A fashion world without Cavalli. That wouldn’t be nice at all. The italian fashion prince with his unbuttoned shirts reliably creates headlines. He is a great entertainer. A few days ago, Cavalli started a fight with muscle man Armani:
“As usual, the Camera Nazionale della Moda is washing its hands of the situation and it will not go against the wishes of ‘Little King’ Armani, and therefore the problems are mine alone. What can I do? Do I stay the final day, running the risk that some foreign journalists will forgo my show, or should I overlap with smaller fry, smaller brands, acting as some of my colleagues do?”
“Cavalli should be quiet because the ‘Little King’ could start to get angry.”
A brawl between those two old men seems inevitable. The Dandy Diary-Team starts now to take bets for money. But we won’t be impartial in case of a fight. We just like him too much for that, our Macho Cavalli.
Dandy of the Week: Mike the Ruler
Cathy Horn has been the critical voice of the New York Times for a long time. Her, unusual for the industry, critics have not always brought her friends. With the designer of Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane, she still is in a clinch.
After a critical article by Horyn, Hedi Slima published a tweet, in which he complains, that her critic is unprofessional, that she has always preferred Raf Simons (oh dear, oh dear) and that she is never going to be invited to another Saint Laurent fashion show.
Back then, in her sum-up about the Parisian fashion shows of the season, in which she was not allowed to take a seat for the New York Times at SAINT LAURENT, Horyn wrote the following sentence about Slimane’s work at SL:
‘With the decision, to remove the ‘Yves’ out of ‘Yves Saint Laurent’, Slimane cut the connection to the founder of the brand, and everything he stood for, good taste and female power’
The sharp-tongued Horyn is writing in a current article, that she wrote for the T magazine, in comparison, in a conciliable way about Slimane.
In ‘The Signs of Time’ she is describing the upcoming commercialisation of high-fashion labels. What used to be a ‘No-Go’, is becoming place. Wearable, not necessarily innovative, fashion.
Slimane and his fashion for Saint Laurent, have been named as the example for the changes in the article:
“It’s as though he refuses to strive for the standard goals of a luxury designer — to make modern, conceptual or intellectually resonating clothes. Instead, he makes straightforward commercial fashion that a woman can instantly relate to. I’m no fan of Slimane’s, but he’s clever. In two years as creative chief, he has barely broken a sweat as he fetches another pussy bow from the ’60s time capsule. Last year, Saint Laurent led Kering’s three biggest luxury brands in revenue growth with an 18 percent rise, beating Gucci and Bottega Veneta. He has also defeated his critics, who no doubt sensed the futility of continuing to point out that he doesn’t seem to be trying very hard to be inventive.”
Fashion is an effigy of our times. And, that must be acknowledged by Horyn, Slimane is in tune with the times with his work for Saint Laurent. With his simplification for fashion, his triumphal branding.
Slimane is more of a marketing-genius than a designer. Maybe that is the future. Is the genius designer, who is craving after innovation, always searching after something ‘new’ a discontinued model? Is it going to be the marketing-experts, who are ruling the future of fashion. Currently it seems like it.
You can read the complete article by Horyn here.
For her current collection C://LANA/DESKTOP, the native Romanian used symbolics of the virtual world again. She printed the trash-symbol, which you should also have on your desktop somewhere, as symbols for the loud-speakers and loupe on neoprene-sweaters with USB-cables.
Above the trash-print a daily question appears: Are you sure you want to permanently erase the Items in the Trash? (You can’t undo this action)? In this context, printed on a sweater, worn by a human, this question nearly becomes philosophical.
You can view all collections by our favourite CYBERGIRL from Transylvania, here.