Dandy Diary http://dandydiary.de/en/ Men´s Fashion Blog Wed, 20 Aug 2014 16:52:39 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.8 Cathy Horyn >>> Hedi Slimane – a Conciliation? http://dandydiary.de/en/cathy-horyn-hedi-slimane-a-conciliation/ http://dandydiary.de/en/cathy-horyn-hedi-slimane-a-conciliation/#comments Tue, 19 Aug 2014 17:48:31 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=40067 Cathy Horn has been the critical voice of the New York Times for a long time. Her, unusual for the industry, critics have not always brought her friends. With the designer of Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane, she still is in a clinch.

After a critical article by Horyn, Hedi Slima published a tweet, in which he complains, that her critic is unprofessional, that she has always preferred Raf Simons (oh dear, oh dear) and that she is never going to be invited to another Saint Laurent fashion show.

Back then, in her sum-up about the Parisian fashion shows of the season, in which she was not allowed to take a seat for the New York Times at SAINT LAURENT, Horyn wrote the following sentence about Slimane’s work at SL:

‘With the decision, to remove the ‘Yves’ out of ‘Yves Saint Laurent’, Slimane cut the connection to the founder of the brand, and everything he stood for, good taste and female power’

The sharp-tongued Horyn is writing in a current article, that she wrote for the T magazine, in comparison, in a conciliable way about Slimane.

In ‘The Signs of Time’ she is describing the upcoming commercialisation of high-fashion labels. What used to be a ‘No-Go’, is becoming place. Wearable, not necessarily innovative, fashion.

Slimane and his fashion for Saint Laurent, have been named as the example for the changes in the article:

“It’s as though he refuses to strive for the standard goals of a luxury designer — to make modern, conceptual or intellectually resonating clothes. Instead, he makes straightforward commercial fashion that a woman can instantly relate to. I’m no fan of Slimane’s, but he’s clever. In two years as creative chief, he has barely broken a sweat as he fetches another pussy bow from the ’60s time capsule. Last year, Saint Laurent led Kering’s three biggest luxury brands in revenue growth with an 18 percent rise, beating Gucci and Bottega Veneta. He has also defeated his critics, who no doubt sensed the futility of continuing to point out that he doesn’t seem to be trying very hard to be inventive.”

Fashion is an effigy of our times. And, that must be acknowledged by Horyn, Slimane is in tune with the times with his work for Saint Laurent. With his simplification for fashion, his triumphal branding.

Slimane is more of a marketing-genius than a designer. Maybe that is the future. Is the genius designer, who is craving after innovation, always searching after something ‘new’ a discontinued model? Is it going to be the marketing-experts, who are ruling the future of fashion. Currently it seems like it.

You can read the complete article by Horyn here.

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C’est cool: Pinstriped Pants http://dandydiary.de/en/cest-cool-pinstriped-pants/ http://dandydiary.de/en/cest-cool-pinstriped-pants/#comments Tue, 19 Aug 2014 14:56:40 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=40059 Pinstriped pants have caused ugly thoughts in my head for a long time: own confirmation, posh bankers and a friend, who always, when she tried to dress chic, pressed her kebab-spear big legs into pine-striped pants.

But since a few seasons, the image of the classic has changed. Pine-striped pants are shown more and more in a cool context.

Cover-star King Krule is wearing them in a fashion-series for the recent issue of Another Man Magazine. The London-based designer Ed Marler is unwilling to take off his Saint Lauren pinstriped pants. Marler is combining the classic, insolently genius with leopard-patterned underwear (view the picture).

And: Many influential designers are presenting pinstriped pants on the catwalk, for example the hyped JUUN. J and JW Anderson.

Pin-striped pants should be worn as wide leg-pants or, as the already named Marler is showing, untypical combined, so that the ‘chic’ of the pinstriped trousers is broken.

 

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Raf Simons x Fred Perry: Jubilee-Collection http://dandydiary.de/en/raf-simons-x-fred-perry-jubilee-collection/ http://dandydiary.de/en/raf-simons-x-fred-perry-jubilee-collection/#comments Tue, 19 Aug 2014 14:19:50 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=40055 Raf Simons is a very busy man.

He designs Prêt-à-porter and Haute Couture for the women’s line by DIOR, for RAF SIMONS, his own men’s fashion line, for Adidas  futuristic shoes and for FRED PERRY capsule collection for already ten seasons (!).

For his jubilee-collection for Fred Perry, Simons got inspired by the Fac 51 Haçienda (or simply: Hacienda). The Hacienda was a legendary techno-club in Manchester during the 80s and early 90s (Rave).The name ‘Hacienda’ was a reference to a quote by the French activist and poet Ivan Chteglov, the club was financed – besides others – by the band New Order. It is not the first time that Raf Simons has been inspired by the rave-culture. The night-life and it’s protagonists have been a returning source of inspiration since his beginning.

Simons works a lot with horizontal stripes in the jubilee-collection for Fred Perry, which have also been used as a design element in the Hacienda. They appear on sweatshirts, shirts and, of-course, polo-shirts. Our favourite piece is a quilted, dark-green bomber-jacket, in the jacket one would have been a hit in the Hacienda for sure!

SK5266_102-22 copy
SK5270_358-09 copySK5271_102-11 copySM5250_290-17 copySM5256_343-02 copySM5252_102-07 copySM5251_246-07 copySM5257_608-31 copySM5254_143-26 copySM5260_444-06 copySM5259_102-50 copy
SM5263_511-38 copy
SK5265_343-51 copy

 

SM5259_102-64 copySM5259_102-50 copySM5260_444-06 copySM5263_511-38 copySM5264_246-08 copyST5278_491-15 copy

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SANDRO PARIS AW 2014 http://dandydiary.de/en/sandro-paris-aw-2014/ http://dandydiary.de/en/sandro-paris-aw-2014/#comments Tue, 19 Aug 2014 11:54:59 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=40065 http://dandydiary.de/en/sandro-paris-aw-2014/feed/ 0 Launch Event: Alchemy Blues by SCOTCH & SODA (and us as super-hot DJs right in the middle) http://dandydiary.de/en/launch-event-alchemy-blues-by-scotch-soda-and-us-as-super-hot-djs-right-in-the-middle/ http://dandydiary.de/en/launch-event-alchemy-blues-by-scotch-soda-and-us-as-super-hot-djs-right-in-the-middle/#comments Tue, 19 Aug 2014 09:30:23 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=39971 It has been a while since we saw that many beautiful people here in Berlin, we were surprised ourselves. But it must have been because there are so many Dutch people in town, because we celebrated the release of the new jacket by Scotch & Soda and the brand is originated in Amsterdam – just like those many great women.

Like smart foxes, we took the chance and sneaked behind the DJ-desk. Because everybody knows that beautiful women are into DJs somehow. So we played the hardest Hip Hop-tunes from London, New York and Offenback and swept of the feet of the blonde crowd, that has gathered on Torstraße at the off-space ‘Made My Day’, with those tunes.

Besides we took a look at the great jeans-jackets by Scotch & Sodawhich we already reported about, here.

Here are the pictures, of the hot cats (and us, also hot cats), from the 14th of August 2014. Everything was so great (and at the end, in-spite of the forbiddance by the police, we played the tune “Chabos wissen wer der Babo ist” by the so-called ‘Hafti’, super-relaxed and hip-wiggling).

 

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#juergentellerassignment – Instagram Phenomena http://dandydiary.de/en/juergentellerassignment-instagram-phenomena/ http://dandydiary.de/en/juergentellerassignment-instagram-phenomena/#comments Tue, 19 Aug 2014 09:04:52 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=39967 There aren’t many men, who look as fantastic as Jürgen Teller, in-spite of their beer-bellies, gold-chains and sneakers. We admire him for his look. But at this point it shall not concern his looks, but an Instagram phenomena, that Jürgen Teller has caused by giving his students an assignment.

Teller, who from time to time, is lecturing at the Academy of fine Arts in Nürnberg, assigned his students to take a picture of their house, their street, as two pictures of animals and a selfie. An assignment that seems simple. Motives, that remind one of the world of Instagram, in which the users are capturing their daily-life (example: #foodporn) with their I-phones.

Tellers assignment has not only been realised by his students, but also by two Berlin-based photographers, Linda Berg and Anika Meier. On Instagram, the photographers published pictures, in which they devote them to the assignment by Teller, furnished with the hashtag #juergentellerassignment and the demand that other users do so as-well.

Until now (stand of monday afternoon) there are 2752 pictures carrying the hashtag. The two photographers elect each day the ‘picture of the day’. Both of the initiators of the Insta-project were surprised about the massive reaction and the creativity:

‘The participants are trying, not to take trivial pictures like: ‘I picture my feet in the sand – I am on holidays’ but to deliver real art’, told Anika to the Süddeutsche Zeitung.

Now the only thing missing is as real Teller under #juergentellerassignment

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Re-Release: Fashion Porn http://dandydiary.de/en/re-release-fashion-porn/ http://dandydiary.de/en/re-release-fashion-porn/#comments Thu, 14 Aug 2014 14:01:43 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=39736 In the fashion-industry re-releases are brutally en vogue. ADIDAS has recently proofed that with the re-introduction of the Stan Smith sneakers, back from the 70s: the shoe is the hit of the season, simply the shit. Us from DANDY DIARY do not know anyone, who does not own this shoe.

Trend-aware as we are, and because we were in the mood for it, we are also doing a re-release. We have decided on the DANDY DIARY classic ”Será el Comienzo”, the world-wide first fashion porn.

The film was produced in december of 2011 in Berlin and was firstly presented in a january of 2012 during Berlin fashion week, in a sex-cinema in Neukölln (“City Sex Shop”). About one-hundred extremely hip fashion-journalists, designers, stylists and other show-offs were sitting there in the chairs of the small cinema, in which usually older guys take a seat to wank off to a romantic movie. Only seeing this was worth it.

On the day of the premiere we uploaded the porn on www.dandydiary.de, to show our creation, thanks to the great invention of the internet, to the whole humanity. But our try didn’t succeed. Our homepage went offline within two hours. Nobody knew why. Later a call from the federal prosecutors: We have violated the law, with uploading fuck-films and making it access-able to the under-aged. Our young enterprise was sewed, a sum of  500.000,- Euro stood in the room. We were: dead.

Only a sneaky deal with a sewer, the German children’s safety league, was able to rescue us. And therefore we did not have to pay in the end, the lawsuit was dropped and our movie rated as art. There we were. Oh yeah! But we were not allowed to show the movie ever again. ‘Never again’, they said.

Well. Here we are, blue-eyed as were back then, and are doing it again. Let’s see, what happens this time.

The world-wide first fashion-porn, the ultimate fashion-porn, shown today world-exclusively from 4pm until 6pm middle-european time, here on DANDY DIARY.

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The Fucky-Fucky-Gif http://dandydiary.de/en/the-fucky-fucky-gif/ http://dandydiary.de/en/the-fucky-fucky-gif/#comments Thu, 14 Aug 2014 13:30:49 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=39733 For the shooting-day of our fashion porn, we booked a crazy expensive studio back then. The money was lent to us by a patron, who earned his money within the very lucrative Ahle Wurst Business in North Hessen.

In our noble studio, a few minutes before the ‘little death’ of our main-actor, this puberty-like GIF resulted:

The fucky-fucky-gif, as we call it, shot by Marlen Stahlhut.

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Interview: Arturo Martinez – Fashion Porn Cutter http://dandydiary.de/en/interview-arturo-martinez-fashion-porn-cutter/ http://dandydiary.de/en/interview-arturo-martinez-fashion-porn-cutter/#comments Thu, 14 Aug 2014 10:32:31 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=39723 Kids, you can be excited, since today is #barebackthursday!

Today we are going to show for the first time (after the really unfair intervention of the child protection league) our fashion porn - ”Será el Comienzo” – for a few hours, free to watch on Dandy Diary. When exactly is going to be told later (safety first!)

Due to the PORNTAKEOVER we talked to the film-artist Arturo Martinez Steele. The man, who cut the world-wide first fusion of fashion and porn.

In the interview Arturo talks about the effect of seeing a cumming dick 50 times, how his sister reacted to his work and how the happening did not even make him horny:

David: Arturo, you were not there during the porn-production, but you edited the film afterwards. Which experiences did you have with the editing of porn-movies?

Arturo: It was the first porn, that I edited and until now the only one. I imagined a pretty movie, which one would be able to enjoy. But that was not the case in the end. The white, clean studio, in which the movie was produced, the music, the editing, caused a cold, ever-since disturbing aesthetic.

David: Where did you edit the movie?

Arturo: Home, in Spain. The time-pressure was big, Berlin fashion week, and therefore the presentation of the porn came closer, so I took the material with me, to cut it during christmas at the house of my family.

David: Did your parents know on what kind of frivolous project you were working on?

Arturo: No, my parents didn’t, but my little sister came, curious because of the moaning, that came out of my headphones and asked me, what I was doing. I stuttered, wanted to avoid giving her an answer, but at some point I admitted that I was cutting a porn-movie. She laughed and said that she has seen several porn-movies. An information, one does not want to hear from his little sister.

David: Which scene did you begin with when you edited the fashion porn?

Arturo: Very classic: with the first scene. The movie starts with the orgasm of the male performer, runs backwards, until the couple is standing fully dressed next to each other. The first scene was hard for me to cut, because again and again I had to look at a not too-pretty penis and his out-bursting seamen. At least 50 times. While editing I had very high fever. In between I thought about giving up.

David: But in the end you made it. Last indiscreet question: How many times did you jerk off to ”Será el Comienzo”?

Arturo: Not once! Really! I can not imagine that anyone has gone through with that, but today there will be another chance.

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Best Show ever by Henrik Vibskov http://dandydiary.de/en/best-show-ever-by-henrik-vibskov/ http://dandydiary.de/en/best-show-ever-by-henrik-vibskov/#comments Tue, 12 Aug 2014 17:19:58 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=39675 Season after season HENRIK VIBSKOV creates a world with his shows, that impresses, moves and simply witnesses his apparently endless imagination. One wishes that there would be more of them, those VIBSKOVs. Because sadly there are way too many boring shows from trivial fashion designers.

VIBSKOVs show for SS 2015 was the strongest presentation, that I have ever seen from him. The king of Copenhagen invited the audience to a warehouse. In the middle of the location was a 150 square-meters large pool filled with 4000 liters. The pool was so flat, that 10 dancers from the Norwegian national opera and ballet, could dance in it.

Their performance – choreographed by Alexander Ekman – was spectacular. Their movements, that kept increasing in a dramatic way, caused a wondrous atmosphere. They beat into the water, slid on their knees through the pool. It had something disturbingly beautiful.

At some point the models appeared with gigantic headpieces out of hair and water-resistant shoes. They walked besides the pool with the ecstatic dancing dancers.

Fashion-wise, the highlights of VIBSKOVs ‘The Sticky Fingers’ collection, were an XXL-sweater, which formed a face by detaching particular parts. Tops with colour-gradients, which VIBSKOV let print by hand. And short pants, which had rock-aesthetics with it’s over-sizement and clever layering.

The dancers, the scenario, the fashion by VIBSKOV and the moving music by Trentenmøller – a total work of art.

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