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Dandy of the Week: Michael Jeffries (ABERCROMBIE & FITCH)

Mike Jeffries’ life isn’t easy seeing he’s probably the boss of the possibly most unpleasant fashion label in the world: ABERCROMBIE & FITCH (A&F).

His company is being mocked everywhere, be it for dull marketing initiatives (dozens of half-naked adolescents in front of newly opened stores), questionable human resource practices, unpleasant school-sports-locker-room-smells in the stores, or, most frequently for the ‘chavy’ suburb style of the brand.

When you’re constantly exposed to such humiliation you would at least want to lead a somewhat comfortable life outside of the realm of public awareness. For example when you are traveling.

As was revealed recently 68-year-old Jeffries insists on having exclusively freshly groomed, male staff on his private jet, wearing nothing but ABERCROMBIE & FITCH polo shirts, flip flops, boxer briefs, gloves (black ones when silver ware is brought, white ones when the table is being set. This absolutely makes sense!), and a hint of the brand’s cologne. Those of you wondering if something is missing here: Yes, of course there is. It’s the pants. And that is, even if everyone is going to get angry again about A&F, absolutely correct.

We too, would have our staff constantly run around in underwear – if we had a private jet, that is. We can’t see anything indecent about it (we’d merely make massive adjustments to the gender diversity).

Quite the opposite actually: We find such consequent acting out of one’s aesthetics very dandyesque. Therefore we’re awarding Michael S. Jeffries, the ethereally aesthetic Botox-sugar daddy, the highest rank of this blog. He is our DANDY OF THE WEEK.

Von: Jakob




London’s Grime Revival

A few hours before the Brit Awards 2015, according to the legend, SKEPTA received a call by Kanye West.

YEEZUS asked the hottest UK Grime artist to collect his crowd, to be on stage with him during his song ‘All Day’ at the Brits. The underground-movement Grime reached mainstream.

Grime arose in the early years of 2000 in London, from UK garage, dancehall, hip hop and drum and bass. Grime means that MC’s are raggedly rapping, rapid-fire mode to 135 – 140 BPM sounds.

What is happening in London at the moment – music and fashion-wise – is a Grime revival. SKEPTA, who already in the beginning significantly influenced Grime with his ‘Boy Better Know’ crew, went from underground-hero to pop icon. The East London phenomena Grime is becoming a global export-good.

Fashion has always had an important role in Grime. In Garage, which is the origin of Grime, people always wore show-off labels as Moschino, Versace or Iceberg. Expensive brands, which East London kids couldn’t afford. Therefore they weren’t allowed to access clubs.

They wore the uniform of the street: caps, sweat-suits and sneakers and started their own movement – away from the Garage clubs – at Grime raves, which kept being stopped by the police.

‘The man’ of the revival – Skepta – has produced the soundtrack from the SS 2015 collection by NASIR MAZHAR. At the Nasir Mazhar after party, SKEPTA rocked the audience with his ‘Boy Better Know’ crew.

Music and fashion-wise, Skepta is role model for an entire generation. His look is exemplary for the second wave of Grime. He is wearing NIKE hoodies of the combat-line, New Era Lake Elsinore 59FIFTY Fitted cap (“That’s not me”), NIKE dealer-bags, Slazenger sweater, Helly Hansen jacket and NIKE Air Max 95.

One can study the look of Skepta and his gang by watching the video to ‘Shutdown’. SKEPTA himself is wearing COTTWEILER from head to toe in the music video. Besides there are items by Stone Island, Supreme, Adidas and again and again: NIKE, the probably most important brand of the Grime revival.

There are many overlaps with the internet phenomena Health Goth, where it is also mainly about black performance wear, but GRIME is more gangsta, less sporty, plus it is a movement, where the background plays an important role, also fashion-wise.

Von: Julian



Zac Posen is the new Patron for the P&C ‘Designer for Tomorrow’ Awards

After Marc Jacobs, Stella McCartney and Tommy Hilfiger, the US-designer Zac Posen is going to be the new patron for the Peek & Cloppenburg “Designer for Tomorrow” awards.

Posen explained that his goal is to actively support the fashion offspring and to pass on his experience and perspectives.

Together with the jury, the New York based fashion designer will pick the top 5 of all the applicants and will announce the ‘Designer for Tomorrow 2015′ on the 9th of july during the Berlin fashion week.

Maybe Posen will succeed in what his famous predecessors failed: to announce a serious ‘Designer for Tomorrow’. Until now, no DfT-winner was able to establish him or herself as an independent designer in the fashion industry.

At the so-called “Hall of Fame”, on the website of the ‘Designer for Tomorrow’, one can look at the winners of the awards, which are happening since 2009. Sam Frenzel, for example, who won in 2009, is now the creative director at the glove manufacturer Roeckl. He is one of the DfT winners, which have had a career after their glorious victory.

Other ‘Designer for Tomorrow’ are sitting behind the sewing machines at Marc Cain or – similarly tragic – have disappeared into the nowheres-land of the industry. The schedule of the last Berlin fashion week only had the name of the largely unknown Iona Ciolacu on it, who won the DfT award in 2013 (and: the sponsored last years winner).

The comprehensible and legit goal of the award by Peek & Cloppenburg for young designers are the public relations for themselves. It would be good for the DfT award, also Peek & Cloppenburg, if one of the DfT-winners would actually ‘make it’.

Why is that?! Because of the selection of designers? The time period and the amount of the funding? Peek & Cloppenburg is supporting the DfT-winner for a year. Too short?

Maybe the P&C team should get consulting by the British colleagues at TOPMAN. TOPMANs young talent-support program MAN is succeeding and beards one hyped designer after the other: J.W. Anderson, Craig Green, Bobby Abley etc.

TOPMAN supports their designers for three seasons. Success on the long run – for the young designers, but also for the supporters themselves – is approached, whereas the shortly lasting PR-coup through a well-known patron is in the foreground at P&C.

But when the patron is becoming less and less spectacular and the success of the supported designers stays inexistent, the concept is doomed to fail. It is time, to rethink.

Photo: Michael Beauplet

Von: Julian






New York Fashion Week: Hood by Air AW 2015

HOOD BY AIR presented their new collection ‘Daddy’ in a cellar-like setting at the Wall Street, the centrum of finance.

The mastermind behind HBA, Shayne Oliver, showed classics from the world of fashion, like button-down shirts, sweaters and polo t-shirts in the typical unisex Hood by Air Silhouette. Therefore it came to an hybrid between polo shirt and dress. Or camel coat and tank top.

The models wore locks in-front of their mouths and tights over their heads, like burglars. The soundtrack of the show, total freedom, was ended drastically, followed by jazz, underlined with the statement of the Empire:

“I wanna show you a faggot really can run this company”.

It becomes obvious how appreciated HBA is also in the art-world, when looking at the guests who attended the show, for example Klaus Biesenbach and Grace Coddington.

It seems that HBA, even after the diss by their once supporter A$AP ROCKY, is still very hip.




Sick @boychild performance in A Day in the Life of Bliss! Watched at ICA London!

#034 #034 #wutsang