Dandy Diary http://dandydiary.de/en/ Men´s Fashion Blog Thu, 20 Nov 2014 16:35:58 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.8 Lumbersexuality – simply fat, old Hipster! http://dandydiary.de/en/lumbersexuality-simply-fat-old-hipster/ http://dandydiary.de/en/lumbersexuality-simply-fat-old-hipster/#comments Thu, 20 Nov 2014 08:59:16 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=43373 After metrosexuality and spornosexuality, is it lumbersexuality going to be in?

Media as The GuardianThe Daily Beast and Buzzfeed presented ‘lumbersexual’ as the ‘next big thing’. Men with enormous beards and bellies in lumber-shirts, in work-boots, with wool-beanies on their heads and a freshly tapped beer in their hand.

But is that really the new trend? Men, who combine checked patterns with checked patterns, and who look like they have chucked some trees in the wood. No, not really. The look has been existing in the gay-scene for years (‘bears’ or ‘cubs’).

Plus we already know about the core-elements of the look (beard, lumber-shirt) from the hipster-scene. The picture (view the photo), which was used to express lumber-sexuality in a photo, has also been used to present the usual example of a hipster to their readers.

The hipster already was an anti-movement to the metro. The man became a man again. Sun-studios, picked eye-browes or shaved chests – all in all a no-go for the hipster. ‘Lumbersexuality’ is therefore no new anti-movement to metrosexuality, as it is celebrated in the media, but simply a continuation of the hipster-movement.

Therefore an old, fat hipster, who is drinking beer the whole day and who is just to distinguish by experts of ‘gay bears’. Therefore: no ‘next big thing’!

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Pictures from the DANDY DIARY x STILNEST – Collection Launch Event at the Volume Art Gallery, Berlin http://dandydiary.de/en/pictures-from-the-dandy-diary-x-stilnest-collection-launch-event-at-the-volume-art-gallery-berlin/ http://dandydiary.de/en/pictures-from-the-dandy-diary-x-stilnest-collection-launch-event-at-the-volume-art-gallery-berlin/#comments Wed, 19 Nov 2014 16:15:18 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=43367 To celebrate our 3-D-print-jewellery-collection, and next to that also the FUTURE, appropriately, we have invited only our prettiest friends to some drinks and exhibited our Bolo-Ties-collection at the Volume gallery. And that is what it looked like. Totally great. Totally future.

Because if that is what it is like, the future, it shall come.

You can find all the information about our collection here. And more pictures from the evening here, on our Facebook-page.


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London Collections: Men – Schedule http://dandydiary.de/en/london-collections-men-schedule-4/ http://dandydiary.de/en/london-collections-men-schedule-4/#comments Wed, 19 Nov 2014 12:44:02 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=43366 On the 9th of january is is finally happening: the fashion show circus. 

As usual it starts with the London Collections: Men (9th – 12th of january). The LC:M has a gigantic potencial. It is growing year by year. For the AW season 2015, the LC:M is expanded by one day. 

All in all, 60 labels are taking part during the men’s fashion week. New in participating: the accessory-label Universal-Works, Nigel Cabourn and the Danish mens-wear label SOULLAND. Already last season, Silas Adler from SOULLAND resigned from hosting a show during the Copenhagen fashion week, now taking part in London. 

Here are the DANDY DIARY highlights during the London Collections: Men:

Friday, 9th of january, 3 PM: MAN Shows:                                                                                                                            The initiative by TOPMAN and Fashion EAST is the very platform for young talents. A complete list of today’s successful fashion-designers, who started with the MAN shows, would burst the blog-spot (among them: Astrid Andersen, JW Andersen, Agi & Sam and, and, and). In january Disney-fan Bobby Abley, Nicomeda Talavera and Liam Hodges, whom we introduced recently, are going to present their fashion during the MAN shows. 

Friday, 9th of january, 3.30 PM: KIT NEALE                                                                                                                                                        KIT NEALE is at the beginning of his career. But his installations and designs are bristling of the amount of ideas and humour, therefore a ‘Must-Go’ during the LC:M. Our favourite piece by KIT NEALE: a sweater, on which he – in the style of street-rug – eternalised his London hood Peckham. Let’s see, what funny things he thought of for his AW 2015 collection.     

Saturday, 10th of january, 12.00 AM, ASTRID ANDERSEN                                                                                                               ASTRID ANDERSEN designs sportluxe-designs. A mix of conventional sportswear-pieces (tank-tops, tracksuits and basketball-shorts) and luxurious materials, as mink. Her tank-tops with laces are legendary. A fusion between compressed man-hood and femininity. Since her design-cooperation with TOPMAN, there was another massive boom for the Danish designer when it comes to popularity. 

Sunday, 11th of january, 2PM, MOSCHINO                                                                                                                    We are not amazed by everything that is done by MOSCHINO‘s designer Jeremy Scott. Either his designs (and: ideas behind it) are extremely genius or crazily off target, but never boring, therefore don’t miss it. 

Monday, 12th of january, 11:00 AM, CRAIG GREEN                                                                                                     
CRAIG GREEN has earned his skills at the famous Central Saint Martins College. He originally studied art at the CSM, but at some point he discovered his – thank god – passion for fashion. His last fashion shows at the LC:M caused big emotions. The front-row was crying, fashion journalist Tim Blanks mentioned a ‘fashion moment’.

Monday, 12th of january, 5 PM, NASIR MAZHAR                                                                                                        
NASIR MAZHAR, London’s ‘KING OF COOLNESS’. The ex-hair-dresser has accomplished what other famous brands are after for decades: to create his own world (music, fashion. lifestyle). He influenced the chavy sportswear-look. Mazhar has been sending out muscular boys and ghetto-chics on the catwalk, while playing consequent hard hip hop tracks, for many seasons. ALL hip kids worship him. We do so too, of-course. 

The (complete) schedule for the London Collections: Men can found here.

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DANDY DIARY x STILNEST 3-D-Printed Jewellery Collection ‘The Big Five’ http://dandydiary.de/en/dandy-diary-x-stilnest-3-d-printed-jewellery-collection-the-big-five/ http://dandydiary.de/en/dandy-diary-x-stilnest-3-d-printed-jewellery-collection-the-big-five/#comments Mon, 17 Nov 2014 13:15:32 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=43313 In collaboration with the 3-D-printer pioneers from STILNEST - a pretty young start-up, that recently just received around a billion Euros from investors as a present - we consulted ourselves about the future of fashion: the 3-D-print.

What is relatively young today and is only used by a few avant-gardists as Iris van Herpen, could soon become the standard in our industry. The 3-D-print could revolutionise the industry and maybe democratise it a bit. Because once we are able to print out a LOUIS VUITTON hand-bag ourselves, there is no need to fly from Chengdu to Paris to queue up for six hours in the line in-front of the store at the Champs-Élysées. What that means for LOUIS VUITTON, the parisian traffic, the french tourist-industry or the thimblerig-players at the Eiffel tower, is uncertain. Crazy! But we are not there yet. We are still at the beginning of this great future.

To try it out ourselves, and to see how this is working, this printing of things, we sat down and thought of a small, exquisite, very selected jewellery-collection and printed it out. And since jewellery easily becomes very girly and we want to exclude any soft-associations from our hard-as-steel dandy image, we have dedicated ourselves to the manliest of all jewellery-pieces: the bolo-tie, also called ‘cowboy-tie’.

On the bases of the ‘Big Five’, the most dangerous wild-life animals in Africa, we have printed out the five most dangerous men of our sector as trophies on those necklaces: Roberto Cavalli, Terry Richardson, James Goldstein, Waris Ahluwalia – as the fifth person a hybrid of David and me.

With these jewellery-collection, produced in the future-printer, we honour those animals of the fashion-industry with the biggest balls. They are our inspiration, our role-models. Each one is for himself a wild beast: Terry, Waris, James, Robert – and we want to be one as-well.

Very modern and globally working-shared we have asked the design-studio SHEINFELD RODRIGUEZ in Hawaii to modelise the faces for the necklaces, here in Berlin at STILNEST those faces were formed to fit bolo-ties and were printed out.

And since we are selfless dandies and are CashMoneyDough uninterested philanthropists, we are giving away our design to everybody who might want it. The designs for the necklaces can be downloaded HERE. If you have a 3-D-printer, you can print out these beautiful, ultra-masculine, modern-cowboy-like, bolo-ties. Doesn’t matter where you are on this planet. That is so crazily future, we can hardly believe it ourselves.

Who is still a bit old-school and does not have a 3-D-printer next to his fax-machine, can buy the necklaces at the online-store of STILNEST just like that, already printed out. That would be only half as future, but still better than not having it ultimate It-piece. 

Welcome to the future, dear fashion-industry! We are already chilling here. It is cool. 

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Next big thing: LIAM HODGES http://dandydiary.de/en/next-big-thing-liam-hodges-3/ http://dandydiary.de/en/next-big-thing-liam-hodges-3/#comments Fri, 14 Nov 2014 14:09:11 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=43142 It is simply impossible to guess his profession by looking at him. LIAM HODGES has the figure of an American football player, is wearing a pedo-mustache, nerdy glasses and has a tooth gap, which is so big, that a clan of pygmies could celebrate a sweaty rave-party in it.

The man, that looks as if he is stays up all night long during LAN-parties with his friends to play World of Warcraft, is one of the most talented men’s fashion designers from the UK. He is forming the spearhead of the generation, which is going to come after NASIR MAZHAR.

Last season, Hodges presented his fashion for the first time during the MAN shows. MAN is an imitative by TOPMAN and Fashion East. Young designers are supported for three seasons. For many successful designers – among Astrid Andersen, JW Andersen, James Long or the genius Craig Green – the MAN shows were the starting point for a successful career and also Dandy Diary fave Liam Hodges seem to be on the right track.

The MAN debutante convinced everyone with his SS 2015 collection, for which he got inspired by the Kibbo Kift movement. The movement was found in 1920 by John Hargrave. A split-of from the scouts. A peculiar source of inspiration with surprising results (view the pictures). His collection was the highlight of the last MAN shows.

Often it comes to a clash between different stream, cultures or times in Hodges collection. He combines Morris Dance, Druiden, Punk, Heavy-Metal and Gurrellia-fighters with his designs. Hodges mantra: ‘What does not fit is made to fit’.

The British aspiring artist, who’s continuos source of inspiration is the world wrestling federation, has studied at the RCA College in London. He worked a lot with heavy denim, industrial manufactures, masculine tailoring, duck-tape as design element and illustrations.

Moments (and phases), which the designer sees as influencing for him as a person and as a designers, were his time at art college, his bar-job, the first time he saw Blues Brothers and the tragic loss of his front-tooth.

Where and how Hodges has lost his tooth, is not sure, but one thing is clear: the man has a big career waiting for him and is going to rock the world with his unconventional fashion.

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Eastpak Artist Studio 2014 http://dandydiary.de/en/eastpak-artist-studio-2014-2/ http://dandydiary.de/en/eastpak-artist-studio-2014-2/#comments Thu, 13 Nov 2014 14:50:47 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=43129 http://dandydiary.de/en/eastpak-artist-studio-2014-2/feed/ 0 A Dandy sees red http://dandydiary.de/en/a-dandy-sees-red/ http://dandydiary.de/en/a-dandy-sees-red/#comments Thu, 13 Nov 2014 14:40:23 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=43127 Because David hasn’t been speaking about anything else than about this old guy at the pool, who he wants to invite to some fries, I was not surprised when he showed up yesterday at 6.30 in the morning at my, completely red kept, bed-room to show me a pair of black shoes – eventually David has seen those shoes in the ZIGN-campaign shot by Jamie Morgan at the Olympiabad in Berlin. Therefore the circle was completed and I instantly realised what would happen next – what must happen next.

David jumped on my bed, I jumped with him. And since the photographer Ole Westermann happened to be in the same room, he pressed the trigger on his camera. That is how the pictures came to light, that and no way else are those pictures: to explain.

While jumping, David was wearing a mongolian bonnet, a football-shirt, leggings from his mother, shorts by ASSK and his favourite new shoes. I was wearing leather-pants by G-Star, a white Tallit-shirt, a leather-blouson by WEEKDAY and the ZIGN-shies, which David gave to me on this beautiful morning.

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Designer-Beef: A.P.C.-Founder is gossiping about Hedi Slimane (SAINT LAURENT) http://dandydiary.de/en/designer-beef-a-p-c-founder-is-gossiping-about-hedi-slimane-saint-laurent/ http://dandydiary.de/en/designer-beef-a-p-c-founder-is-gossiping-about-hedi-slimane-saint-laurent/#comments Thu, 13 Nov 2014 13:39:27 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=43118 Jean Touitou, creative director and founder of the label A.P.C., has gossiped a bit about the designer of SAINT LAURENT Hedi Slimane.

Toitou has told the magazine Vestoj:

“(…) an editor can’t even use his clothes in a photo shoot unless it’s as full total looks. Not even a sock by another designer is allowed. It’s like he thinks he’s the Kaiser or something. But seriously, it’s ridiculous (…)”

It continuos:

“(…) the brand is trying to establish connections between what Slimane is doing and what Yves Saint Laurent himself did by saying that Slimane is working the rock ‘n’ roll vibe in homage to YSL. The official party line is that Yves Saint Laurent hung out with Mick Jagger in the 1970s, and that the relationship between Slimane and his rock star friends is just the same. But YSL was never into rock n’ roll; he was into reading Proust. I mean it’s one thing to hang out with Mick Jagger at Studio 54 because you’re totally coked out and everybody’s partying, but that doesn’t make you a fan of rock n’ roll. That part is an after-construction and the Kering Group is blatantly trying to spin the story to suit their ends.”

And it continuous:

“But the Slimane bashing will stop soon anyway because it’s fashion and people get tired of bullshitting about the same subject. Plus the brand probably sells a lot in China, and as long as you’re financially successful you’re pretty bulletproof.”

We believe every single word said by Touitou and hope that the bitch Slimane answers him quickly. The designer is known for his passion for smaller swordplays. We like that. That is part of the industry. Keep Bitchin’!

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Best Global Brands 2014: This is where the big Fashion-Brands are in the Ranking // HUGO BOSS for the first time in the Top 100 http://dandydiary.de/en/best-global-brands-2014-this-is-where-the-big-fashion-brands-are-in-the-ranking-hugo-boss-for-the-first-time-in-the-top-100/ http://dandydiary.de/en/best-global-brands-2014-this-is-where-the-big-fashion-brands-are-in-the-ranking-hugo-boss-for-the-first-time-in-the-top-100/#comments Thu, 13 Nov 2014 13:17:48 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=43114 The interbrand-ranking is seen as the most important brand-ranking-list on the world. Every year a new list is released, on which the ‘Best Global Brands’ are nominated. And since we are not only always buying the latest Mercedes, the iPhone 6, Cola Zero, a Big Mac or razor blades, but also a new LOUIS VUITTON- handbag, hundreds of H&M underpants and two pairs of NIKE-socks, many fashion-brands have succeeded in appearing on the top 100 of the biggest brands.

LOUIS VUITTON has managed, due to it’s strong outlet in Asia and Russia, to be the top-seeded fashion-brand on the 19th place. Our new best friends from H&M are the second strongest of the industry on the 21st place, followed by NIKE on the 22nd place. Next to the luxury-brands GUCCI (41), HERMÈS (46), CARTIER (58), PRADA (70), BURBERRY (73) and RALPH LAUREN (83) and the sportswear-empire ADIDAS (59), also HUGO BOSS (97) has made it to the top 100 – which probably is because BOSS stopped showing during Berlin fashion week. That is always rewarded. By everone.

The entire interbrand-ranking can be found here.

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GQ-Award 2014: our Looks! http://dandydiary.de/en/gq-award-2014-our-looks/ http://dandydiary.de/en/gq-award-2014-our-looks/#comments Wed, 12 Nov 2014 14:02:24 +0000 http://dandydiary.de/?p=43039 The GQ-award is one of the rare events in Berlin, where men in tails and flies and women in flowing gowns do not seem misplaced. Therefore we did not want to be out of the ordinary and dressed accordingly to the dress-code:

The dandies wore brand-new SCAROSSO chelsea boots, Dandy-Jakob was wearing a tailored suit by PAISLEY with that, Dandy-Dave lurched in a BEN SHERMAN suit across the red-carpet.

For the 16th time already, the men of the year were awarded at the ‘Komische Oper’ in Berlin. The awarded alpha-males were: soccer-champion and salto-specialist Miroslav Klose, Lenny Kravitz, who as usually wore his shirt open to his belly button. Smoochie-singer James Blunt, the knight Paul Smith and the actor Donald Sutherland.

Adrian Brody was awarded as ‘Man of the Year’. Whom we honour since his merciless performance in ‘The Pianist’. Since a party without beautiful women is not that exciting most of the time, there was also an award for the ‘Gentlewoman of the Year’, which was received by the Czech model Karolina Kurkova.

Since we were so happy for all the winners of the evening, Karolina, Adrian and Lenny – and whatever they are all called – we let the champagne run down our throats until the next morning. Next year again with pleasure, then with the ‘Gentlewomen of the Year’ award in our hands and crocodile-tears in our eyes.

Photographer: Ole Westermann

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