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Berlin Fashion Week: Patrick Mohr Spring/Summer 2013

Patrick Mohr has surprised everyone at berlin Fashion Week with with the presentation of his fashion yet again on Friday.

Instead of imitating all the other designers and set a runway show in a white Mercedes Benz tent at the Victory Column, he invited a few journalists, dozens of bloggers and even more young homosexuals who seemed to appear to all mourn the  Nu Grave-Time and were one and all dressed in black leather to Bayblon cinema in Mitte.

Ten models stood on small white columns in front of the screen, but soon had to go in order to clear the view for what Patrick really wanted to show us: his fashion film “Metamohrphose”.

The lavishly produced film lasts for good 10 minutes. Besides the actor Wilson Gonzalez Ochsenknecht and Bonnie Strange, the owner of a thrift store, all models are primarily from the Hamburg agency PMA. The film “Metamohrphose” was shot in Berlin by Hakan Can.

While the film deserved a decent ovation from the audience at the premiere, it remains pretty unclear, at least for me, what exactly the Spring/Summer 2013 collection by Patrick Mohr looks like.

What you could see were well-known trademarks such as triangles, triangular-cut jeans and casual tank tops. New additions are faded color gradients, large prints and especially bags made ​​of leather with graphic cut outs, and pale-printed scarves.

Bags and scarves are known in the fashion world as an absolute money-maker. Because nothing can generate high revenues, as accessories. Those who don’t believe it, might make a quick call to Marc Jacobs or Louis Vuitton.

Patrick Mohr, meanwhile, can be complimented for a zeitgeisty collection presentation. Let him enjoy fame, glory and money.

Von: Jakob

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Cathy Horyn >>> Hedi Slimane – a Conciliation?

Cathy Horn has been the critical voice of the New York Times for a long time. Her, unusual for the industry, critics have not always brought her friends. With the designer of Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane, she still is in a clinch.

After a critical article by Horyn, Hedi Slima published a tweet, in which he complains, that her critic is unprofessional, that she has always preferred Raf Simons (oh dear, oh dear) and that she is never going to be invited to another Saint Laurent fashion show.

Back then, in her sum-up about the Parisian fashion shows of the season, in which she was not allowed to take a seat for the New York Times at SAINT LAURENT, Horyn wrote the following sentence about Slimane’s work at SL:

‘With the decision, to remove the ‘Yves’ out of ‘Yves Saint Laurent’, Slimane cut the connection to the founder of the brand, and everything he stood for, good taste and female power’

The sharp-tongued Horyn is writing in a current article, that she wrote for the T magazine, in comparison, in a conciliable way about Slimane.

In ‘The Signs of Time’ she is describing the upcoming commercialisation of high-fashion labels. What used to be a ‘No-Go’, is becoming place. Wearable, not necessarily innovative, fashion.

Slimane and his fashion for Saint Laurent, have been named as the example for the changes in the article:

“It’s as though he refuses to strive for the standard goals of a luxury designer — to make modern, conceptual or intellectually resonating clothes. Instead, he makes straightforward commercial fashion that a woman can instantly relate to. I’m no fan of Slimane’s, but he’s clever. In two years as creative chief, he has barely broken a sweat as he fetches another pussy bow from the ’60s time capsule. Last year, Saint Laurent led Kering’s three biggest luxury brands in revenue growth with an 18 percent rise, beating Gucci and Bottega Veneta. He has also defeated his critics, who no doubt sensed the futility of continuing to point out that he doesn’t seem to be trying very hard to be inventive.”

Fashion is an effigy of our times. And, that must be acknowledged by Horyn, Slimane is in tune with the times with his work for Saint Laurent. With his simplification for fashion, his triumphal branding.

Slimane is more of a marketing-genius than a designer. Maybe that is the future. Is the genius designer, who is craving after innovation, always searching after something ‘new’ a discontinued model? Is it going to be the marketing-experts, who are ruling the future of fashion. Currently it seems like it.

You can read the complete article by Horyn here.

Von: Julian

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