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Copenhagen Fashion Week: Asger Juel Larsen – Spring/Summer 2013

One of the highlights of the Copenhagen Fashion Week surely was Asger Juel Larsen. The Dane, who studied at the London College of Fashion and cleared away the first prize, had a show there, on a way too early Friday afternoon at one o’clock.

The complexity of his Spring/Summer collection for the coming year can really amaze: from monochrome shirt-pants-jacket combinations, over shimmering bomber jackets with hoods, allover skull prints, midriff sweaters, yard-long raincoats and three-quarter-long pants (absolutely super-trendy!), to gothic dresses and gowns, as well as a complete look of the gothic, abstract  tribals  (!) and neon colors combined.

While the gothic stuff makes us shudder shudder a little due to the Nu-Grave reference times, we find the three-quarter pants, bomber jackets and the all-over prints awesome. This collection is simply too much of a whole shebang.

The variety of trends that Asger Juel Larsen picks up and continues, makes many of his fellow designers look quite pale. Not only in Copenhagen – but also worldwide.

PS: If we may trust our rumor-trained ears, it looks like Asger Juel Larsen is soon moving to Berlin. That would be of crazy profit for the local fashion business.

Von: Jakob

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Cathy Horyn >>> Hedi Slimane – a Conciliation?

Cathy Horn has been the critical voice of the New York Times for a long time. Her, unusual for the industry, critics have not always brought her friends. With the designer of Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane, she still is in a clinch.

After a critical article by Horyn, Hedi Slima published a tweet, in which he complains, that her critic is unprofessional, that she has always preferred Raf Simons (oh dear, oh dear) and that she is never going to be invited to another Saint Laurent fashion show.

Back then, in her sum-up about the Parisian fashion shows of the season, in which she was not allowed to take a seat for the New York Times at SAINT LAURENT, Horyn wrote the following sentence about Slimane’s work at SL:

‘With the decision, to remove the ‘Yves’ out of ‘Yves Saint Laurent’, Slimane cut the connection to the founder of the brand, and everything he stood for, good taste and female power’

The sharp-tongued Horyn is writing in a current article, that she wrote for the T magazine, in comparison, in a conciliable way about Slimane.

In ‘The Signs of Time’ she is describing the upcoming commercialisation of high-fashion labels. What used to be a ‘No-Go’, is becoming place. Wearable, not necessarily innovative, fashion.

Slimane and his fashion for Saint Laurent, have been named as the example for the changes in the article:

“It’s as though he refuses to strive for the standard goals of a luxury designer — to make modern, conceptual or intellectually resonating clothes. Instead, he makes straightforward commercial fashion that a woman can instantly relate to. I’m no fan of Slimane’s, but he’s clever. In two years as creative chief, he has barely broken a sweat as he fetches another pussy bow from the ’60s time capsule. Last year, Saint Laurent led Kering’s three biggest luxury brands in revenue growth with an 18 percent rise, beating Gucci and Bottega Veneta. He has also defeated his critics, who no doubt sensed the futility of continuing to point out that he doesn’t seem to be trying very hard to be inventive.”

Fashion is an effigy of our times. And, that must be acknowledged by Horyn, Slimane is in tune with the times with his work for Saint Laurent. With his simplification for fashion, his triumphal branding.

Slimane is more of a marketing-genius than a designer. Maybe that is the future. Is the genius designer, who is craving after innovation, always searching after something ‘new’ a discontinued model? Is it going to be the marketing-experts, who are ruling the future of fashion. Currently it seems like it.

You can read the complete article by Horyn here.

Von: Julian

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C://LANA/DESKTOP/Collection

Lana Dumitru, the designer of this hot collection, earned worldwide fame through her Facebook dress. Who does not know the Facebook dress, please follow here.

For her current collection  C://LANA/DESKTOP, the native Romanian used symbolics of the virtual world again. She printed the trash-symbol, which you should also have on your desktop somewhere, as symbols for the loud-speakers and loupe on neoprene-sweaters with USB-cables.

Above the trash-print a daily question appears: Are you sure you want to permanently erase the Items in the Trash? (You can’t undo this action)?  In this context, printed on a sweater, worn by a human, this question nearly becomes philosophical.

You can view all collections by our favourite CYBERGIRL from Transylvania, here.

 

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