Dandy Diary http://dandydiary.de/en/ Men´s Fashion Blog Wed, 22 Oct 2014 13:11:50 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.8 The End of Health Goth? http://dandydiary.de/en/the-end-of-health-goth/ http://dandydiary.de/en/the-end-of-health-goth/#comments Tue, 21 Oct 2014 12:24:44 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=42316 In august we first reported about the trend Health Goth.

The term for the trend was created by Mike Grabarek and Jeremy Scott – an R’n’B duo (Magic Fades) from Portland, USA – they created a #healthgoth Facebook Fanpage in april 2013.

They are posting everything what they connect with the Health Goth world on their Facebook page: black-and-white PORSCHE DESIGN performance-sneaker, campaign-pictures from the H&M x Alexander Wang cooperation, NORTHFACE etip gloves, bionic-futuristic body parts and fighting-outfits for the super-human of the far-away future.

The Health Goth fan page started growing quickly. The world of the HealthGothers seemed alright. But then the first evil mainstream-media – the French women’s magazine Marie Claire – and reported about the trend five days ago: Health Goth – the Latest Trend You’ve Never Heard of

Marie Claire explained the trend to their readers like that:

…it’s a very modern mix of gothic and punk sensibilities (think dark colours, figure-hugging silhouettes and heavy statement accessories) and futuristic sport-luxe. Weird? Very. Cool? Apparently.

The Health-Goth-scene (therefore: everyone, who is hanging around, underground-style, on the Health Goth Facebook page, was shocked. Their movement has been betrayed. Angry Health Gothers were typing, even angrier, R.I.P. Health Goth lines with the keys of their MACs:

Also the Australian Oyster Magazine, which, different from Marie Claire, belongs to the good ones, to the media, which are entitled to have insider-knowledge, titled: RIP The Trend That Never Was. But did the Marie Claire article really mark the end of Health Goth?

It is the beginning of the end, but not the end. The fashionable awareness (a hand-full of knowers) is going to move on quickly, to the ‘next big thing’, but the wide mass is just becoming alert through a media like Marie Claire. The trend therefore is about to just take off (Merci, Marie!).

Health Goth is a trend, which, like Seapunk, was created on the internet. It is the future-model of the development of trends (and as one can say already the common model of the presence). The internet is a gigantic multiplicator and accelerator. Back in the days it took years for a trend to become mainstream from underground. The entering-barriers to become part of a movement, were much higher:

One rebelled against the parents (Hippies). One would hang around, with black make-up and with creepy people at a cemetery (Gothic). Or would drink all-day, fight, bawl or tear holes in several parts of your body with piercings (Punk).

Today you sit at home, in-front of your laptop, upload pictures, comment, like and share (Health Goth). It never was easier to be part of a movement, therefore it is no surprise, that a movement becomes mainstream faster than a bunny could fuck.

A consequence of our time. Not the over-take of mainstream of the trend is objectionable, but the acted horror by the virtual underground, who feels betrayed.

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Han Kjøbenhavn AW 2014 http://dandydiary.de/en/han-kjobenhavn-aw-2014-2/ http://dandydiary.de/en/han-kjobenhavn-aw-2014-2/#comments Mon, 20 Oct 2014 17:45:42 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=42314 http://dandydiary.de/en/han-kjobenhavn-aw-2014-2/feed/ 0 The already overdue Proof: The ADILETTES-Trend is over http://dandydiary.de/en/the-already-overdue-proof-the-adilettes-trend-is-over/ http://dandydiary.de/en/the-already-overdue-proof-the-adilettes-trend-is-over/#comments Mon, 20 Oct 2014 17:19:15 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=42312 Certified herewith, it finally seems to be over, the very-relaxed-ironic (and of-course also by-us publicised to the limit) adilettes-look, which, if possible, you wear in the most obnoxious ways (with a suit- hihihi, in winter – hihihi, to your sisters wedding – hihihi, to Yom Kippur – hihihi).

 

On this picture, the smoochy singer Sascha ‘Sasha’ Schmitz, who was already out, before we even had pubic hair, is wearing adilettes with a smoking. Therefore it is official and very clear: the adilettes-look has reached the deepest and worst low of mainstream – and is celebrated there with a twinkling smile. There is nothing worse.

Whoever is still serious (hihihi) about wearing ADIDAS-bathing-shoes, has not understood anything and should be punished with having to listen to Sasha’s new album for three days.

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About GQ Style and a hand-tight Fight with a Foot http://dandydiary.de/en/about-gq-style-and-a-hand-tight-fight-with-a-foot/ http://dandydiary.de/en/about-gq-style-and-a-hand-tight-fight-with-a-foot/#comments Sun, 19 Oct 2014 17:25:26 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=42272 On the flight back from Mumbai to Berlin, I finally had time: to read the not-so-new GQ STYLE.

But before I could enjoy this, I had to fight a hand-tight fight with a foot. Shortly after take-off, rising into the night, something scooped in between the right window and my neck-rest, a sweaty-smelling female foot. Never have I experienced something like this. I was shocked.

I was gently pushing the woman’s foot back to it’s holy region with a pillow. But after dinner, when the lights were turned off, this foot tried to find his way again. Again and again I woke up, because this foot tried to get it’s space and kept pushing against my back.

At some point, late at night, the foot had apparently found a solution: it rested on my right shoulder. The foot threw me out of my pleasant dream, in which Henrik Vibskov was jumping across a summer-field holding hands with Stine Goya. That was it. I took the foot with both of my hands and threw it back with all my strength. An act of force as you would have never seen.

After my affect-action: total quietness. It was the last act of ‘David vs. Woman’s Foot’, but I could not fall asleep again, so I turned on my reading lamp and pulled out the GQ Style Fall / Winter 2014-15 of my army backpack.

On the cover: actor Josh Hartnett. Hw presents himself in movie-like poses in a retro-optic photo-series. But the most original series of the magazine was created by the creative director Josh Hight and photographer Julia Noni:

All pictures were taken from above, from the bird’s eye view, the models are sitting on benches, lying on the grass, running, standing, walking – an interesting perspective, which changes the focus.

Star-photographer Wolfgang Tilmanns is telling in an interview, that he is friends with the British Cool Kid Nasir Mazhar and speaks about his exhibition in Zürich ‘Neue Welt’ (‘New World’) and about digital photography.

GOSHA RUBCHINSKY - a Russian allround-artist (fashion-design, photography, film) – is presented in a portrait. The reader discovers, that he grew up in a wild mix of American pop culture and Sowjet culture. And like so often in articles about Rubchinsky, the designer has to explain, that he is not political and therefore is unable to comment on the current situation in Russia.

Rubchinsky who is supported by Rei Kawakubo and who had his first show at the Paris men’s fashion week, has a big future in-front of him, therefore it is more than appropriate to feature his portrait for the wide audience.

The GQ-editor Horacio Silva is writing in ‘BOOM TOWN’ about the rise of the men’s fashion metropole London. There is no city were more exciting men’s wear designers have their home-base: Astrid Andersen, Matthew Miller, Nasir Mazhar, Kit Neale, Bobby Abley, Christopher Shannon, Craig Green, and, and, and.

Shortly before the arrival at home – still deeply into reading an amusing Jeremy Scott interview – I saw her: the woman behind the foot.

An about 60-year old Indian in a dark-green sari was rushing – still barefoot – passed by seat, to be on time for her morning toilette. It never came to clarifying talk about last night.

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Lyrical GRILLZ! http://dandydiary.de/en/lyrical-grillz/ http://dandydiary.de/en/lyrical-grillz/#comments Fri, 17 Oct 2014 13:00:41 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=42266 In the culture of Hip Hop, grillz (teeth-jewellery, which is worn on top of the teeth) have an important role since 1980s. The legend says that it was Eddie Plein, who started the trend with ‘Eddie’S Gold Teeth’.

It was also Plein, who put grillz on Flavor Flav, Big Daddy Kane and Kool G Rap. The artists Roopa Vasudevan goes one step further in her new project, and eternizes lyrics of famous Hip Hop tracks in grillz.

She uses lyrics by Jay Z, Biggie, Rick Roos or Fat Joe, to create 3-D- print-jewellery in form of grillz. ‘I have always been observantly listening to rap-songs and one of the most fascinating aspects of rap is the on-going show-off, that you aren’t ‘real’, if you do not have a believable gangsta-background’, says Vasudevan.

‘Either it is about a huge amount of money or their poor origin, the ghetto, in which they grew up. I find those contrasts very interesting and wanted to illustrate them in a new way’. The New York-based artist has vocally analysed songs like ‘Juicy’ by Biggy, to create – considering the sequel of the words – a topography, which is printed, in the fashion of hip hop, on gold through a 3D-printer.

Until now, only US Hip Hop songs have been used for the lyrical grillz. We would be happy about Hafti’s ‘Saudi Arabi Money Rich’ grills. Let’s see, if the dear artist will make our wish come true in the near future.

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Nicopanda SS 2015 http://dandydiary.de/en/nicopanda-ss-2015-2/ http://dandydiary.de/en/nicopanda-ss-2015-2/#comments Thu, 16 Oct 2014 14:48:27 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=42242 http://dandydiary.de/en/nicopanda-ss-2015-2/feed/ 0 Fucking Ugly: MCM x Stefan Strumbel Backpacks http://dandydiary.de/en/fucking-ugly-mcm-x-stefan-strumbel-backpacks/ http://dandydiary.de/en/fucking-ugly-mcm-x-stefan-strumbel-backpacks/#comments Wed, 15 Oct 2014 12:39:21 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=42207 We would not even wish to see our biggest enemies wearing the MCM x Stefan Strumbel backpacks on their backs.

These pieces are simply fucking ugly. The art by Stefan Strumbel is – well – to say it friendly, ‘very rich’. He creates kitsch-art out of cult-pieces like cuckoo clocks or wooden masks.

But the kitsch-art by Stefan Strumbel has nothing to do with MCM bags. Too much, much too much, too much - if you want to quote Bonaparte. That this is not working, should have appeared to everyone who was part of the design-process.

But it did not come to that insight or to a moment of clarity, sadly. Therefore queeky-colourful, flashy, kitschy motives by Strumbel were thrown on MCM bags.

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WOOD WOOD x Mickey Mouse http://dandydiary.de/en/wood-wood-x-mickey-mouse-3/ http://dandydiary.de/en/wood-wood-x-mickey-mouse-3/#comments Wed, 15 Oct 2014 10:12:17 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=42196 The US-cult-label Joyrich has designed a textile homage to the cartoon-series The Simpsons. Bobby Abley got inspiration for his last collection from ‘Arielle, the little mermaid’. And, yesterday is has been announced, that the Danish power-label WOOD WOOD is releasing a Mickey Mouse capsule collection in cooperation with Disney.

The comic-heros of our childhood are the new muses for fashion designers.

Drafts for the WOOD WOOD collection were the classic cartoons of the 1920s to 1930s, in which Mickey Mouse still was black and white. The DISNEY icon was warped by the WOOD WOOD graphic-department, multiplied and stretched.

The Mickey Mouse motives are going to be printed on the WOOD WOOD signature styles – sweaters, T-shirts and zippers. The collection is going to be released on the 20th of october at Colette in Paris. The global launch is going to take place in the 3rd of november.

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My new golden Wrist-Flatterer TRIWA x STORM ‘Sort of Black Gold’ http://dandydiary.de/en/42150/ http://dandydiary.de/en/42150/#comments Wed, 15 Oct 2014 08:12:49 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=42150 After I have been asked after my new watch about a hundred times already and it nearly has been robbed four times (twice by my friend Philip v. Mollenkott), it is about time, to tell the world – and may that only be the small world of Dandy Diary - how great that super-watch is, that I have been wearing non-stop on my left wrist, right above the tattoo from my early teenage-days.

It is: the STORM COPENHAGEN special edition by TRIWA, a Swedish watch-manufacturer.

The correct name of this golden time-measurement-device is TRIWA ‘Sort of Black Gold’ and was designed by Rasmus Storm, the Danish mastermind behind the brutally hip store ‘Storm’ in Copenhagen. One can hardly do anything wrong with it. The Danes are, that is commonly known, always right, when it comes to style, and the Storm-store without a doubt even more so. And me anyways.

You can buy the wrist-flatterer here. For the price of more than reasonable 260,- Euro. 

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DANDY DIARY-Lederhose wins Prize of Honour at the Oktoberfest in Pune (India) http://dandydiary.de/en/dandy-diary-lederhose-wins-price-of-honour-at-the-oktoberfest-in-pune-india/ http://dandydiary.de/en/dandy-diary-lederhose-wins-price-of-honour-at-the-oktoberfest-in-pune-india/#comments Mon, 13 Oct 2014 15:20:52 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=42112 A few weeks ago, just in time for the Oktoberfest in Munich, we presented, as proud as one could be, our design-cooperation with the biggest German trachten-manufacturer ANGERMAIER: the DANDY DIARY-Lederhose.

Less than 24 hours afterwards, the trousers were withdrawn from the market. The whole media reported about it, our Oktoberfest-visit has been cancelled without giving us reasons and in the end we got banned from the ‘Wiesn’ (according to the German newspaper BILD-Zeitung).

But since it has always been our big dream, to go to the Oktoberfest and we really wanted to fulfil this biggest dream of ours, wearing our leather-shorts, we were brutally sad. But what can you do? We were, thanks to the ‘scandalous pants’, banned from the event. Entering Munich during the Oktoberfest would have been like a war-announcement with ANGERMAIER. We did not want to risk that. We knew, how mad the head of ANGERMAIER, Dr. Axel Munz, was at us, because we printed the gangster-symbols of the Latin-American drug-gang MS 13 on his pants, designed them as baggy-cuts, as we agreed on with him, and hung them in his stores – and than shied away, when alert customers realised the obvious incompatibility of a drug-gang and the Oktoberfest. Within seconds we were the scape-goats, forgetting that the design and the origin have been clear and agreed on by their side, and we even high-fived on ‘more weed-symbols’ on the trousers. May that be as it is. It was clear: There was no way that we could travel safely to Munich. Not during this time. And for sure not at the Wiesn, the area of the Oktoberfest.

Therefore the invitation by the ‘Oktoberfest Pune’, the hottest Oktoberfest in India, was more than welcome. There they heard about our misery, and wondered deeply about the obsolete happenings in this far away and deeply provincial village called Munich – and spontaneously invited us as guests of honour to their event.

Happily we accepted the invitation, that way we could make our big dream of the Oktoberfest come true and could wear our self-designed dandy-pants in the appropriate environment. So we flew – bravely over Munich – to India.

In Pune, the city, that is three hours by car away from the moloch Mumbai, we were received with trumpets and drums. We were martyrs, that sacrificed themselves for the right thing and were pushed away by the establishment for that. But here, in far-away India, they understood us. Finally.

Dignitaries of the event welcomed us, a bit too many coupons for free beer were given to us, our steins were filled properly, we were introduced to the economical elite of the 3-million-habitant city, pictures were taken with us, the heroes from Germany, tons of women were waved our way, whom we thankfully refused, and we celebrated, life, the month of october and of-course mainly: ourselves.

In the early evening, after about the 14h stein of beer, the big surprised arrived: Col R. M. Bedi, an old sikh, with a white twirled beard, who once fought in the war against Pakistan, and is in the ship-business today, who also has trillions on his bank-account and 29 wives, handed us the freedom-prize of the Oktoberfest in Pune.

We were so touched we could not move. We would have not expected something like this, ever. Not here, not in India. The only thing that would have been more absurd, more unlikely, would be receiving the price in Munich. But this was not the moment, the moment of triumph, to think about that. Why should we? We were in Pune, in the middle of India, with 32 degrees celsius, wearing our leather-shorts down to our knees and drinking Bavarian beer. Who would need this Munich? Especially when there was a greenfield present, a green one.

As a present, we received two dissimilar trophy-like silver-steins on the spot, in which the Weißbier (wheat beer) should not run dry. Drunk on wining, touched, excessive and at last mainly happy, we were lying in each others sun-burned arms for days, singing Bavarian folk tunes in an Indian accent, until they asked us to stop and that it has been enough for now. That is what we did and fell asleep in the rickshaw back to Mumbai.

O’zapft wars!

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