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By Jakob

BBC BLACK: New Line by Pharrell Williams and Mark McNairy

The name says it all: BBC BLACK, the new line of men’s fashion merger BILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB is being kept in black entirely.

References from the military affinity of designer Mark McNairy are still recognizable of course. It’s easy to imagine face of the brand Pharrell Williams running around in a complete look by BBC BLACK. It’s all very strict and coherent, even if very unsurprising at the same time. Black streetwear with a military touch, it’s as simple as that.

Anyway: We do think the stuff is very decent and are already looking forward to the upcoming 1st of May riots next year.

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By David

Look du Jour – 85

Last weekend I made an attempt at trend sport “Planespotting”.

Planespotters spend their days sitting on high risers in close proximity to airports to watch the planes flying over their heads. Sometimes they also take a photo.

Since I wanted to impress the other planespotters on the roof of a parking garage I put on my highly professional MA-1 flight jacket by ALPHA INDUSTRIES, paired with a LEVI’S 501, DOCS, and a white polo shirt by FRED PERRY.

Images: Nives Meloni

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By Jakob

Good Read: Male models – The bumpy road across the catwalk

FAZ editor Kerstin Susanne König was facing the tough challenge of finding out what it’s like to be a male model, attempting to catch sentiments among the young- and not so young models – and according to her report, it’s not all that much sunshine and happiness.

The majority of the interviewed guys work for little money or none, sometimes paying their own travel expenses – and on top of that the much higher paid, female counterparts call them either boring or too much.

Poor, beautiful, boring male models.

You can read the entire piece over at the colleagues’ website of the FAZ.

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By Jakob

Quote of the Day: Mike Jeffries (Abercrombie & Fitch)

ABERCROMBIE & FITCH CEO Mike Jeffries just recently explained to a journalist why he doesn’t offer XL and XXL sizes for women: He simply doesn’t want fat chicks to wear his brand.

Jeffries, winner of the honorable “Dandy of the Week” award really said this:

“In every school there are the cool and popular kids, and then there are the not-so-cool kids. Candidly, we go after the cool kids. We go after the attractive all-American kid with a great attitude and a lot of friends. A lot of people don’t belong [in our clothes], and they can’t belong. Are we exclusionary? Absolutely. Those companies that are in trouble are trying to target everybody: young, old, fat, skinny. But then you become totally vanilla. You don’t alienate anybody, but you don’t excite anybody, either.”

We think that whole ”cool and popular kids” thing totally makes sense – would like to recommend dear Mike a so-called reality check at this point though, because our studies show:

Girls and boys wearing ABERCROMBIE & FITCH might not be among the fattest among their peers but that really doesn’t make them cool either. Quite the opposite. They are: “totally vanilla”, as we’d just put it. They just don’t excite anyone.

Sorry, we hate breaking it to you Mike.

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By Jakob

LOVEGANG Perfume: A declaration to the monopoly of designer scents

Summer is almost here which makes me want to attract a few girls so I spent months contemplating what my new signature scent should be.

Art collective LOVEGANG fortunately took that crucial decision out of my hands. Because those guys put a scent out there that you can do no wrong with. I now take a daily bath in it.

Why the hell those five lovers decided to declare war to all DOUGLAS outlets in this world they explain as follows:

“The LOVEGANG perfume is an Independent Art of Perfume Project. A declaration to the monopolization of designer scents and a love declaration to each individual sharing our values and LOVEGAND spirit!”

We think that’s fantastic, the scent is an aphrodisiac, and the bottle design with the silver lid is ridiculous as well – and now we’re screaming at the top of our lungs: Buy now, you smelly bastards!

P.S.: You can purchase the Lovegang perfume in Hamburg, for example at Stoffsüchtig and of course everywhere on the web

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By David

Co-lab: Trine Lindegaard X Cons

There are designers that put out one, or two strong collections. Then the commercial pressure suffocates them or they are out of smart ideas. That’s not the case with TRINE LINDEGAARD.

The Dane with an affinity for African patterns is convincing over and over again, with every new collection. For the A/W 2013 season Lindegaard collaborated with the inmates of a British prison.

The program Fine Cell Work teaches prisoners to work with needle and thread. The designer visited bad guys with a knack for stitching to work with them on her new collection under the working title “Happiness”.

The mix of sweatshirts giving off a refreshingly naïve impression (peace dove, hearts and flowers), that emerged in prison, and the African patterns that LINDEGAARD also incorporated in her previous collections go together very well.

Check out an interview on the current work of LINDEGAARD over at Stylesalvage.

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By David

Moving Patchwork

I am wearing my favorite piece of the RAF SIMONSFRED PERRY spring/summer 2013 collection.

A shirt that was put together from four different fabrics, a prime example for the current patchwork trend that we wrote about previously.

Whoever manages to watch this admittedly slightly disturbing animation for longer than 15 minutes without ending up with a massive headache will have our eternal respect:

Images: Marlen Stahlhuth

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By Jakob

Good Read: “Chaos to Couture” – The Grave of Punk

Art magazine “Art” visited the new “Punk: Chaos to Couture” exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum in New York that had quite the sub-par opening. They weren’t happy at all.

The author wonders, and rightfully so, that with all the Punk aesthetics the music was totally forgotten – no banging, loud, and annoying Punk came blasting out of the speakers. Instead one listened to Rossini’s overture “La Gazza Ladra”. Oh well.

Claudia Bodin writes the following about the exhibition:

“The show ‘Punk: Chaos to Couture” depicts how a youth movement is being transformed into consumer goods. Right upon entering the exhibition it becomes obvious that the fashion world embodies everything that Punk never wanted to be. Punk was anarchy: uncontrolled, improvised, wild, cheap, and ugly.”

And further, disappointed:

“(…) This show does not celebrate Punk, the pink and black-colored rooms are killing punk, rather than acknowledging it and honoring it. And fading star Madonna showing up for the opening gala in tights with holes and super short, studded quilt jacket didn’t really make the whole event any more lively.”

You can read the entire artice, our good read of today, here.

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By Jakob

Cold Palace: How Karl Lagerfeld resides in Paris

Silverback Karl Lagerfeld finished his Paris apartment after a renovation phase that lasted two and a half years – or well, he had others finish it of course.

That’s why, full of fatherly pride, he invited design and architecture magazine “Architectural Digest” to take a few photos – and now we get to catch a glimpse at the ice cold living reality of the CHANEL designer.

When we first saw this we directly felt a very, very cold shiver that culminated in full body goose bump action we still haven’t been able to shake off. It feels like death knocking at your door. Not nice.

His crib looks like one of those horrendously cold design hotels where you sleep like shit. Or like the show-off wanna be intimidating ad agency of a random cocaine addict. Or just like the sterile sleeping laboratory of a star designer alienated from humanity who rests his mighty pony tail at this place.

(more…)

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By Jakob

Look du Jour – 84

Frisch zurückgekehrt von der amerikanischen Westküste, fühle ich mich nach wie vor und vor allem ziemlich grundlos ein wenig Gangster-Rapper-mäßig.

Mein Outfit dieser Tage: Tupac-Latzhose von DICKIES, rote Basketballschuhe von K1X, ein Südstaaten-Bandana, das ich in Venice Beach einem Luden abgeknöpft habe, eine gestreifte Cap von KENZO, ein T-Shirt von LUISA VIA ROMA und reichlich halbbilliger Goldschmuck.

Der Look erinnert, wenn ich die verschiedenen Schmähungen richtig deute, an eine Mischung aus einem Handwerker aus den späten 1990ern, eine aggressive Lesbe – und eben Tupac Shakur. Mit zwei der Zuschreibungen bin ich hochzufrieden, den Rest ignoriere ich galant und sage lässig: Yo, what up, yo!? (more…)

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