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Dandy of the Week: Michael Jeffries (ABERCROMBIE & FITCH)

Mike Jeffries’ life isn’t easy seeing he’s probably the boss of the possibly most unpleasant fashion label in the world: ABERCROMBIE & FITCH (A&F).

His company is being mocked everywhere, be it for dull marketing initiatives (dozens of half-naked adolescents in front of newly opened stores), questionable human resource practices, unpleasant school-sports-locker-room-smells in the stores, or, most frequently for the ‘chavy’ suburb style of the brand.

When you’re constantly exposed to such humiliation you would at least want to lead a somewhat comfortable life outside of the realm of public awareness. For example when you are traveling.

As was revealed recently 68-year-old Jeffries insists on having exclusively freshly groomed, male staff on his private jet, wearing nothing but ABERCROMBIE & FITCH polo shirts, flip flops, boxer briefs, gloves (black ones when silver ware is brought, white ones when the table is being set. This absolutely makes sense!), and a hint of the brand’s cologne. Those of you wondering if something is missing here: Yes, of course there is. It’s the pants. And that is, even if everyone is going to get angry again about A&F, absolutely correct.

We too, would have our staff constantly run around in underwear – if we had a private jet, that is. We can’t see anything indecent about it (we’d merely make massive adjustments to the gender diversity).

Quite the opposite actually: We find such consequent acting out of one’s aesthetics very dandyesque. Therefore we’re awarding Michael S. Jeffries, the ethereally aesthetic Botox-sugar daddy, the highest rank of this blog. He is our DANDY OF THE WEEK.

Von: Jakob

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London Collections: Men – Schedule

On the 9th of january is is finally happening: the fashion show circus. 

As usual it starts with the London Collections: Men (9th – 12th of january). The LC:M has a gigantic potencial. It is growing year by year. For the AW season 2015, the LC:M is expanded by one day. 

All in all, 60 labels are taking part during the men’s fashion week. New in participating: the accessory-label Universal-Works, Nigel Cabourn and the Danish mens-wear label SOULLAND. Already last season, Silas Adler from SOULLAND resigned from hosting a show during the Copenhagen fashion week, now taking part in London. 

Here are the DANDY DIARY highlights during the London Collections: Men:

Friday, 9th of january, 3 PM: MAN Shows:                                                                                                                            The initiative by TOPMAN and Fashion EAST is the very platform for young talents. A complete list of today’s successful fashion-designers, who started with the MAN shows, would burst the blog-spot (among them: Astrid Andersen, JW Andersen, Agi & Sam and, and, and). In january Disney-fan Bobby Abley, Nicomeda Talavera and Liam Hodges, whom we introduced recently, are going to present their fashion during the MAN shows. 

Friday, 9th of january, 3.30 PM: KIT NEALE                                                                                                                                                        KIT NEALE is at the beginning of his career. But his installations and designs are bristling of the amount of ideas and humour, therefore a ‘Must-Go’ during the LC:M. Our favourite piece by KIT NEALE: a sweater, on which he – in the style of street-rug – eternalised his London hood Peckham. Let’s see, what funny things he thought of for his AW 2015 collection.     

Saturday, 10th of january, 12.00 AM, ASTRID ANDERSEN                                                                                                               ASTRID ANDERSEN designs sportluxe-designs. A mix of conventional sportswear-pieces (tank-tops, tracksuits and basketball-shorts) and luxurious materials, as mink. Her tank-tops with laces are legendary. A fusion between compressed man-hood and femininity. Since her design-cooperation with TOPMAN, there was another massive boom for the Danish designer when it comes to popularity. 

Sunday, 11th of january, 2PM, MOSCHINO                                                                                                                    We are not amazed by everything that is done by MOSCHINO‘s designer Jeremy Scott. Either his designs (and: ideas behind it) are extremely genius or crazily off target, but never boring, therefore don’t miss it. 

Monday, 12th of january, 11:00 AM, CRAIG GREEN                                                                                                     
CRAIG GREEN has earned his skills at the famous Central Saint Martins College. He originally studied art at the CSM, but at some point he discovered his – thank god – passion for fashion. His last fashion shows at the LC:M caused big emotions. The front-row was crying, fashion journalist Tim Blanks mentioned a ‘fashion moment’.

Monday, 12th of january, 5 PM, NASIR MAZHAR                                                                                                        
NASIR MAZHAR, London’s ‘KING OF COOLNESS’. The ex-hair-dresser has accomplished what other famous brands are after for decades: to create his own world (music, fashion. lifestyle). He influenced the chavy sportswear-look. Mazhar has been sending out muscular boys and ghetto-chics on the catwalk, while playing consequent hard hip hop tracks, for many seasons. ALL hip kids worship him. We do so too, of-course. 

The (complete) schedule for the London Collections: Men can found here.

Von: Julian

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Lumbersexuality – simply fat, old Hipster!

After metrosexuality and spornosexuality, is it lumbersexuality going to be in?

Media as The GuardianThe Daily Beast and Buzzfeed presented ‘lumbersexual’ as the ‘next big thing’. Men with enormous beards and bellies in lumber-shirts, in work-boots, with wool-beanies on their heads and a freshly tapped beer in their hand.

But is that really the new trend? Men, who combine checked patterns with checked patterns, and who look like they have chucked some trees in the wood. No, not really. The look has been existing in the gay-scene for years (‘bears’ or ‘cubs’).

Plus we already know about the core-elements of the look (beard, lumber-shirt) from the hipster-scene. The picture (view the photo), which was used to express lumber-sexuality in a photo, has also been used to present the usual example of a hipster to their readers.

The hipster already was an anti-movement to the metro. The man became a man again. Sun-studios, picked eye-browes or shaved chests – all in all a no-go for the hipster. ‘Lumbersexuality’ is therefore no new anti-movement to metrosexuality, as it is celebrated in the media, but simply a continuation of the hipster-movement.

Therefore an old, fat hipster, who is drinking beer the whole day and who is just to distinguish by experts of ‘gay bears’. Therefore: no ‘next big thing’!

Von: Julian

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Thanks to @kinderandtank for keeping us warm

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