubs, like earlier movements and subcultures as Punk, Gothic or Nu Rave, but on the internet.
Next to COTTWEILER, the creators of #healthgoth named Whatever 21 and ADYN as design-references. When they go online to search for pictures for their facebook fan-page, they type in catchwords as mesh, BioWare, body enhancement tech, prosthetics and tractical gear.
The question, if there was a soundtrack to the #healthgoth movement, has a surprising answer. They think that music nowadays is not necessary for defining a sub-culture. Over Instagram and Tumblr, a movement can start existing over night and simply over visual aesthetics, Grabarek and Scott are saying in the COMPLEX interview.
As the name already says, #healthgoth is also about health, efficiency and performance of the own body. Wobbly tummies and lazy bodies due to weed-consumation are not welcome.
US electronic-artist Deathface has defined 10 rules for the new trend, you can read them at VICE Magazine. For all soon-to-be healthgoths, the last two, probably most important rules:
Pre-workout is better than cocaine, because instead of talking about bullshit for an hour, you get a sick pump, and everyone loves vascularity.
Healthgoth is a completely made-up subculture, but it means that I don’t have to change out of my gym clothes to go out, so I’m all for it.
Well, now nothing can go wrong! Go for it!